---
title: "Jauch's Selection: A Rosé Built for the Table"
type: "News"
locale: "en"
url: "https://longbridge.com/en/news/285959198.md"
description: "Gosset, the oldest Champagne house, presents the Célébris Rosé 2009, a unique prestige rosé that defies typical flavor profiles. Sourced from 99% external grapes, the wine reflects a commitment to quality and tradition, with a focus on flavor over production targets. The 2009 vintage, marked by warmth, showcases a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, crafted to be dry and elegant. Gosset's decision to release this wine exclusively as a rosé highlights its dedication to representing its distinctive style."
datetime: "2026-05-11T14:17:26.000Z"
locales:
  - [zh-CN](https://longbridge.com/zh-CN/news/285959198.md)
  - [en](https://longbridge.com/en/news/285959198.md)
  - [zh-HK](https://longbridge.com/zh-HK/news/285959198.md)
---

# Jauch's Selection: A Rosé Built for the Table

Mention rosé to most wine lovers and a familiar set of flavor associations tends to surface – sweet and lush, or fresh and berry-forward. The Célébris Rosé 2009 fits neither description.

This is a prestige Champagne from the oldest wine house in the appellation. A rosé built on a powerful wine foundation – one that earns its place at the table. More on that shortly.

**A Warm and Generous Vintage**

The 2009 vintage in Champagne was warm, despite some challenges along the way. Ripeness and substance were well expressed in the grapes. But in years like this, what happens in the cellar matters just as much as what happens in the vineyard. At Gosset, that responsibility has rested with **Odilon de Varine** as cellar master for nearly two decades.

**Tradition and a Very Current Business Model**

Gosset is widely recognized as Champagne's oldest wine house. For the brand, 2009 was also a pivotal year organizationally: just before harvest, the house relocated to a new home in Épernay. The move was made possible by acquiring a fully equipped property from **Laurent-Perrier** – originally obtained through its purchase of Château Malakoff.

**Bernard de Nonancourt**, who shaped Laurent-Perrier until his death in 2010, had hoped a family-run Champagne house would take over the estate. Gosset fit that vision on multiple levels. The existing facilities in Aÿ had long since reached capacity, and Gosset had been under the management of the Renaud-Cointreau/Cointreau family since 1993/1994.

**When the Price of Grapes Matters**

From a business perspective, Gosset is unusually candid about one aspect of its operation: roughly 99 percent of its grapes are purchased from outside growers, as the house makes clear during tours of its Épernay facilities. With grape prices ranging between eight and 14 euros per kilogram, that represents a substantial investment at every harvest. Producing a single bottle requires 1.4 kilograms of grapes – meaning annual production demands at least 1.4 million kilograms.

The fact that Gosset owns almost no vineyards today is partly a consequence of ownership transitions over the years, during which vineyard holdings were gradually lost. This pattern recurs across Champagne when brands change hands and the focus shifts to land rather than house identity. It is not a flaw – but it changes the task entirely. Quality is no longer built on one's own parcels. It depends on selection, supplier relationships, continuity with grower families, and the ability to construct a recognizable style from purchased fruit.

_  
Dryness and clarity make the Célébris Rosé 2009 a natural companion at the table. (Image: Courtesy)_

**Two Voices That Define the Style**

At Gosset, this work carries two names. Odilon de Varine leads the house as cellar master and managing director. **Pierre de Caffarelli** has worked alongside him for nearly a year as head of oenology. Following a tour of the Épernay facilities that concluded with a tasting, both spoke in ways that sounded less like marketing copy and more like craft and clear division of roles.

Odilon's logic was straightforward: at Gosset, the conversation rarely starts with percentage targets. The goal is flavor recognition – the numbers follow from getting the taste right.

He was equally clear about what rosé should be: fine, elegant, easy to drink. The color of the rosé is secondary. That is one reason all post-blending tastings take place using black glasses. A consistent flavor profile is the benchmark for the base range rosés.

Pierre focused on a point that is frequently underestimated but strongly shapes rosé Champagne's character: Gosset produces rosé as a blend incorporating its own red wine, rather than through the maceration or saignée method. And he added the sentence that is, in some ways, the key to this article: rosé may be fruity – but please, not only fruity.

**Why It Exists Only as a Rosé**

Gosset releases the Célébris 2009 exclusively as a rosé. No blanc alongside it, no second variant. That is rare – and precisely what makes it interesting. It reflects a deliberate decision: in the best years, to create only what best represents the Gosset style.

The parameters are straightforward – and yet they explain remarkably well why the Célébris Rosé 2009 shows the way it does in the glass. Seventy percent Chardonnay, 30 percent Pinot Noir, nine percent red wine from Bouzy and Cumières, and a dosage of three grams per liter, placing it firmly in extra brut territory. This architecture keeps the Champagne dry and gives it a clean line – meaning it does not rely on the quick apéritif effect, but genuinely makes sense at the table.

On the palate, red fruit takes a back seat to precise contour – one that becomes even more expressive with a few degrees of temperature. Serve it cold but not ice-cold, and it quickly becomes clear that this wine was made for a set table: a place where Champagne is not only meant to refresh, but to carry a dish.

**Time, Not Oak**

One observation from the tasting is worth highlighting, because it is so often misread. Many people interpret mature Champagne as «oak.» Pierre's formulation was memorable: what some take for oak is often simply time.

**Food: Seafood – and Why Scallops with Coffee Sauce Are a Real Test**

Seafood was named as the natural partner. But the pairing that lingers is scallops with coffee sauce. The combination sounds like contrast – and it is an honest test. If a rosé Champagne can carry that without turning sweet or metallic, while staying clean throughout, it has crossed a threshold: it is no longer «rosé for the moment.» It is wine.

Three pairings that work particularly well:

… Tuna (tataki or tartare): salt, protein, dryness.  
… Poultry with roasted notes: poularde, mushroom, a hint of citrus.  
… Charcuterie: air-dried, elegantly spiced, not heavy.

* * *

**Enjoyment Tool**

… Temperature: Do not start ice-cold. Around 10 degrees Celsius is where it shows best; a few degrees gained in the glass do it good.  
… Glass: No flute. A tulip glass or a small red wine glass – so it remains wine, not just bubbles.  
… Timing: The first glass is the introduction. After a few minutes, it settles and becomes cleaner and clearer.

A note for Switzerland: **Martel Weine** will carry and present the Célébris Rosé 2009 in Switzerland in the fall of 2026.

**Jauch's Conclusion**

The Célébris Rosé 2009 is not a rosé that tries to win on red fruit alone. It works through dryness, clarity, and food. And it is a strong example of what a house like Gosset – sourcing almost everything externally – must deliver: selection, relationships, and consistency in the cellar. Or, to borrow Odilon's logic: the percentages are not the goal. They are the result of getting the flavor right.

* * *

_«Jauch's Selection»: The biweekly finews column in which **Peter Jauch** precisely classifies Champagne and other fine beverages and supplements them with practical service advice._

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