<p>朱迪·福斯特、比莉·帕金斯和罗伯特·德尼罗在 1976 年马丁·斯科塞斯执导的《出租车司机》中表演了一场戏，地点在纽约。</p>
<p>Michael Ochs Archives | Moviepix | Getty Images</p>
<p>在加利福尼亚淘金热的最后日子里，一位当地矿工的妻子面临一个问题。</p>
<p>她丈夫的牛仔工作裤总是撕裂，于是她的裁缝雅各布·戴维斯想到了在关键的受力点，比如口袋角和扣子底部，添加铜铆钉，以防止它们撕裂。</p>
<p>戴维斯的 “铆钉裤” 很快就取得了巨大的成功，而他当时并不知道，这标志着蓝色牛仔裤的正式诞生，这种服装将改变时尚，并在全球范围内代表美国。</p>
<p>“它确实使美国时尚民主化，也是我们送往世界的最大出口，因为人们特别将牛仔裤与美国西部文化联系在一起，” 纽约时装技术学院的时尚教授肖恩·格雷恩·卡特说。“无论你的经济或社会阶层如何，无论你在政治光谱上的观点如何，每个人都穿牛仔布。”</p>
<p>雅各布·戴维斯</p>
<p>版权所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
<p>如今，牛仔布是大大小小零售商的主要销售驱动力，根据市场研究公司 Euromonitor International 的数据，全球牛仔布市场今年达到了 1010 亿美元，比 2020 年增长了 28%。从美国鹰到 Levi Strauss 的主要服装公司都在争夺这个市场，依靠悉尼·斯威尼和碧昂丝等一线明星来吸引消费者并在不稳定的经济中推动销售。</p>
<p>但如果没有 Levi Strauss，这位以其名字命名的牛仔裤公司的创始人，戴维斯的发明可能不会超出 1870 年代早期在铁路城镇创造的范围。</p>
<h2>Levi's 如何创造蓝色牛仔裤</h2>
<p>在戴维斯创造了他的铆钉裤后，称为 “腰部整体裤” 或 “整体裤”，它们开始像 “热蛋糕” 一样畅销，他需要一个商业伙伴来确保专利，Levi's 内部历史学家特雷西·潘克说。因此，他写信给施特劳斯，这位出生于巴伐利亚的移民在旧金山经营着一家成功的批发业务，并为戴维斯提供了他用来制作铆钉裤的牛仔布。</p>
<p>“这些裤子的秘密在于我放在口袋里的铆钉，我发现需求如此之大，以至于我无法快速制作它们，” 戴维斯在给施特劳斯的信中写道，PBS 报道。</p>
<p>Levi Strauss</p>
<p>版权所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
<p>施特劳斯是一位 “精明” 的商人，他意识到了这个机会，并同意与戴维斯合作，潘克说。</p>
<p>“这将是 Levi 第一次真正制造自己的产品，” 潘克说。“他不再只是进口和销售其他人的商品。他自己制造并销售给零售商。”</p>
<p>1873 年 5 月 20 日，两人获得了铆钉裤的专利，并最终在旧金山金融区靠近现代 Salesforce 大厦的弗里蒙特街开设了一家工厂。</p>
<p>他们承诺为工人提供市场上最耐用的牛仔裤，生意很快就蒸蒸日上。</p>
<h2>牛仔牧场的服装与美国工人</h2>
<p>通过施特劳斯作为批发商的关系，公司生产的铆钉整体裤很快在美国各地传播，成为各地工人首选的服装：矿工、牛仔、农民——任何需要耐用服装的角色。</p>
<p>当时，牛仔裤专门用于工作场合，但随着新兴的牛仔布制造商争夺类似的客户群，他们开始寻求扩展产品种类以推动销售。</p>
<p>“随着 20 世纪的逐步推进，你开始看到一些制造商制作变种，” 纽约市的时尚历史学家索尼娅·阿布雷戈说。“有一种设计叫做春底裤，比较合身，更加正式，稍微喇叭形，可能是工厂领班会穿的，而不是仅仅是车间里的工人。”</p>
<p>1934 年，Levi 推出了首个女性牛仔裤系列。大约在那个时候，牛仔布开始在工作之外的场合变得更加流行，主要用于牛仔牧场度假、露营和骑马等活动。</p>
<p>“所以他们有点像是牛仔的服装或工人的服装，但在度假场合穿着，” 阿布雷戈说。</p>
<p>版权所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
<p>牛仔牧场度假因国家各地的高速公路连接而变得流行，而在战争期间，几乎没有人愿意前往欧洲。像 Levi 这样的公司开始发布广告，强调他们的牛仔布是 “牛仔牧场服装” 和 “正宗西部骑行服”，以吸引寻找牛仔裤的购物者，带着它们去度假，根据当时的档案广告。</p>
<p>这些文化时刻帮助将牛仔布扩展到工人之外，但牛仔裤直到第二次世界大战后才成为普遍的休闲服装，当时美国时尚整体开始发生变化。</p>
<h2>后院烧烤的兴起</h2>
<p>到第二次世界大战结束时，强大的美国消费者开始崭露头角。多年来，美国人被迫对橡胶、糖和肉类等常见商品进行配给，同时被鼓励通过购买战争债券和存钱来节省资金。</p>
<p>当国家从战时转向和平时期时，美国人准备好大肆消费，开始在新车、电器和衣物上花费巨资。</p>
<p>“随着可支配收入的增加，你开始看到对休闲服装、趣味服装和玩乐服装的更大需求，适合在后院烧烤时穿的衣服，” 阿布雷戈说。“我们今天认为的休闲风格的衣服。”</p>
<p>版权所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
<p>慢慢地，越来越多的男女在工作场合之外穿牛仔裤变得更加可接受。然后，牛仔布制造商开始推动在学校允许穿牛仔裤。</p>
<p>“他们想要尽可能多地销售给人们，” 阿布雷戈说。“牛仔裤适合上学的想法意味着它们适合每天穿。”</p>
<p>到 1960 年代，牛仔布制造商已经扩展了他们的产品，销售各种颜色、款式和剪裁。它成为嬉皮士运动的象征，并在好莱坞片场中成为常见服饰。</p>
<p>很快，牛仔布无处不在，1970 年代带来了标志性的喇叭裤和 “设计师牛仔裤” 的首次出现——由与工作服或西部服装无关的品牌和标签生产的牛仔裤，如 Calvin Klein 和 Gloria Vanderbilt。</p>
<p>从那时起，牛仔布在全球时尚中一直保持不变。尽管轮廓、洗水和剪裁随着时间而变化，但牛仔裤从未真正过时，这正是它们如此持久的原因，阿布雷戈说。</p>
<p>“这是 1873 年的设计……我们在街上还能看到其他来自 1873 年的东西吗？如果从这个角度考虑，这有点疯狂，” 阿布雷戈说。“我们可以谈论所有的细节、制造过程中的所有变化以及各种不同的剪裁和处理，但它仍然是一个可识别的东西，它仍然是一条牛仔裤。作为历史学家，对我来说，这种连续性是如此引人注目，因为我真的无法说出还有什么东西在这个程度上保持不变。”</p>

LEVI

美国鹰

<p>这篇文章探讨了牛仔布的历史，起源于雅各布·戴维斯和利维·斯特劳斯在 1873 年创造的铆钉裤，这一创作演变成了标志性的美国蓝色牛仔裤。牛仔布已成为全球时尚的必备品，2023 年的市场价值达到 1010 亿美元。像利维·斯特劳斯和美国鹰这样的主要品牌利用名人代言来争夺市场份额。牛仔布的普遍吸引力超越了社会和经济阶层，象征着美国文化在全球的影响</p>

<p>Jodie Foster, Billie Perkins, and Robert De Niro perform a scene in Taxi Driver directed by Martin Scorsese in 1976 in New York, New York.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>朱迪·福斯特、比莉·帕金斯和罗伯特·德尼罗在 1976 年马丁·斯科塞斯执导的《出租车司机》中表演了一场戏，地点在纽约。</p>
</div><p>Michael Ochs Archives | Moviepix | Getty Images</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Michael Ochs Archives | Moviepix | Getty Images</p>
</div><p>In the dwindling days of the California gold rush, the wife of a local miner faced a problem.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在加利福尼亚淘金热的最后日子里，一位当地矿工的妻子面临一个问题。</p>
</div><p>Her husband's denim work pants kept ripping, so her tailor, Jacob Davis, had the idea to add copper rivets to key points of strain, like the pocket corners and the base of the button fly, to keep them from tearing.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>她丈夫的牛仔工作裤总是撕裂，于是她的裁缝雅各布·戴维斯想到了在关键的受力点，比如口袋角和扣子底部，添加铜铆钉，以防止它们撕裂。</p>
</div><p>Davis' &#34;riveted pants&#34; soon became a roaring success and, unbeknownst to him at the time, marked the official birth of the blue jean, a garment that would transform fashion and come to represent the United States around the globe.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>戴维斯的 “铆钉裤” 很快就取得了巨大的成功，而他当时并不知道，这标志着蓝色牛仔裤的正式诞生，这种服装将改变时尚，并在全球范围内代表美国。</p>
</div><p>&#34;It really has democratized American fashion and it also is the greatest export that we have sent to the world, because people identify jeans specifically with American Western culture,&#34; said Shawn Grain Carter, a fashion professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. &#34;It doesn't matter your economic or social class. It doesn't matter what your views are in terms of the political spectrum. Everybody wears denim.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“它确实使美国时尚民主化，也是我们送往世界的最大出口，因为人们特别将牛仔裤与美国西部文化联系在一起，” 纽约时装技术学院的时尚教授肖恩·格雷恩·卡特说。“无论你的经济或社会阶层如何，无论你在政治光谱上的观点如何，每个人都穿牛仔布。”</p>
</div><p>Jacob Davis</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>雅各布·戴维斯</p>
</div><p>Courtesy: Levi Strauss &amp; Co.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>版权所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
</div><p>These days, denim is a major sales driver for retailers big and small, as the global denim market reached $101 billion this year, up 28% from 2020, according to data from market research company Euromonitor International. Major apparel companies from American Eagle to Levi Strauss are in a race to corner that market, leaning on A-list celebrities like Sydney Sweeney and Beyonce to win over shoppers and drive sales in an unsteady economy.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>如今，牛仔布是大大小小零售商的主要销售驱动力，根据市场研究公司 Euromonitor International 的数据，全球牛仔布市场今年达到了 1010 亿美元，比 2020 年增长了 28%。从美国鹰到 Levi Strauss 的主要服装公司都在争夺这个市场，依靠悉尼·斯威尼和碧昂丝等一线明星来吸引消费者并在不稳定的经济中推动销售。</p>
</div><p>But if it weren't for Levi Strauss, founder of the eponymous blue jeans company, Davis' invention may not have gone far beyond the railroad town where it was created in the early 1870s.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>但如果没有 Levi Strauss，这位以其名字命名的牛仔裤公司的创始人，戴维斯的发明可能不会超出 1870 年代早期在铁路城镇创造的范围。</p>
</div><h2>How Levi's created blue jeans</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Levi's 如何创造蓝色牛仔裤</h2>
</div><p>Soon after Davis created his riveted pants, called &#34;waist overalls&#34; or &#34;overalls&#34; at the time, they began selling like &#34;hot cakes&#34; and he needed a business partner to secure a patent, said Tracey Panek, Levi's in-house historian. So he wrote to Strauss, a Bavarian-born immigrant who was running a successful wholesale business in San Francisco and had supplied Davis the denim he used to create his riveted pants.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在戴维斯创造了他的铆钉裤后，称为 “腰部整体裤” 或 “整体裤”，它们开始像 “热蛋糕” 一样畅销，他需要一个商业伙伴来确保专利，Levi's 内部历史学家特雷西·潘克说。因此，他写信给施特劳斯，这位出生于巴伐利亚的移民在旧金山经营着一家成功的批发业务，并为戴维斯提供了他用来制作铆钉裤的牛仔布。</p>
</div><p>&#34;The secret of them Pents is the Rivits that I put in those Pockets and I found the demand so large that I cannot make them up fast enough,&#34; Davis wrote Strauss in a letter, according to PBS.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“这些裤子的秘密在于我放在口袋里的铆钉，我发现需求如此之大，以至于我无法快速制作它们，” 戴维斯在给施特劳斯的信中写道，PBS 报道。</p>
</div><p>Levi Strauss</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Levi Strauss</p>
</div><p>Courtesy: Levi Strauss &amp; Co.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>版权所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
</div><p>Strauss, an &#34;astute&#34; businessman, recognized the opportunity and agreed to partner with Davis, said Panek.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>施特劳斯是一位 “精明” 的商人，他意识到了这个机会，并同意与戴维斯合作，潘克说。</p>
</div><p>&#34;This would have been the first time that Levi was actually&#34; manufacturing his own products, said Panek. &#34;He was no longer just importing and selling other people's goods. He was manufacturing himself and selling to retailers.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“这将是 Levi 第一次真正制造自己的产品，” 潘克说。“他不再只是进口和销售其他人的商品。他自己制造并销售给零售商。”</p>
</div><p>On May 20, 1873, the two men secured a patent for the riveted pants and eventually opened a factory on Fremont Street, close to the modern-day Salesforce tower in San Francisco's financial district.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>1873 年 5 月 20 日，两人获得了铆钉裤的专利，并最终在旧金山金融区靠近现代 Salesforce 大厦的弗里蒙特街开设了一家工厂。</p>
</div><p>They promised to offer workers the most durable jeans on the market and soon, business was booming.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>他们承诺为工人提供市场上最耐用的牛仔裤，生意很快就蒸蒸日上。</p>
</div><h2>Dude ranch duds and the American worker</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>牛仔牧场的服装与美国工人</h2>
</div><p>Through Strauss' connections as a wholesaler, the company's riveted overalls soon spread across the U.S., becoming the garment of choice for working men everywhere: miners, cowboys, farmers – any role that required durable clothing.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>通过施特劳斯作为批发商的关系，公司生产的铆钉整体裤很快在美国各地传播，成为各地工人首选的服装：矿工、牛仔、农民——任何需要耐用服装的角色。</p>
</div><p>Jeans were exclusively reserved for work settings at the time, but as emerging denim manufacturers vied for a similar customer base, they looked to expand their assortment to drive sales.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>当时，牛仔裤专门用于工作场合，但随着新兴的牛仔布制造商争夺类似的客户群，他们开始寻求扩展产品种类以推动销售。</p>
</div><p>&#34;Slowly and steadily into the 20th century, you start to see some of these manufacturers making variations,&#34; said Sonya Abrego, a New York City-based fashion historian. &#34;There was this one design called spring bottom pants that was kind of a more form fitted, a more dressed up, a slightly flared, maybe what the factory foreman would be wearing, right? As opposed to just the guy on the shop floor.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“随着 20 世纪的逐步推进，你开始看到一些制造商制作变种，” 纽约市的时尚历史学家索尼娅·阿布雷戈说。“有一种设计叫做春底裤，比较合身，更加正式，稍微喇叭形，可能是工厂领班会穿的，而不是仅仅是车间里的工人。”</p>
</div><p>In 1934, Levi created the first ever line of jeans for women. Around that time, denim started to become more popular in settings outside of work, primarily for activities like dude ranch vacations, camping and horseback riding.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>1934 年，Levi 推出了首个女性牛仔裤系列。大约在那个时候，牛仔布开始在工作之外的场合变得更加流行，主要用于牛仔牧场度假、露营和骑马等活动。</p>
</div><p>&#34;So they were kind of taking on a cowboy's garment or a worker's garment but wearing it in a … resort setting,&#34; said Abrego.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“所以他们有点像是牛仔的服装或工人的服装，但在度假场合穿着，” 阿布雷戈说。</p>
</div><p>Courtesy: Levi Strauss &amp; Co.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>版权所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
</div><p>Dude ranch vacations had become popular because there were finally highways connecting different parts of the country, and few were willing to venture to Europe during a war. Companies like Levi began releasing advertisements highlighting their denim as &#34;dude ranch duds&#34; and &#34;authentic western riding wear&#34; to capture shoppers looking for jeans to bring with them on vacation, according to archival advertisements from the time.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>牛仔牧场度假因国家各地的高速公路连接而变得流行，而在战争期间，几乎没有人愿意前往欧洲。像 Levi 这样的公司开始发布广告，强调他们的牛仔布是 “牛仔牧场服装” 和 “正宗西部骑行服”，以吸引寻找牛仔裤的购物者，带着它们去度假，根据当时的档案广告。</p>
</div><p>These cultural moments helped to expand denim beyond workers, but jeans didn't become widespread casual attire until after World War II, when American fashion overall started to shift.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这些文化时刻帮助将牛仔布扩展到工人之外，但牛仔裤直到第二次世界大战后才成为普遍的休闲服装，当时美国时尚整体开始发生变化。</p>
</div><h2>The rise of the backyard BBQ</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>后院烧烤的兴起</h2>
</div><p>By the time World War II ended, the mighty American consumer was beginning to emerge. For years, Americans had been forced to ration common goods like rubber, sugar and meat while simultaneously being encouraged to save their money by buying war bonds and socking away spare cash.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>到第二次世界大战结束时，强大的美国消费者开始崭露头角。多年来，美国人被迫对橡胶、糖和肉类等常见商品进行配给，同时被鼓励通过购买战争债券和存钱来节省资金。</p>
</div><p>When the country shifted from wartime to peacetime, Americans were ready to splurge and soon began spending big on new cars, appliances and clothes.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>当国家从战时转向和平时期时，美国人准备好大肆消费，开始在新车、电器和衣物上花费巨资。</p>
</div><p>&#34;With a little bit more money to spend, you start seeing a bigger push for leisure clothes and fun clothes and play clothes, clothes to wear to backyard barbecues,&#34; said Abrego. &#34;Clothes that we would consider today as just like casual style.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“随着可支配收入的增加，你开始看到对休闲服装、趣味服装和玩乐服装的更大需求，适合在后院烧烤时穿的衣服，” 阿布雷戈说。“我们今天认为的休闲风格的衣服。”</p>
</div><p>Courtesy: Levi Strauss &amp; Co.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>版权所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
</div><p>Slowly and surely, it became more and more acceptable for both men and women to wear jeans outside of work settings. Then, denim manufacturers made a push to allow jeans in schools.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>慢慢地，越来越多的男女在工作场合之外穿牛仔裤变得更加可接受。然后，牛仔布制造商开始推动在学校允许穿牛仔裤。</p>
</div><p>&#34;They wanted to sell to as many people as they possibly could,&#34; said Abrego. &#34;The idea that jeans are good for school means that they're good for every day.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“他们想要尽可能多地销售给人们，” 阿布雷戈说。“牛仔裤适合上学的想法意味着它们适合每天穿。”</p>
</div><p>By the time the 1960s hit, denim manufacturers had expanded their products and were selling a wide variety of colors, fits and styles. It became a symbol of the hippie movement and a mainstay on Hollywood sets.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>到 1960 年代，牛仔布制造商已经扩展了他们的产品，销售各种颜色、款式和剪裁。它成为嬉皮士运动的象征，并在好莱坞片场中成为常见服饰。</p>
</div><p>Soon, denim was everywhere, and the 1970s brought the iconic bell bottom pants and the first iteration of the &#34;designer jean&#34; — denim pants being produced by labels and brands whose designs had nothing to do with work wear or western wear, like Calvin Klein and Gloria Vanderbilt.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>很快，牛仔布无处不在，1970 年代带来了标志性的喇叭裤和 “设计师牛仔裤” 的首次出现——由与工作服或西部服装无关的品牌和标签生产的牛仔裤，如 Calvin Klein 和 Gloria Vanderbilt。</p>
</div><p>Since then, denim has remained a constant in global fashion. While silhouettes, washes and fits have changed over time, jeans never really go out of style, which is what makes them so enduring, said Abrego.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>从那时起，牛仔布在全球时尚中一直保持不变。尽管轮廓、洗水和剪裁随着时间而变化，但牛仔裤从未真正过时，这正是它们如此持久的原因，阿布雷戈说。</p>
</div><p>&#34;This is a design from 1873 … do we see anything else from 1873 on the street? It's kind of wild if you think about it that way,&#34; said Abrego. &#34;We can talk about all the details, all the changes in manufacturing and all the different fits and finishes but it's a recognizable thing, it's still a pair of jeans. For me as a historian, that continuity is so compelling because I can't really name anything else that has stayed the same to this degree.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“这是 1873 年的设计……我们在街上还能看到其他来自 1873 年的东西吗？如果从这个角度考虑，这有点疯狂，” 阿布雷戈说。“我们可以谈论所有的细节、制造过程中的所有变化以及各种不同的剪裁和处理，但它仍然是一个可识别的东西，它仍然是一条牛仔裤。作为历史学家，对我来说，这种连续性是如此引人注目，因为我真的无法说出还有什么东西在这个程度上保持不变。”</p>
</div>

从加州淘金热到 Sydney Sweeney：牛仔布是如何成为美国时尚中最持久的服装的