<p>朱迪·福斯特、比莉·帕金斯和羅伯特·德尼羅在 1976 年馬丁·斯科塞斯執導的《出租車司機》中表演了一場戲，地點在紐約。</p>
<p>Michael Ochs Archives | Moviepix | Getty Images</p>
<p>在加利福尼亞淘金熱的最後日子裏，一位當地礦工的妻子面臨一個問題。</p>
<p>她丈夫的牛仔工作褲總是撕裂，於是她的裁縫雅各布·戴維斯想到了在關鍵的受力點，比如口袋角和釦子底部，添加銅鉚釘，以防止它們撕裂。</p>
<p>戴維斯的 “鉚釘褲” 很快就取得了巨大的成功，而他當時並不知道，這標誌着藍色牛仔褲的正式誕生，這種服裝將改變時尚，並在全球範圍內代表美國。</p>
<p>“它確實使美國時尚民主化，也是我們送往世界的最大出口，因為人們特別將牛仔褲與美國西部文化聯繫在一起，” 紐約時裝技術學院的時尚教授肖恩·格雷恩·卡特説。“無論你的經濟或社會階層如何，無論你在政治光譜上的觀點如何，每個人都穿牛仔布。”</p>
<p>雅各布·戴維斯</p>
<p>版權所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
<p>如今，牛仔布是大大小小零售商的主要銷售驅動力，根據市場研究公司 Euromonitor International 的數據，全球牛仔布市場今年達到了 1010 億美元，比 2020 年增長了 28%。從美國鷹到 Levi Strauss 的主要服裝公司都在爭奪這個市場，依靠悉尼·斯威尼和碧昂絲等一線明星來吸引消費者並在不穩定的經濟中推動銷售。</p>
<p>但如果沒有 Levi Strauss，這位以其名字命名的牛仔褲公司的創始人，戴維斯的發明可能不會超出 1870 年代早期在鐵路城鎮創造的範圍。</p>
<h2>Levi's 如何創造藍色牛仔褲</h2>
<p>在戴維斯創造了他的鉚釘褲後，稱為 “腰部整體褲” 或 “整體褲”，它們開始像 “熱蛋糕” 一樣暢銷，他需要一個商業夥伴來確保專利，Levi's 內部歷史學家特雷西·潘克説。因此，他寫信給施特勞斯，這位出生於巴伐利亞的移民在舊金山經營着一家成功的批發業務，併為戴維斯提供了他用來製作鉚釘褲的牛仔布。</p>
<p>“這些褲子的秘密在於我放在口袋裏的鉚釘，我發現需求如此之大，以至於我無法快速製作它們，” 戴維斯在給施特勞斯的信中寫道，PBS 報道。</p>
<p>Levi Strauss</p>
<p>版權所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
<p>施特勞斯是一位 “精明” 的商人，他意識到了這個機會，並同意與戴維斯合作，潘克説。</p>
<p>“這將是 Levi 第一次真正製造自己的產品，” 潘克説。“他不再只是進口和銷售其他人的商品。他自己製造並銷售給零售商。”</p>
<p>1873 年 5 月 20 日，兩人獲得了鉚釘褲的專利，並最終在舊金山金融區靠近現代 Salesforce 大廈的弗裏蒙特街開設了一家工廠。</p>
<p>他們承諾為工人提供市場上最耐用的牛仔褲，生意很快就蒸蒸日上。</p>
<h2>牛仔牧場的服裝與美國工人</h2>
<p>通過施特勞斯作為批發商的關係，公司生產的鉚釘整體褲很快在美國各地傳播，成為各地工人首選的服裝：礦工、牛仔、農民——任何需要耐用服裝的角色。</p>
<p>當時，牛仔褲專門用於工作場合，但隨着新興的牛仔布製造商爭奪類似的客户羣，他們開始尋求擴展產品種類以推動銷售。</p>
<p>“隨着 20 世紀的逐步推進，你開始看到一些製造商製作變種，” 紐約市的時尚歷史學家索尼婭·阿布雷戈説。“有一種設計叫做春底褲，比較合身，更加正式，稍微喇叭形，可能是工廠領班會穿的，而不是僅僅是車間裏的工人。”</p>
<p>1934 年，Levi 推出了首個女性牛仔褲系列。大約在那個時候，牛仔布開始在工作之外的場合變得更加流行，主要用於牛仔牧場度假、露營和騎馬等活動。</p>
<p>“所以他們有點像是牛仔的服裝或工人的服裝，但在度假場合穿着，” 阿布雷戈説。</p>
<p>版權所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
<p>牛仔牧場度假因國家各地的高速公路連接而變得流行，而在戰爭期間，幾乎沒有人願意前往歐洲。像 Levi 這樣的公司開始發佈廣告，強調他們的牛仔布是 “牛仔牧場服裝” 和 “正宗西部騎行服”，以吸引尋找牛仔褲的購物者，帶着它們去度假，根據當時的檔案廣告。</p>
<p>這些文化時刻幫助將牛仔布擴展到工人之外，但牛仔褲直到第二次世界大戰後才成為普遍的休閒服裝，當時美國時尚整體開始發生變化。</p>
<h2>後院燒烤的興起</h2>
<p>到第二次世界大戰結束時，強大的美國消費者開始嶄露頭角。多年來，美國人被迫對橡膠、糖和肉類等常見商品進行配給，同時被鼓勵通過購買戰爭債券和存錢來節省資金。</p>
<p>當國家從戰時轉向和平時期時，美國人準備好大肆消費，開始在新車、電器和衣物上花費巨資。</p>
<p>“隨着可支配收入的增加，你開始看到對休閒服裝、趣味服裝和玩樂服裝的更大需求，適合在後院燒烤時穿的衣服，” 阿布雷戈説。“我們今天認為的休閒風格的衣服。”</p>
<p>版權所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
<p>慢慢地，越來越多的男女在工作場合之外穿牛仔褲變得更加可接受。然後，牛仔布製造商開始推動在學校允許穿牛仔褲。</p>
<p>“他們想要儘可能多地銷售給人們，” 阿布雷戈説。“牛仔褲適合上學的想法意味着它們適合每天穿。”</p>
<p>到 1960 年代，牛仔布製造商已經擴展了他們的產品，銷售各種顏色、款式和剪裁。它成為嬉皮士運動的象徵，並在好萊塢片場中成為常見服飾。</p>
<p>很快，牛仔布無處不在，1970 年代帶來了標誌性的喇叭褲和 “設計師牛仔褲” 的首次出現——由與工作服或西部服裝無關的品牌和標籤生產的牛仔褲，如 Calvin Klein 和 Gloria Vanderbilt。</p>
<p>從那時起，牛仔布在全球時尚中一直保持不變。儘管輪廓、洗水和剪裁隨着時間而變化，但牛仔褲從未真正過時，這正是它們如此持久的原因，阿布雷戈説。</p>
<p>“這是 1873 年的設計……我們在街上還能看到其他來自 1873 年的東西嗎？如果從這個角度考慮，這有點瘋狂，” 阿布雷戈説。“我們可以談論所有的細節、製造過程中的所有變化以及各種不同的剪裁和處理，但它仍然是一個可識別的東西，它仍然是一條牛仔褲。作為歷史學家，對我來説，這種連續性是如此引人注目，因為我真的無法説出還有什麼東西在這個程度上保持不變。”</p>

LEVI

美國鷹

<p>這篇文章探討了牛仔布的歷史，起源於雅各布·戴維斯和利維·斯特勞斯在 1873 年創造的鉚釘褲，這一創作演變成了標誌性的美國藍色牛仔褲。牛仔布已成為全球時尚的必備品，2023 年的市場價值達到 1010 億美元。像利維·斯特勞斯和美國鷹這樣的主要品牌利用名人代言來爭奪市場份額。牛仔布的普遍吸引力超越了社會和經濟階層，象徵着美國文化在全球的影響</p>

<p>Jodie Foster, Billie Perkins, and Robert De Niro perform a scene in Taxi Driver directed by Martin Scorsese in 1976 in New York, New York.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>朱迪·福斯特、比莉·帕金斯和羅伯特·德尼羅在 1976 年馬丁·斯科塞斯執導的《出租車司機》中表演了一場戲，地點在紐約。</p>
</div><p>Michael Ochs Archives | Moviepix | Getty Images</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Michael Ochs Archives | Moviepix | Getty Images</p>
</div><p>In the dwindling days of the California gold rush, the wife of a local miner faced a problem.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在加利福尼亞淘金熱的最後日子裏，一位當地礦工的妻子面臨一個問題。</p>
</div><p>Her husband's denim work pants kept ripping, so her tailor, Jacob Davis, had the idea to add copper rivets to key points of strain, like the pocket corners and the base of the button fly, to keep them from tearing.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>她丈夫的牛仔工作褲總是撕裂，於是她的裁縫雅各布·戴維斯想到了在關鍵的受力點，比如口袋角和釦子底部，添加銅鉚釘，以防止它們撕裂。</p>
</div><p>Davis' &#34;riveted pants&#34; soon became a roaring success and, unbeknownst to him at the time, marked the official birth of the blue jean, a garment that would transform fashion and come to represent the United States around the globe.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>戴維斯的 “鉚釘褲” 很快就取得了巨大的成功，而他當時並不知道，這標誌着藍色牛仔褲的正式誕生，這種服裝將改變時尚，並在全球範圍內代表美國。</p>
</div><p>&#34;It really has democratized American fashion and it also is the greatest export that we have sent to the world, because people identify jeans specifically with American Western culture,&#34; said Shawn Grain Carter, a fashion professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. &#34;It doesn't matter your economic or social class. It doesn't matter what your views are in terms of the political spectrum. Everybody wears denim.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“它確實使美國時尚民主化，也是我們送往世界的最大出口，因為人們特別將牛仔褲與美國西部文化聯繫在一起，” 紐約時裝技術學院的時尚教授肖恩·格雷恩·卡特説。“無論你的經濟或社會階層如何，無論你在政治光譜上的觀點如何，每個人都穿牛仔布。”</p>
</div><p>Jacob Davis</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>雅各布·戴維斯</p>
</div><p>Courtesy: Levi Strauss &amp; Co.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>版權所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
</div><p>These days, denim is a major sales driver for retailers big and small, as the global denim market reached $101 billion this year, up 28% from 2020, according to data from market research company Euromonitor International. Major apparel companies from American Eagle to Levi Strauss are in a race to corner that market, leaning on A-list celebrities like Sydney Sweeney and Beyonce to win over shoppers and drive sales in an unsteady economy.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>如今，牛仔布是大大小小零售商的主要銷售驅動力，根據市場研究公司 Euromonitor International 的數據，全球牛仔布市場今年達到了 1010 億美元，比 2020 年增長了 28%。從美國鷹到 Levi Strauss 的主要服裝公司都在爭奪這個市場，依靠悉尼·斯威尼和碧昂絲等一線明星來吸引消費者並在不穩定的經濟中推動銷售。</p>
</div><p>But if it weren't for Levi Strauss, founder of the eponymous blue jeans company, Davis' invention may not have gone far beyond the railroad town where it was created in the early 1870s.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>但如果沒有 Levi Strauss，這位以其名字命名的牛仔褲公司的創始人，戴維斯的發明可能不會超出 1870 年代早期在鐵路城鎮創造的範圍。</p>
</div><h2>How Levi's created blue jeans</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Levi's 如何創造藍色牛仔褲</h2>
</div><p>Soon after Davis created his riveted pants, called &#34;waist overalls&#34; or &#34;overalls&#34; at the time, they began selling like &#34;hot cakes&#34; and he needed a business partner to secure a patent, said Tracey Panek, Levi's in-house historian. So he wrote to Strauss, a Bavarian-born immigrant who was running a successful wholesale business in San Francisco and had supplied Davis the denim he used to create his riveted pants.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在戴維斯創造了他的鉚釘褲後，稱為 “腰部整體褲” 或 “整體褲”，它們開始像 “熱蛋糕” 一樣暢銷，他需要一個商業夥伴來確保專利，Levi's 內部歷史學家特雷西·潘克説。因此，他寫信給施特勞斯，這位出生於巴伐利亞的移民在舊金山經營着一家成功的批發業務，併為戴維斯提供了他用來製作鉚釘褲的牛仔布。</p>
</div><p>&#34;The secret of them Pents is the Rivits that I put in those Pockets and I found the demand so large that I cannot make them up fast enough,&#34; Davis wrote Strauss in a letter, according to PBS.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“這些褲子的秘密在於我放在口袋裏的鉚釘，我發現需求如此之大，以至於我無法快速製作它們，” 戴維斯在給施特勞斯的信中寫道，PBS 報道。</p>
</div><p>Levi Strauss</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Levi Strauss</p>
</div><p>Courtesy: Levi Strauss &amp; Co.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>版權所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
</div><p>Strauss, an &#34;astute&#34; businessman, recognized the opportunity and agreed to partner with Davis, said Panek.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>施特勞斯是一位 “精明” 的商人，他意識到了這個機會，並同意與戴維斯合作，潘克説。</p>
</div><p>&#34;This would have been the first time that Levi was actually&#34; manufacturing his own products, said Panek. &#34;He was no longer just importing and selling other people's goods. He was manufacturing himself and selling to retailers.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“這將是 Levi 第一次真正製造自己的產品，” 潘克説。“他不再只是進口和銷售其他人的商品。他自己製造並銷售給零售商。”</p>
</div><p>On May 20, 1873, the two men secured a patent for the riveted pants and eventually opened a factory on Fremont Street, close to the modern-day Salesforce tower in San Francisco's financial district.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>1873 年 5 月 20 日，兩人獲得了鉚釘褲的專利，並最終在舊金山金融區靠近現代 Salesforce 大廈的弗裏蒙特街開設了一家工廠。</p>
</div><p>They promised to offer workers the most durable jeans on the market and soon, business was booming.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>他們承諾為工人提供市場上最耐用的牛仔褲，生意很快就蒸蒸日上。</p>
</div><h2>Dude ranch duds and the American worker</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>牛仔牧場的服裝與美國工人</h2>
</div><p>Through Strauss' connections as a wholesaler, the company's riveted overalls soon spread across the U.S., becoming the garment of choice for working men everywhere: miners, cowboys, farmers – any role that required durable clothing.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>通過施特勞斯作為批發商的關係，公司生產的鉚釘整體褲很快在美國各地傳播，成為各地工人首選的服裝：礦工、牛仔、農民——任何需要耐用服裝的角色。</p>
</div><p>Jeans were exclusively reserved for work settings at the time, but as emerging denim manufacturers vied for a similar customer base, they looked to expand their assortment to drive sales.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>當時，牛仔褲專門用於工作場合，但隨着新興的牛仔布製造商爭奪類似的客户羣，他們開始尋求擴展產品種類以推動銷售。</p>
</div><p>&#34;Slowly and steadily into the 20th century, you start to see some of these manufacturers making variations,&#34; said Sonya Abrego, a New York City-based fashion historian. &#34;There was this one design called spring bottom pants that was kind of a more form fitted, a more dressed up, a slightly flared, maybe what the factory foreman would be wearing, right? As opposed to just the guy on the shop floor.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“隨着 20 世紀的逐步推進，你開始看到一些製造商製作變種，” 紐約市的時尚歷史學家索尼婭·阿布雷戈説。“有一種設計叫做春底褲，比較合身，更加正式，稍微喇叭形，可能是工廠領班會穿的，而不是僅僅是車間裏的工人。”</p>
</div><p>In 1934, Levi created the first ever line of jeans for women. Around that time, denim started to become more popular in settings outside of work, primarily for activities like dude ranch vacations, camping and horseback riding.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>1934 年，Levi 推出了首個女性牛仔褲系列。大約在那個時候，牛仔布開始在工作之外的場合變得更加流行，主要用於牛仔牧場度假、露營和騎馬等活動。</p>
</div><p>&#34;So they were kind of taking on a cowboy's garment or a worker's garment but wearing it in a … resort setting,&#34; said Abrego.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“所以他們有點像是牛仔的服裝或工人的服裝，但在度假場合穿着，” 阿布雷戈説。</p>
</div><p>Courtesy: Levi Strauss &amp; Co.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>版權所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
</div><p>Dude ranch vacations had become popular because there were finally highways connecting different parts of the country, and few were willing to venture to Europe during a war. Companies like Levi began releasing advertisements highlighting their denim as &#34;dude ranch duds&#34; and &#34;authentic western riding wear&#34; to capture shoppers looking for jeans to bring with them on vacation, according to archival advertisements from the time.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>牛仔牧場度假因國家各地的高速公路連接而變得流行，而在戰爭期間，幾乎沒有人願意前往歐洲。像 Levi 這樣的公司開始發佈廣告，強調他們的牛仔布是 “牛仔牧場服裝” 和 “正宗西部騎行服”，以吸引尋找牛仔褲的購物者，帶着它們去度假，根據當時的檔案廣告。</p>
</div><p>These cultural moments helped to expand denim beyond workers, but jeans didn't become widespread casual attire until after World War II, when American fashion overall started to shift.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>這些文化時刻幫助將牛仔布擴展到工人之外，但牛仔褲直到第二次世界大戰後才成為普遍的休閒服裝，當時美國時尚整體開始發生變化。</p>
</div><h2>The rise of the backyard BBQ</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>後院燒烤的興起</h2>
</div><p>By the time World War II ended, the mighty American consumer was beginning to emerge. For years, Americans had been forced to ration common goods like rubber, sugar and meat while simultaneously being encouraged to save their money by buying war bonds and socking away spare cash.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>到第二次世界大戰結束時，強大的美國消費者開始嶄露頭角。多年來，美國人被迫對橡膠、糖和肉類等常見商品進行配給，同時被鼓勵通過購買戰爭債券和存錢來節省資金。</p>
</div><p>When the country shifted from wartime to peacetime, Americans were ready to splurge and soon began spending big on new cars, appliances and clothes.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>當國家從戰時轉向和平時期時，美國人準備好大肆消費，開始在新車、電器和衣物上花費巨資。</p>
</div><p>&#34;With a little bit more money to spend, you start seeing a bigger push for leisure clothes and fun clothes and play clothes, clothes to wear to backyard barbecues,&#34; said Abrego. &#34;Clothes that we would consider today as just like casual style.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“隨着可支配收入的增加，你開始看到對休閒服裝、趣味服裝和玩樂服裝的更大需求，適合在後院燒烤時穿的衣服，” 阿布雷戈説。“我們今天認為的休閒風格的衣服。”</p>
</div><p>Courtesy: Levi Strauss &amp; Co.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>版權所有：Levi Strauss \u0026 Co.</p>
</div><p>Slowly and surely, it became more and more acceptable for both men and women to wear jeans outside of work settings. Then, denim manufacturers made a push to allow jeans in schools.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>慢慢地，越來越多的男女在工作場合之外穿牛仔褲變得更加可接受。然後，牛仔布製造商開始推動在學校允許穿牛仔褲。</p>
</div><p>&#34;They wanted to sell to as many people as they possibly could,&#34; said Abrego. &#34;The idea that jeans are good for school means that they're good for every day.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“他們想要儘可能多地銷售給人們，” 阿布雷戈説。“牛仔褲適合上學的想法意味着它們適合每天穿。”</p>
</div><p>By the time the 1960s hit, denim manufacturers had expanded their products and were selling a wide variety of colors, fits and styles. It became a symbol of the hippie movement and a mainstay on Hollywood sets.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>到 1960 年代，牛仔布製造商已經擴展了他們的產品，銷售各種顏色、款式和剪裁。它成為嬉皮士運動的象徵，並在好萊塢片場中成為常見服飾。</p>
</div><p>Soon, denim was everywhere, and the 1970s brought the iconic bell bottom pants and the first iteration of the &#34;designer jean&#34; — denim pants being produced by labels and brands whose designs had nothing to do with work wear or western wear, like Calvin Klein and Gloria Vanderbilt.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>很快，牛仔布無處不在，1970 年代帶來了標誌性的喇叭褲和 “設計師牛仔褲” 的首次出現——由與工作服或西部服裝無關的品牌和標籤生產的牛仔褲，如 Calvin Klein 和 Gloria Vanderbilt。</p>
</div><p>Since then, denim has remained a constant in global fashion. While silhouettes, washes and fits have changed over time, jeans never really go out of style, which is what makes them so enduring, said Abrego.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>從那時起，牛仔布在全球時尚中一直保持不變。儘管輪廓、洗水和剪裁隨着時間而變化，但牛仔褲從未真正過時，這正是它們如此持久的原因，阿布雷戈説。</p>
</div><p>&#34;This is a design from 1873 … do we see anything else from 1873 on the street? It's kind of wild if you think about it that way,&#34; said Abrego. &#34;We can talk about all the details, all the changes in manufacturing and all the different fits and finishes but it's a recognizable thing, it's still a pair of jeans. For me as a historian, that continuity is so compelling because I can't really name anything else that has stayed the same to this degree.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“這是 1873 年的設計……我們在街上還能看到其他來自 1873 年的東西嗎？如果從這個角度考慮，這有點瘋狂，” 阿布雷戈説。“我們可以談論所有的細節、製造過程中的所有變化以及各種不同的剪裁和處理，但它仍然是一個可識別的東西，它仍然是一條牛仔褲。作為歷史學家，對我來説，這種連續性是如此引人注目，因為我真的無法説出還有什麼東西在這個程度上保持不變。”</p>
</div>

從加州淘金熱到 Sydney Sweeney：牛仔布是如何成為美國時尚中最持久的服裝的