How old school sports brands are making a fashionable comeback, from Reebok to Fila and Kappa

南华早报
2025.11.07 22:00
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Old school sports brands like Sergio Tacchini, Fila, Reebok, Le Coq Sportif, and Kappa are experiencing a fashionable comeback. These brands, once popular in the 80s and 90s, are being rediscovered by a new generation seeking heritage styles. Tacchini's retro tracksuits, Fila's tennis and basketball heritage, Reebok's aerobics roots, and Le Coq Sportif's cycling legacy are all gaining renewed interest. Celebrity endorsements and innovative designs are helping these brands regain visibility and relevance in today's fashion landscape.

When Pete Davidson arrived at the Los Angeles premiere of his latest film, The Pickup, he did so in a Sergio Tacchini tracksuit, a look that felt both unexpected and perfectly timed.\nOnce a fixture of tennis courts and 1980s street style, the Italian label has re-emerged as part of a broader revival. Sportswear names that slipped from view are being rediscovered, their retro, preppy edge striking a chord with a new generation eager for heritage brands that get to feel fresh again.\nTacchini’s own story helps explain the pull of these revivals. Founded in Piedmont in 1966 by the former tennis pro of the same name, the brand disrupted the sport’s all-white tradition with bold colours and elegant fabrics, before expanding into golf, sailing and leisurewear. Its tracksuits became style markers in the 80s and 90s, blending Italian tailoring with athletic cool. Though the label filed for bankruptcy in 2007 and has seen several changes in ownership since then, it has been quietly regaining visibility – with Davidson’s red carpet choice underlining how Tacchini’s retro silhouettes are rediscovering relevance.\n\nTacchini isn’t alone in its return to the spotlight. Another label that was founded in Italy – Fila – followed a similar path, beginning in Biella in 1911 as a knitwear business before evolving into a leading sportswear brand. By 1973 its White Line tennis collection had broken from the sport’s strict codes with flashes of navy and red. Swedish champion Björn Borg’s run of Wimbledon titles in Fila cemented the brand’s reputation as a style disrupter, and it later found a foothold in basketball. Grant Hill’s signature trainers of the mid-1990s, especially the Grant Hill 2 memorably worn by Tupac, became defining trainers of the era, worn as much on city streets as on the basketball court. Fila’s graphic logos and oversized silhouettes also became part of hip-hop’s uniform, spotted in music videos and on stage, keeping the brand’s relevance alive.\nIn 2007, after a few leaner years, the brand was bought by its licensee Fila Korea. Today, it continues to be shaped by celebrity influence, with model and Rhode founder Hailey Bieber, named global ambassador in 2023, fronting a “tenniscore” campaign and co-designing a 13-piece capsule that reworked classics into modern staples. Rising tennis star Lulu Sun, who debuted in Fila at the 2025 Australian Open, and fellow ambassador, actress Han So-hee also keep the label in the spotlight, underscoring its cross-generational appeal. Recent releases like the chunky Disruptor II and the futuristic Echappe Silver Moon show how Fila continues to tap nostalgia while also pushing into more innovative territory.\n\nWhile Italian sportswear built its reputation on the tennis court, Reebok’s breakthrough came from a different arena altogether: the aerobics studio. Founded in Lancashire, England, in 1958, the label’s international breakthrough came in 1979 when American businessman Paul Fireman secured US distribution. Just a few years later, the Freestyle sneaker – tied to the aerobics craze and fronted by fitness pioneer Gin Miller – became a global hit and it remains in the range to this day. The 1980s also brought a new Vector logo, high-profile partnerships with American basketball player Shaquille O’Neal and quarterback Peyton Manning, and – in 2003 – a first-of-its-kind collaboration with Jay-Z. That move set a precedent for music crossovers that are now industry standard, later echoed in campaigns with Kendrick Lamar. Now owned by an American brand management group, Reebok today leans heavily on its heritage. Styles like the Club C and Reebok Classic have crossed into fashion wardrobes, worn by Sofia Richie, Emily Ratajkowski, Gigi Hadid and Margot Robbie.\n\nLike in Italy, in France heritage has its own cachet. Founded in 1882, Le Coq Sportif is one of the oldest names in sportswear, its rooster logo long a symbol of national pride. It appeared on Tour de France jerseys and French football kits throughout most of the 20th century, before fading from view in the 1990s. Over the years, tennis legends Arthur Ashe and Justine Henin – along with golfers such as Yang Yong-eun, the first Asian man to win one of the sport’s major championships – wore the brand. Today, Le Coq Sportif is linked to athletes including Lucas Pouille and Yannick Noah, while actor and model Luka Sabbat has given it fashion clout on the street style circuit. The label’s return has come through retro releases and renewed interest in its tracksuits and trainers, with its deep roots in cycling and unmistakable Gallic identity giving it a distinct appeal in today’s heritage revival.\nWhere Le Coq Sportif leans on quiet heritage, Kappa’s resurgence is far bolder. Founded in Turin in northern Italy in 1978, Kappa has re-emerged with logo-taped tracksuits and the famous Omini logo – two back-to-back silhouettes symbolising equality and partnership. First adopted as football terrace staples across Europe, by the late 90s the brand’s tracksuits had crossed into Britpop, with Oasis and other bands cementing Kappa’s link to music and youth culture. Today, the resurgence has been embraced by musicians and streetwear fans once again, with celebrities from Brooklyn Peltz Beckham to Rihanna photographed in its designs.\n\nThe revival also extends to Ellesse, founded in Perugia in central Italy in 1959. The brand fused fashion and sport earlier than most, with colourful ski wear and tennis apparel that carried a distinctly Italian flair. By the 80s, its tracksuits and jackets were staples of British youth culture, before fading from view and later returning in the current wave of 80s and 90s nostalgia. Today, oversized sweatshirts and bold graphics have made it a favourite among younger consumers once again.\n\nFounded in Leicestershire, England, in 1905, Gola is another brand having a mini renaissance. Mainly known for its long-popular Badminton sneaker, the brand recently partnered with menswear label Oxblood Zebra for a vintage-tinged collaboration.\nTogether, these revivals speak to fashion’s cyclical appetite. What once felt dated can return to resonate once more as authentic and desirable. Indeed, yesterday’s sportswear is today’s status symbol and as fashion continues to mine the past for inspiration, the workout gear of decades gone by looks set to shape the sportswear of tomorrow.\n