<p>随着中国传统烈酒和高端葡萄酒消费的下降，饮料市场正在发生重大变化。本系列文章分为三部分，探讨了茅台镇面临的挑战，曾经备受追捧的白酒失去光彩的原因，经济封锁对欧洲葡萄酒进口的影响，以及精酿啤酒作为寻求高品质但不想花费过多的消费者的经济实惠替代品的崛起。\n 在农历九月初九，雨季通常结束，赤水河的水清澈见底，位于中国贵州省的茅台镇的白酒酿酒厂举行盛大的仪式，开启年度酿造周期。\n 这是一个吉祥的时刻，中国庆祝重阳节——也称为双九节，因为九与相当积极的能量相关。酿酒厂借助节日的气氛，将第一批压碎的红高粱——他们高浓度烈酒的主要原料——投入发酵池中。\n 但今年，作为中国酒都的茅台镇的节日气氛大为减弱。持续的降雨和浓雾笼罩着这个地方，似乎映射出全国白酒行业的长期低迷。\n 在假期的 10 月 29 日，该镇奢华旗舰产品——由贵州茅台公司生产并以 “茅台飞天” 品牌销售——的批发价格降至观察者所称的近年来的新低。\n 这家国有巨头的名字源于贵州茅台的较早罗马化名称，面临着越来越大的压力。根据居民的说法，曾经超过 1000 家小型酿酒厂中的几百家已经在过去几年中被迫关闭，现存的仅占一小部分。\n“我们不知道这是否是长期转型，还是春天到来之前的暂时冬天，” 当地酿酒厂长虹的老板罗佳佳说。她的家族经营着一家名为 Longhoom 的酿酒厂。“坦率地说，我们也感到困惑，正在经历一个不确定的时期。”\n 该行业的挣扎反映了国内消费疲软，但更深层次的变化也在发生。年轻的中国人拒绝强迫饮酒的规范，而北京最新的紧缩措施部分禁止在官方宴会上饮酒——这对白酒的传统需求驱动因素造成了双重打击。对于酿酒厂来说，重新品牌化和寻找新市场的过程变得至关重要。\n 与其他以白酒生产而闻名的城镇相比，茅台特别容易受到北京对共产党纪律的收紧的影响。几十年来，国有的贵州茅台的繁荣与公共部门的采购密切相关，而这些采购对价格基本上不敏感。该公司的成功催生了无数小型酒类制造商和商人。走在镇上，发现这里买白酒比买瓶装水更容易。\n 茅台镇在历史上也具有重要意义，是一个红色旅游景点，与长征有着深厚的联系——这是 1934 年至 1936 年间共产党红军从国民党军队大规模撤退的过程。将军耿飚（1909-2000）在他的回忆录中说：“一些士兵买了 [茅台生产的白酒] 来提神，一些则用它 [涂抹] 在脚上以放松肌肉和促进血液循环。”\n 在更近的历史中，茅台镇经常举办公共官员的团队建设活动。许多人会访问小商店，购买相对实惠的大宗白酒，通常作为纪念品或礼物。但几位店主表示，这种访问已经减少，当它们发生时，游客更犹豫于脱离导游的行程去购买酒。\n 如今，贵州茅台和镇上剩余的小型酿酒厂面临着自己版本的长征——努力摆脱对官方、公共部门和他们长期依赖的饮酒文化的依赖。\n“总之，酒在中国的表达方式确实需要重建，” 中国酒类协会秘书长何勇在上个月的茅台镇赤水河论坛上表示。“我们常说，世界各地的饮酒有两个目的：取悦他人或取悦自己。中国以其主要以社交为驱动的饮酒文化而独树一帜。\n“然而，我们正在目睹一种从取悦他人转向取悦自己的转变，尤其是在年轻一代中。”\n“过去，我们主要关注企业对企业的交易。但现在，我们也需要一个面向终端用户的渠道。”\n 罗佳佳，长虹酿酒厂\n 与此同时，贵州茅台已开始与奢华和腐败的形象保持距离，同时推出针对年轻消费者的产品——从白酒口味的冰淇淋到与中国最大的咖啡连锁店瑞幸咖啡合作的酒精咖啡拿铁。\n 随着中国迅速老龄化，这一转变变得更加紧迫。核心白酒消费者群体——通常是 30 至 55 岁的人群——在过去五年中减少了约 2800 万，中央财经大学首席经济学家李迅雷在同一活动中表示。\n 本月，为了扭转白酒行业的疲软状态，贵州发布了一项为期三年的计划，将该行业的框架从单纯的 “卖酒” 转变为推广更广泛的以白酒为中心的 “生活方式”。该战略包括将白酒与旅游、体育、文化活动和健康服务相结合，开发低酒精、果味白酒和中式鸡尾酒。\n 但与行业巨头相比，缺乏广泛认可品牌的小型生产商在推出新产品时面临更大的挑战。\n“我们只能专注于扩大销售渠道，” 长虹的罗佳佳说。\n 三年前，罗的家族从不需要担心分销：商人和公司直接购买成品，酿酒厂通常需要排队等待包装材料。今年，在重阳节前一天，罗在镇广场附近的一个政府组织的白酒博览会上设立了一个小摊位，试图吸引路过的游客。\n“过去，我们主要关注企业对企业的交易，” 她说。“但现在，我们也需要一个面向终端用户的渠道。”\n\n 其他当地白酒制造商正在尝试在社交媒体上改变人们的看法。在赤水河旁的千泰酿酒厂，经理肖帅在抖音上发布视频，展示酿酒厂的日常操作——从蒸煮到发酵——同时也对中国的饮酒文化进行自己的评论。\n“我不认为年轻人回避白酒仅仅是因为他们拒绝烈酒，” 肖说。“许多人仍然喜欢去酒吧喝朗姆酒、鸡尾酒、威士忌或轩尼诗，但实际上那些也是烈酒。\n“只是他们更喜欢不在权威或高压的情况下被迫过量饮酒。”\n 与其他面临国内需求疲软的行业一样，白酒生产商也在关注海外市场。与其他烈酒类别不同，中国白酒在很大程度上依赖于国内市场。但行业内部人士表示，随着 Z 世代对轻饮酒的全球趋势，挑战依然存在。\n 贵州茅台在海外市场的探索中处于领先地位，甚至在 6 月的巴黎 Viva Technology 大会上亮相。目前，该公司在中国企业集中海外扩张的地区加大了市场努力，公司董事王莉本月告诉投资者。\n 消费场景的丧失、习惯的转变和不兼容的商业模式意味着该行业正处于关键的转型点，王说。\n“尽管面临众多困难和挑战，但这也为行业重新启动、重塑和重新调整自身以更好地适应市场、满足需求和促进发展提供了宝贵的机会，” 王补充道。\n\n 在地方政府、商会和行业协会的指导下，小品牌也通过参加海外葡萄酒博览会和贸易展览加入了这一运动。\n 许多白酒生产商首先将香港和东南亚作为扩展的重点。在 11 月初，十多家贵州酿酒厂参加了香港国际葡萄酒与烈酒博览会。\n“在东南亚国家，人们对中国文化相对熟悉，因此向这些市场出口应该是可行的，” 罗说。“关键问题是当地经济是否能够承受。”\n 对于茅台镇的许多人来说，四年前市场繁荣的记忆仍然鲜明。贵州茅台的批发价格是现在的两倍多。不仅仅是酒，这种烈酒被视为 “液体黄金”——在送礼时的地位象征，锁在保险箱里的收藏品，或是以其价值会升值的投资。\n 行业内部人士指出，白酒是一个周期性行业，约五年一个周期，但许多人怀疑之前的狂热是否会再度回归。\n“我认为只有在中国，酒才会被附加上金融价值。毕竟，它并不是真正的黄金，对吧？” 千泰酿酒厂的肖说。“现在我们逐渐看到它回归到其基本价值”——饮用的东西。\n“在我看来，这正是它应该有的样子。”</p>

贵州茅台

<p>中国的白酒行业以茅台镇为中心，面临消费下降、经济转型和文化规范变化等挑战。贵州茅台公司和一些小型酿酒厂正在苦苦挣扎，因为年轻的中国人拒绝传统的饮酒习俗，而节俭措施限制了官方活动中的酒精消费。该行业正试图重新品牌化并寻找新市场，努力通过创新产品吸引年轻消费者，例如白酒口味的冰淇淋和酒精饮料拿铁</p>

<p>As China’s traditional spirits and premium wines grapple with declining consumption, a significant shift is under way across the beverage landscape. This three-part series examines the challenges faced by Maotai town as its once-coveted baijiu loses its lustre, the impact of economic shutdowns on European wine imports, and the rise of craft beer as a budget-friendly alternative for consumers seeking quality without breaking the bank.\nOn the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, when the rainy season has typically come to an end and the waters of the Chishui River run clear, baijiu distilleries in Maotai town in China’s Guizhou province stage elaborate ceremonies to kick off the annual brewing cycle.\nIt is an auspicious time when China celebrates the Chung Yeung Festival – also known as the Double Ninth Festival, as nine is associated with considerable positive energy. And distilleries capitalise on the festivities by feeding the first batch of crushed red sorghum – the main raw material for their high-proof fiery spirits – into fermentation pits.\nBut this year, the festive mood in what is known as China’s liquor capital was largely tempered. Relentless rain and thick fog settled in, seemingly mirroring a prolonged downturn across the baijiu sector nationwide.\nOn the holiday, October 29, the wholesale price of the town’s luxurious flagship product – made by the Kweichow Moutai Company and marketed as Moutai Flying Fairy – fell to what observers described as a new low in recent years.\nThe state-backed giant, whose name derives from an older romanisation of Guizhou Maotai, has come under mounting pressure. And several hundred of what were once more than 1,000 smaller distilleries in the town have already been forced to shut down in the last several years, leaving only a fraction in operation, according to residents.\n“We don’t know if this is a long-term transformation or just a temporary winter before spring returns,” said Luo Jiajia, whose family runs a local distillery, Changhong, which operates under the English brand name Longhoom. “Frankly, we’re also at a loss and navigating a period of uncertainty.”\n\nThe sector’s struggle reflects weak domestic consumption, but deeper shifts are also at play. Younger Chinese are rejecting forced-drinking norms, and Beijing’s latest austerity measures, in part, ban alcohol at official banquets – a double blow to the traditional demand drivers of baijiu. For distilleries, the process of rebranding and finding new markets has become existential.\nCompared with other towns also known for baijiu production, Maotai is especially exposed to Beijing’s tightening grip on Communist Party discipline. For decades, the state-owned Kweichow Moutai’s prosperity was linked to public-sector purchases that were largely indifferent to prices. And the firm’s success gave rise to myriad smaller liquor makers and merchants. A stroll through town finds it is easier here to buy baijiu than bottled water.\nMaotai town also holds historical significance as a red-tourism site, with a deep connection to the Long March – the large-scale military retreat by the Communist Party’s Red Army from the Kuomintang, or Nationalist, forces from 1934 to 1936. General Geng Biao (1909-2000) said in his memoir: “Some soldiers bought [baijiu made in Maotai] to refresh themselves, some rubbed [it on] their feet to relax the muscles and stimulate blood circulation.”\nAnd in more recent history, Maotai town frequently hosted team-building activities among public officials. Many would visit small shops to purchase relatively affordable bulk baijiu, often as souvenirs or gifts. But several shop owners say such visits have dwindled, and when they do occur, visitors are more hesitant to break away from guided tours to buy liquor.\nToday, Kweichow Moutai and the remaining small distilleries in the township face their own version of a long march – striving to break free from a reliance on officialdom, the public sector and a drinking culture that they long depended on.\n“In short, the way liquor is expressed [in China] truly needs reconstruction,” said He Yong, secretary general of the China Alcoholic Drinks Association, an industry group. He was speaking last month at the Chishui River Forum in Maotai town. “We often say that drinking around the world serves two purposes: to please others or to please oneself. China stands out for its predominantly social-driven drinking culture.\n“Yet, we are witnessing a shift from pleasing others to pleasing oneself, especially among the younger generation.”\nIn the past, we primarily focused on business-to-business. But now, we also need an outlet for end users\nLuo Jiajia, Changhong distillery\nAt the same time, Kweichow Moutai has moved to distance itself from images of extravagance and corruption, while launching products aimed at younger consumers – from baijiu-flavoured ice cream, to alcohol-infused lattes in a partnership with China’s biggest coffee chain, Luckin Coffee.\nThe pivot has become more urgent as China rapidly ages. The core baijiu consumer cohort – typically people in the 30-55 age range – has shrunk by about 28 million over the past five years, said Li Xunlei, chief economist at Zhongtai International, at the same event.\nThis month, in an effort to reverse the weakened state of the baijiu industry, Guizhou issued a three-year plan to reframe the sector from merely “selling liquor” to promoting a broader baijiu-centred “lifestyle”. The strategy includes integrating baijiu with tourism, sports, cultural events and wellness services, and developing low-alcohol, fruit-infused baijiu and Chinese-style cocktails.\nBut compared with industry giants, smaller producers without widely recognised brands face steeper challenges in launching new products.\n“We can only focus on expanding sales channels,” said Luo at Changhong.\nThree years ago, Luo’s family never had to worry about distribution: merchants and companies bought finished products directly, and distilleries often had to queue for packaging supplies. This year, a day before Chung Yeung, Luo manned a small stall at a government-organised baijiu fair near the town square in a bid to entice passing tourists.\n“In the past, we primarily focused on business-to-business,” she said. “But now, we also need an outlet for end users.”\n\nOther local baijiu makers are trying to change perceptions on social media. At the Qiantai distillery by the Chishui River, manager Xiao Shuai posts videos to Douyin, the Chinese version of TikTok, showing the distillery’s daily operations – from steaming to fermentation – while also offering his own commentary on China’s drinking culture.\n“I don’t think young people avoid baijiu simply because they reject strong alcoholic drinks,” Xiao said. “Many still enjoy going to bars to drink rum, cocktails, whisky or Hennessy, but actually those are also strong.\n“It’s just that they prefer not to be in authoritative or high-pressure situations where they’re forced to drink excessively.”\nLike other domestic sectors facing sluggish domestic demand, baijiu producers are also eyeing overseas markets. Unlike other spirits categories, Chinese baijiu is overwhelmingly dependent on the home market. But challenges remain amid a global trend by Generation Z towards lighter drinking, industry insiders say.\nKweichow Moutai has been taking the lead in the quest overseas, even making an appearance at Paris’ Viva Technology conference in June. Currently, the firm has intensified its market efforts in regions where Chinese enterprises are concentrating their overseas expansion, company director Wang Li told investors this month.\nA loss of consumption scenarios, shifting habits and incompatible business models mean the industry is at a critical transformation point, Wang said.\n“Despite numerous difficulties and challenges, it also represents a valuable opportunity for the industry to restart, reinvent and realign itself to better adapt to the market, meet demand and foster development,” Wang added.\n\nSmaller brands, under the guidance of local governments, commerce chambers and industry associations, have also joined the campaign by participating in overseas wine expos and trade fairs.\nMany baijiu producers first prioritise Hong Kong and Southeast Asia in expansion efforts. In early November, more than a dozen Guizhou distilleries attended the Hong Kong International Wine &amp; Spirits Fair.\n“In Southeast Asian countries, people are relatively familiar with Chinese culture, so exporting to these markets should be feasible,” Luo said. “The key question is whether local economies can afford it.”\nFor many in Maotai town, memories of a booming market just four years ago still burn bright in their minds. The wholesale price of Kweichow Moutai was more than twice what it is now. More than just liquor, the spirit was treated as “liquid gold” – a status symbol in gift-giving, a collectible to be locked away in a safe, or an investment made with the belief that the spirit’s value would appreciate.\nIndustry insiders point out that baijiu is a cyclical sector, with roughly five-year swings, but many doubt whether the previous frenzy will ever return.\n“I think only in China would liquor be attached to a financial value. After all, it isn’t really gold, right?” said Xiao at Qiantai Distillery. “Now we’re gradually seeing a return to its fundamental value” – something to drink.\n“In my opinion, that’s exactly how it should be.”\n</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>随着中国传统烈酒和高端葡萄酒消费的下降，饮料市场正在发生重大变化。本系列文章分为三部分，探讨了茅台镇面临的挑战，曾经备受追捧的白酒失去光彩的原因，经济封锁对欧洲葡萄酒进口的影响，以及精酿啤酒作为寻求高品质但不想花费过多的消费者的经济实惠替代品的崛起。\n 在农历九月初九，雨季通常结束，赤水河的水清澈见底，位于中国贵州省的茅台镇的白酒酿酒厂举行盛大的仪式，开启年度酿造周期。\n 这是一个吉祥的时刻，中国庆祝重阳节——也称为双九节，因为九与相当积极的能量相关。酿酒厂借助节日的气氛，将第一批压碎的红高粱——他们高浓度烈酒的主要原料——投入发酵池中。\n 但今年，作为中国酒都的茅台镇的节日气氛大为减弱。持续的降雨和浓雾笼罩着这个地方，似乎映射出全国白酒行业的长期低迷。\n 在假期的 10 月 29 日，该镇奢华旗舰产品——由贵州茅台公司生产并以 “茅台飞天” 品牌销售——的批发价格降至观察者所称的近年来的新低。\n 这家国有巨头的名字源于贵州茅台的较早罗马化名称，面临着越来越大的压力。根据居民的说法，曾经超过 1000 家小型酿酒厂中的几百家已经在过去几年中被迫关闭，现存的仅占一小部分。\n“我们不知道这是否是长期转型，还是春天到来之前的暂时冬天，” 当地酿酒厂长虹的老板罗佳佳说。她的家族经营着一家名为 Longhoom 的酿酒厂。“坦率地说，我们也感到困惑，正在经历一个不确定的时期。”\n 该行业的挣扎反映了国内消费疲软，但更深层次的变化也在发生。年轻的中国人拒绝强迫饮酒的规范，而北京最新的紧缩措施部分禁止在官方宴会上饮酒——这对白酒的传统需求驱动因素造成了双重打击。对于酿酒厂来说，重新品牌化和寻找新市场的过程变得至关重要。\n 与其他以白酒生产而闻名的城镇相比，茅台特别容易受到北京对共产党纪律的收紧的影响。几十年来，国有的贵州茅台的繁荣与公共部门的采购密切相关，而这些采购对价格基本上不敏感。该公司的成功催生了无数小型酒类制造商和商人。走在镇上，发现这里买白酒比买瓶装水更容易。\n 茅台镇在历史上也具有重要意义，是一个红色旅游景点，与长征有着深厚的联系——这是 1934 年至 1936 年间共产党红军从国民党军队大规模撤退的过程。将军耿飚（1909-2000）在他的回忆录中说：“一些士兵买了 [茅台生产的白酒] 来提神，一些则用它 [涂抹] 在脚上以放松肌肉和促进血液循环。”\n 在更近的历史中，茅台镇经常举办公共官员的团队建设活动。许多人会访问小商店，购买相对实惠的大宗白酒，通常作为纪念品或礼物。但几位店主表示，这种访问已经减少，当它们发生时，游客更犹豫于脱离导游的行程去购买酒。\n 如今，贵州茅台和镇上剩余的小型酿酒厂面临着自己版本的长征——努力摆脱对官方、公共部门和他们长期依赖的饮酒文化的依赖。\n“总之，酒在中国的表达方式确实需要重建，” 中国酒类协会秘书长何勇在上个月的茅台镇赤水河论坛上表示。“我们常说，世界各地的饮酒有两个目的：取悦他人或取悦自己。中国以其主要以社交为驱动的饮酒文化而独树一帜。\n“然而，我们正在目睹一种从取悦他人转向取悦自己的转变，尤其是在年轻一代中。”\n“过去，我们主要关注企业对企业的交易。但现在，我们也需要一个面向终端用户的渠道。”\n 罗佳佳，长虹酿酒厂\n 与此同时，贵州茅台已开始与奢华和腐败的形象保持距离，同时推出针对年轻消费者的产品——从白酒口味的冰淇淋到与中国最大的咖啡连锁店瑞幸咖啡合作的酒精咖啡拿铁。\n 随着中国迅速老龄化，这一转变变得更加紧迫。核心白酒消费者群体——通常是 30 至 55 岁的人群——在过去五年中减少了约 2800 万，中央财经大学首席经济学家李迅雷在同一活动中表示。\n 本月，为了扭转白酒行业的疲软状态，贵州发布了一项为期三年的计划，将该行业的框架从单纯的 “卖酒” 转变为推广更广泛的以白酒为中心的 “生活方式”。该战略包括将白酒与旅游、体育、文化活动和健康服务相结合，开发低酒精、果味白酒和中式鸡尾酒。\n 但与行业巨头相比，缺乏广泛认可品牌的小型生产商在推出新产品时面临更大的挑战。\n“我们只能专注于扩大销售渠道，” 长虹的罗佳佳说。\n 三年前，罗的家族从不需要担心分销：商人和公司直接购买成品，酿酒厂通常需要排队等待包装材料。今年，在重阳节前一天，罗在镇广场附近的一个政府组织的白酒博览会上设立了一个小摊位，试图吸引路过的游客。\n“过去，我们主要关注企业对企业的交易，” 她说。“但现在，我们也需要一个面向终端用户的渠道。”\n\n 其他当地白酒制造商正在尝试在社交媒体上改变人们的看法。在赤水河旁的千泰酿酒厂，经理肖帅在抖音上发布视频，展示酿酒厂的日常操作——从蒸煮到发酵——同时也对中国的饮酒文化进行自己的评论。\n“我不认为年轻人回避白酒仅仅是因为他们拒绝烈酒，” 肖说。“许多人仍然喜欢去酒吧喝朗姆酒、鸡尾酒、威士忌或轩尼诗，但实际上那些也是烈酒。\n“只是他们更喜欢不在权威或高压的情况下被迫过量饮酒。”\n 与其他面临国内需求疲软的行业一样，白酒生产商也在关注海外市场。与其他烈酒类别不同，中国白酒在很大程度上依赖于国内市场。但行业内部人士表示，随着 Z 世代对轻饮酒的全球趋势，挑战依然存在。\n 贵州茅台在海外市场的探索中处于领先地位，甚至在 6 月的巴黎 Viva Technology 大会上亮相。目前，该公司在中国企业集中海外扩张的地区加大了市场努力，公司董事王莉本月告诉投资者。\n 消费场景的丧失、习惯的转变和不兼容的商业模式意味着该行业正处于关键的转型点，王说。\n“尽管面临众多困难和挑战，但这也为行业重新启动、重塑和重新调整自身以更好地适应市场、满足需求和促进发展提供了宝贵的机会，” 王补充道。\n\n 在地方政府、商会和行业协会的指导下，小品牌也通过参加海外葡萄酒博览会和贸易展览加入了这一运动。\n 许多白酒生产商首先将香港和东南亚作为扩展的重点。在 11 月初，十多家贵州酿酒厂参加了香港国际葡萄酒与烈酒博览会。\n“在东南亚国家，人们对中国文化相对熟悉，因此向这些市场出口应该是可行的，” 罗说。“关键问题是当地经济是否能够承受。”\n 对于茅台镇的许多人来说，四年前市场繁荣的记忆仍然鲜明。贵州茅台的批发价格是现在的两倍多。不仅仅是酒，这种烈酒被视为 “液体黄金”——在送礼时的地位象征，锁在保险箱里的收藏品，或是以其价值会升值的投资。\n 行业内部人士指出，白酒是一个周期性行业，约五年一个周期，但许多人怀疑之前的狂热是否会再度回归。\n“我认为只有在中国，酒才会被附加上金融价值。毕竟，它并不是真正的黄金，对吧？” 千泰酿酒厂的肖说。“现在我们逐渐看到它回归到其基本价值”——饮用的东西。\n“在我看来，这正是它应该有的样子。”</p>
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随着白酒的 “液体黄金” 光辉逐渐消退，中国的白酒之都正面临漫长的重生之路