<p>一个多世纪以来，正装表代表了传统制表艺术中最精致的形式。它的设计旨在与正式服装搭配，旨在补充而非引人注目。通常由贵金属制成——通常是黄金或铂金——配有简约的表盘和皮革表带，其优势一直在于其纤薄、优雅和机械结构简单的制表方式。\n 真正的正装表首次出现在 20 世纪初，但其起源可以追溯到摄政时期，当时男士的裁剪风格向现代西装的更干净、更合身的轮廓转变。随着夹克变得更纤薄、腰线更高，携带笨重的怀表会扭曲整体造型，这促使制表师们生产更纤薄、更低调的设计。制造超薄机芯的能力成为了精致和财富的标志。到 19 世纪末，平壳怀表已成为正式服装的固定搭配。\n\n 第一次世界大战标志着下一个转折点。返回前线的军官们带回了他们在战斗中佩戴的实用腕表，这种风格迅速在平民生活中流行开来。摆脱了军事功能，制表师们开始将这些早期模型精炼成更纤薄、更优雅的版本，适合商务和晚宴穿着。到 1920 年代，正装表已成为运动工具表的低调对应物——以纤薄的轮廓、简单的表盘和足够小以便整齐滑入衬衫袖口的表壳为特征。\n 随着 20 世纪下半叶品味的变化，运动表成为日常选择。然而，近年来，制表师们重新回归到更正式的风格，重新聚焦于使用单色调来突出质感、工艺和极简设计，而不是依赖颜色或装饰。\n\n 单色正装表也在最近的红毯和重大活动中成为一种低调的最爱。在 BFI 伦敦电影节《弗兰肯斯坦》的首映式上，演员奥斯卡·艾萨克搭配了一款黑色表盘的 18k 黄金 Tank Louis Cartier，完美契合他的全黑造型。今年温布尔登网球锦标赛上，大卫·贝克汉姆在场边被发现佩戴了一款独一无二的 Tudor Black Bay Chrono，这是他 50 岁生日时收到的礼物，配有黑色漆面表盘、钻石时标和镶钻表链。\n\n 类似的简约色调正在激发经典正装表的新诠释。其中最明显的例子是德国品牌 A. Lange &amp; Söhne 的新款 Saxonia Thin，它将抛光黑玛瑙表盘与 40mm 的铂金或品牌专有的蜂蜜金表壳相结合，这种色调介于粉色和白色黄金之间。玛瑙表面为原本简约的设计增添了深度，设计仅有两根指针和纤细的时标。内部是一个手动上链机芯，通过表背可见，具有 72 小时的动力储备。\n\n 另一个低调的诠释来自劳力士的 Perpetual 1908 系列，该系列于 2023 年推出。灵感来自劳力士最早的配备永动转子的手表之一，提供黑色或白色缎面表盘，使该型号比品牌的运动图标更为低调。39mm 的表壳有黄、白金或铂金可选，还配有透明表背——对于劳力士来说仍然是罕见的——展示 Calibre 7140 机芯。\n 卡地亚继续在单色对话中推出其最新的 Santos 系列。该设计最初由路易·卡地亚于 1904 年为飞行员阿尔贝托·圣多明戈创造，今年以两种不同版本回归：一款钢制模型，配有黑色表盘，表盘为半缎面、半阳光爆发的效果；另一款是钛金版，配有白色表盘和珠光喷砂哑光表面，使金属呈现出石墨色，同时将重量减少近一半。演员塞巴斯蒂安·斯坦，以《潘与汤米》和漫威的《猎鹰与冬兵》而闻名，早些时候为最新的 Santos de Cartier 广告代言，并作为品牌的官方朋友，揭晓了新的 Santos Titanium 和 Santos Black Dial 模型。\n\n 在其他地方，一些制表师选择了更具装饰性的方式。雅克德罗的 Reverso Tribute Enamel “Horse” 将光泽黑色大火珐琅与手工雕刻相结合，雕刻如此精细，以至于每个表背需要约 80 小时的工作。反面描绘了一匹昂首的马，马头和前腿从金色云朵中升起，浮雕雕刻在一层黑色珐琅上。限量仅 10 件，这款手表利用对比来强调 Reverso 艺术装饰风格的几何形状。\n\n 爱马仕为单色趋势带来了俏皮的元素，推出了 Cut Le Temps Suspendu，预计于 2024 年发布。这款 39mm 的玫瑰金模型配有白色表盘，具有独特的几何轮廓和凸起的阿拉伯数字，延续了该系列对形状和比例的关注。内部，Hermès H1912 机芯驱动一种机制，允许佩戴者在按下按钮时暂停和恢复时间——这一复杂功能首次出现在 2011 年的 Arceau 系列中。凭借其一体式表链和干净的对称性，它赋予了技术概念现代正装表所期望的低调优雅。\n\n 在 IWC 沙夫豪森，单色主题也呈现出更技术化的转变，新款 Ingenieur Automatic 42 完全由黑色氧化锆陶瓷制成——这是该品牌的首次尝试。这款手表重新诠释了 70 年代一体式表链设计，采用均匀的哑光表面和网格纹理的黑色表盘。F1 车手乔治·拉塞尔最近被发现佩戴了一款独一无二的黑色陶瓷版本，与 Bamford Watch Department 合作制作，表盘的蓝色与他的赛车头盔的确切色调相同——这一定制设计将 IWC 的技术设计与现代赛车相连接。\n\n 对于皮亚杰，单色趋势出现在品牌的 Polo Date 上，黑色表盘和橡胶表带与玫瑰金表壳相结合，柔化了设计的运动根基。最终结果是一款能够轻松滑入袖口的手表，同时保持该系列可识别的圆角方形外形。\n 传统也发挥了决定性作用。为庆祝其 250 周年，宝玑重新审视了亚伯拉罕 - 路易·宝玑的早期创作之一——Classique Souscription 2025——这是一款单针腕表，重新构想了 18 世纪的 “订阅” 模型。纯白色的大火珐琅表盘、黑色宝玑数字和手工火焰蓝钢指针赋予了这款作品几乎宁静的对称感。40mm 的表壳采用品牌新专有的宝玑金，捕捉了古典怀表的低调温暖，同时保持了外观的现代感。\n\n 百达翡丽的 Aquanaut Luce 黑色款式走上了类似的低调之路。曾被定义为运动时尚款，其深色表盘和镶钻表圈如今赋予了它现代正装表的低调和优雅。路易威登的 Tambour Slim Monogram Dentelle 更进一步，将装饰视为几何：钻石作为结构的一部分，镶嵌在黑色漆面表盘上的 Monogram 花朵中。在功能性方面，瑞士制造商 Certina 提供了一种实用的选择，推出了 DS-1 Big Date，将正装表格式转化为不锈钢，表面为哑光黑 PVD 处理。这款 41mm 的模型配有阳光纹理的表盘和六点钟位置的大日期显示，由 Powermatic 80.651 自动机芯驱动。\n 在单色复兴中，正装表回归了它一直以来最擅长的——将优雅提炼至最简单的形式。</p>

路易威登(ADR)

爱马仕(ADR)

<p>正装表曾经被运动表所掩盖，但现在正重新崛起。历史上，正装表以其精致和优雅著称，像劳力士、卡地亚和爱马仕这样的品牌正在通过极简设计和单色调重新诠释它们。最近的名人代言和创新款式，如 A. Lange & Söhne 的 Saxonia Thin 和劳力士的 Perpetual 1908，展示了它们的新魅力。卡地亚的 Santos 系列和积家装饰性的 Reverso Tribute Enamel 进一步突显了这一趋势，强调了工艺和低调的优雅</p>

<p>For more than a century, the dress watch has represented the most refined form of traditional horology. It was created to be worn with formal clothing, designed to complement rather than command attention. Typically made in precious metal – often gold or platinum – with a plain dial and a leather strap, its strength has always been its slim, elegant and mechanically straightforward approach to watchmaking.\nThe first true dress watches appeared in the early 20th century, but their origins reach further back to the Regency period, when men’s tailoring shifted towards the cleaner, more fitted silhouette of the modern suit. With slimmer jackets and higher waistlines, carrying a bulky pocket watch distorted the look, prompting watchmakers to produce thinner, more discreet designs. The ability to make an ultra-thin movement became a mark of sophistication and wealth. By the late 19th century, flat-cased pocket watches were fixtures of formal dress.\n\nWorld War I marked the next turning point. Officers returning from the front lines brought back the practical wristwatches they had worn in combat, and the style quickly took hold in civilian life. Freed from military function, watchmakers began refining these early models into slimmer, more elegant versions suited to business and evening wear. By the 1920s, the dress watch had become a downplayed counterpart to sportier tool watches – defined by a thin profile, a simple dial and a case small enough to slide neatly beneath a shirt cuff.\nAs tastes shifted through the second half of the 20th century, sports watches became an everyday choice. In recent years, however, watchmakers have returned to a dressier style with a renewed focus, using a monochrome palette to highlight texture, finishing and minimalist design instead of relying on colour or decoration.\n\nThe monochrome dress watch has also become a quiet favourite on recent red carpets and at major events. Actor Oscar Isaac, at the BFI London Film Festival premiere of Frankenstein, paired a black dial 18k gold Tank Louis Cartier with his all-black look. At Wimbledon this year, David Beckham was spotted courtside wearing a one-of-a-kind Tudor Black Bay Chrono gifted to him for his 50th birthday, featuring a black lacquer dial with diamond indices and diamond-set bracelet links.\n\nA similar pared-back palette is inspiring new interpretations of the classic dress watch. Among the clearest examples is the new Saxonia Thin from German brand A. Lange &amp; Söhne, which pairs a polished black onyx dial with a 40mm case in either platinum or the brand’s proprietary honey gold, a warm hue between pink and white gold. The onyx surface gives depth to the otherwise minimal design, which has just two hands and slim hour markers. Inside is a hand-wound movement visible through the caseback, with a 72-hour power reserve.\n\nAnother quiet interpretation comes from Rolex with the Perpetual 1908 collection, introduced in 2023. Inspired by one of the first Rolex watches with a Perpetual rotor, it’s available with black or white satin-finished dials, giving the model a more understated character than the brand’s sportier icons. The 39mm case, in yellow, white gold or platinum, also includes a transparent caseback – still rare for Rolex – that reveals the Calibre 7140 movement.\nCartier continues the monochrome conversation with its latest Santos models. The design, first created by Louis Cartier for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, returns this year in two distinct versions: a steel model featuring a black dial in a half-satin, half-sunburst finish, and a titanium edition with a white dial and bead-blasted matte surface that lends the metal an anthracite tone while reducing weight by nearly half. Actor Sebastian Stan, best known for Pam &amp; Tommy and Marvel’s The Falcon and the Winter Soldier, fronted the latest Santos de Cartier campaign earlier this year and, as an official friend of the maison, unveiled the new Santos Titanium and Santos Black Dial models.\n\nElsewhere, some watchmakers have chosen a more decorative approach. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Enamel “Horse” combines glossy black grand feu enamel with hand engraving so intricate that each caseback requires around 80 hours of work. The reverse side depicts a rearing horse with its head and forelegs rising from golden clouds, engraved in relief over a layer of black enamel. Limited to just 10 pieces, the watch uses contrast to emphasise the geometry of the Reverso’s art deco case.\n\nHermès brings a playful note to the monochrome trend with the Cut Le Temps Suspendu, introduced in 2024. The 39mm rose gold model features a white dial with distinctive, geometric contours and raised Arabic numerals, continuing the collection’s focus on form and proportion. Inside, the Hermès H1912 movement powers a mechanism that allows the wearer to pause and resume time at the press of a button – a complication first seen in the Arceau line in 2011. With its integrated bracelet and clean symmetry, it gives a technical concept the quiet refinement expected of a modern dress watch.\n\nThe monochrome theme also takes a more technical turn at IWC Schaffhausen, where the new Ingenieur Automatic 42 is made entirely from black zirconium oxide ceramic – a first for the brand. The watch reinterprets the 70s integrated bracelet design with a uniform matte finish and grid-textured black dial. F1 driver George Russell was recently spotted wearing a one-of-a-kind version in the same black ceramic, created with Bamford Watch Department and featuring a dial in the exact shade of blue as his racing helmet – a bespoke twist that connects IWC’s technical design with modern motorsport.\n\nFor Piaget, the monochrome trend appears on the brand’s Polo Date, which pairs a black dial and rubber strap with a rose gold case, softening the design’s sporty roots. The result is a watch that sits easily under a cuff while preserving the line’s recognisable rounded-square form.\nHeritage also plays a defining role. Marking its 250th anniversary, Breguet revisits one of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s earliest creations with the Classique Souscription 2025 – a single-hand wristwatch that reimagines the 18th-century “subscription” model. A pure white grand feu enamel dial, black Breguet numerals and a hand-flamed blue steel pointer gives the piece an almost calming symmetry. The 40mm case, in the brand’s new proprietary Breguet gold, captures the understated warmth of period pocket watches while keeping the aesthetic resolutely modern.\n\nPatek Philippe’s Aquanaut Luce in black takes a similar route towards subtlety. Once defined as a sport-chic model, its dark dial and diamond-set bezel now lend it the discretion and polish of a contemporary dress watch. Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Slim Monogram Dentelle goes further still, treating embellishment as geometry: diamonds appear as part of the structure, set into Monogram flowers against a black-lacquered dial. At the more functional end of the scale, Swiss maker Certina offers a utilitarian take with the DS-1 Big Date, which translates the dress watch format into stainless steel with a matte black PVD finish. The 41mm model has a sunray satin dial and a large date display at six o’clock, driven by the Powermatic 80.651 automatic movement.\nIn the monochrome revival, the dress watch returns to what it has always done best – distilling elegance to its simplest form.\n</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>一个多世纪以来，正装表代表了传统制表艺术中最精致的形式。它的设计旨在与正式服装搭配，旨在补充而非引人注目。通常由贵金属制成——通常是黄金或铂金——配有简约的表盘和皮革表带，其优势一直在于其纤薄、优雅和机械结构简单的制表方式。\n 真正的正装表首次出现在 20 世纪初，但其起源可以追溯到摄政时期，当时男士的裁剪风格向现代西装的更干净、更合身的轮廓转变。随着夹克变得更纤薄、腰线更高，携带笨重的怀表会扭曲整体造型，这促使制表师们生产更纤薄、更低调的设计。制造超薄机芯的能力成为了精致和财富的标志。到 19 世纪末，平壳怀表已成为正式服装的固定搭配。\n\n 第一次世界大战标志着下一个转折点。返回前线的军官们带回了他们在战斗中佩戴的实用腕表，这种风格迅速在平民生活中流行开来。摆脱了军事功能，制表师们开始将这些早期模型精炼成更纤薄、更优雅的版本，适合商务和晚宴穿着。到 1920 年代，正装表已成为运动工具表的低调对应物——以纤薄的轮廓、简单的表盘和足够小以便整齐滑入衬衫袖口的表壳为特征。\n 随着 20 世纪下半叶品味的变化，运动表成为日常选择。然而，近年来，制表师们重新回归到更正式的风格，重新聚焦于使用单色调来突出质感、工艺和极简设计，而不是依赖颜色或装饰。\n\n 单色正装表也在最近的红毯和重大活动中成为一种低调的最爱。在 BFI 伦敦电影节《弗兰肯斯坦》的首映式上，演员奥斯卡·艾萨克搭配了一款黑色表盘的 18k 黄金 Tank Louis Cartier，完美契合他的全黑造型。今年温布尔登网球锦标赛上，大卫·贝克汉姆在场边被发现佩戴了一款独一无二的 Tudor Black Bay Chrono，这是他 50 岁生日时收到的礼物，配有黑色漆面表盘、钻石时标和镶钻表链。\n\n 类似的简约色调正在激发经典正装表的新诠释。其中最明显的例子是德国品牌 A. Lange &amp; Söhne 的新款 Saxonia Thin，它将抛光黑玛瑙表盘与 40mm 的铂金或品牌专有的蜂蜜金表壳相结合，这种色调介于粉色和白色黄金之间。玛瑙表面为原本简约的设计增添了深度，设计仅有两根指针和纤细的时标。内部是一个手动上链机芯，通过表背可见，具有 72 小时的动力储备。\n\n 另一个低调的诠释来自劳力士的 Perpetual 1908 系列，该系列于 2023 年推出。灵感来自劳力士最早的配备永动转子的手表之一，提供黑色或白色缎面表盘，使该型号比品牌的运动图标更为低调。39mm 的表壳有黄、白金或铂金可选，还配有透明表背——对于劳力士来说仍然是罕见的——展示 Calibre 7140 机芯。\n 卡地亚继续在单色对话中推出其最新的 Santos 系列。该设计最初由路易·卡地亚于 1904 年为飞行员阿尔贝托·圣多明戈创造，今年以两种不同版本回归：一款钢制模型，配有黑色表盘，表盘为半缎面、半阳光爆发的效果；另一款是钛金版，配有白色表盘和珠光喷砂哑光表面，使金属呈现出石墨色，同时将重量减少近一半。演员塞巴斯蒂安·斯坦，以《潘与汤米》和漫威的《猎鹰与冬兵》而闻名，早些时候为最新的 Santos de Cartier 广告代言，并作为品牌的官方朋友，揭晓了新的 Santos Titanium 和 Santos Black Dial 模型。\n\n 在其他地方，一些制表师选择了更具装饰性的方式。雅克德罗的 Reverso Tribute Enamel “Horse” 将光泽黑色大火珐琅与手工雕刻相结合，雕刻如此精细，以至于每个表背需要约 80 小时的工作。反面描绘了一匹昂首的马，马头和前腿从金色云朵中升起，浮雕雕刻在一层黑色珐琅上。限量仅 10 件，这款手表利用对比来强调 Reverso 艺术装饰风格的几何形状。\n\n 爱马仕为单色趋势带来了俏皮的元素，推出了 Cut Le Temps Suspendu，预计于 2024 年发布。这款 39mm 的玫瑰金模型配有白色表盘，具有独特的几何轮廓和凸起的阿拉伯数字，延续了该系列对形状和比例的关注。内部，Hermès H1912 机芯驱动一种机制，允许佩戴者在按下按钮时暂停和恢复时间——这一复杂功能首次出现在 2011 年的 Arceau 系列中。凭借其一体式表链和干净的对称性，它赋予了技术概念现代正装表所期望的低调优雅。\n\n 在 IWC 沙夫豪森，单色主题也呈现出更技术化的转变，新款 Ingenieur Automatic 42 完全由黑色氧化锆陶瓷制成——这是该品牌的首次尝试。这款手表重新诠释了 70 年代一体式表链设计，采用均匀的哑光表面和网格纹理的黑色表盘。F1 车手乔治·拉塞尔最近被发现佩戴了一款独一无二的黑色陶瓷版本，与 Bamford Watch Department 合作制作，表盘的蓝色与他的赛车头盔的确切色调相同——这一定制设计将 IWC 的技术设计与现代赛车相连接。\n\n 对于皮亚杰，单色趋势出现在品牌的 Polo Date 上，黑色表盘和橡胶表带与玫瑰金表壳相结合，柔化了设计的运动根基。最终结果是一款能够轻松滑入袖口的手表，同时保持该系列可识别的圆角方形外形。\n 传统也发挥了决定性作用。为庆祝其 250 周年，宝玑重新审视了亚伯拉罕 - 路易·宝玑的早期创作之一——Classique Souscription 2025——这是一款单针腕表，重新构想了 18 世纪的 “订阅” 模型。纯白色的大火珐琅表盘、黑色宝玑数字和手工火焰蓝钢指针赋予了这款作品几乎宁静的对称感。40mm 的表壳采用品牌新专有的宝玑金，捕捉了古典怀表的低调温暖，同时保持了外观的现代感。\n\n 百达翡丽的 Aquanaut Luce 黑色款式走上了类似的低调之路。曾被定义为运动时尚款，其深色表盘和镶钻表圈如今赋予了它现代正装表的低调和优雅。路易威登的 Tambour Slim Monogram Dentelle 更进一步，将装饰视为几何：钻石作为结构的一部分，镶嵌在黑色漆面表盘上的 Monogram 花朵中。在功能性方面，瑞士制造商 Certina 提供了一种实用的选择，推出了 DS-1 Big Date，将正装表格式转化为不锈钢，表面为哑光黑 PVD 处理。这款 41mm 的模型配有阳光纹理的表盘和六点钟位置的大日期显示，由 Powermatic 80.651 自动机芯驱动。\n 在单色复兴中，正装表回归了它一直以来最擅长的——将优雅提炼至最简单的形式。</p>
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正装手表的演变历程及其回归原因——从劳力士、卡地亚到爱马仕和路易威登