<p>也许没有什么比格雷格斯（Greggs）推出无肉香肠卷更能代表英国的素食热潮。</p>
<p>这款素食替代品于 2019 年 1 月由这家面包连锁店推出，受到了极大的欢迎，以至于在网络的某些角落被视为英国年度文化时刻。</p>
<p>然而，七年后，素食革命似乎正在失去动力，一些人在社交媒体上开玩笑说，生活变得太压抑，以至于无法戒掉肉类。</p>
<p>最近由欧洲良好食品研究所发布的报告显示，素食主义衰退的迹象显现，报告指出截至 2025 年 1 月，英国植物性食品的销售额下降了 4.5%，降至 8.98 亿英镑。</p>
<p>来自 NIQ 的独立数据显示，自 2022 年以来，至少每年购买植物性肉类替代品的家庭比例有所下降，该组织强调了 “灵活素食者重新回归动物蛋白” 的趋势。</p>
<p>对于许多行业专家来说，英国素食热潮的崩溃早已是意料之中。</p>
<p>“十年前我就告诉投资公司，素食主义只是小众中的小众，” 零售专家和前买手 Ged Futter 说。</p>
<p>“这对我来说一点也不意外。素食主义属于素食主义，而现在几乎没有人再谈论素食主义了。”</p>
<p>目前的状况与五年前大相径庭，那时购物者几乎无法避免素食广告活动。</p>
<p>特易购（Tesco）、马克斯与斯宾塞（Marks &amp; Spencer）、阿斯达（Asda）和阿尔迪（Aldi）都推出了植物性产品系列，而肯德基（KFC）、克里斯皮克里姆（Krispy Kreme）和麦格农（Magnum）也试图借素食热潮获利。</p>
<p>但许多人开始意识到，消费者的胃口根本不在这里。去年，Wagamama 从菜单中剔除了多款素食热门菜品，包括 “Vegatsu” 咖喱和 “vegan K-Dogs”。该连锁店的母公司餐饮集团（The Restaurant Group）首席执行官安迪·霍恩比（Andy Hornby）表示，顾客的兴趣不足以继续保留这些菜品。</p>
<p>该连锁店最近菜单新增的营销宣传明显减少了对其素食资质的强调。</p>
<p>“人们意识到，完全素食产品的销量非常低，” Futter 说。</p>
<p>“对于制造商来说，当销量如此之小且看不到长期前景时，就会有一个时刻让你决定去做其他事情。”</p>
<p>去年也是那些试图主导素食市场的企业的一个清算时刻。</p>
<p>四月，受到莱昂纳多·迪卡普里奥（Leonardo DiCaprio）和刘易斯·汉密尔顿（Lewis Hamilton）支持的素食汉堡连锁店 Neat Burger 在遭受重大损失后关闭了所有英国餐厅。</p>
<p>然而，英国并不是唯一一个面临这种情况的地方——素食特色菜品也在欧洲各地的菜单上消失。</p>
<p>麦当劳的植物汉堡在七月悄然从奥地利的分店撤回，而多米诺比萨（Domino’s）在十一月重新推出时缩减了其素食产品。</p>
<p>Grace Withers，农业与园艺发展委员会（AHDB）的成员表示，只有在素食菜品畅销的情况下，无肉菜单才能为餐厅节省成本，但消费者的胃口被高估了。</p>
<p>“即使在素食主义最受欢迎的时候，我们看到的声称自己是素食主义者的人远远超过了真正坚持下来的，” Withers 说。</p>
<p>“人们常常在饿的时候放弃，想吃点美味的东西。我们在素食一月（Veganuary）期间也看到了这一点。”</p>
<p>根据支持农民和种植者的公共机构 AHDB 的数据，只有 1% 的素食一月参与者坚持到月底。</p>
<p>成本也是一个因素，因为植物性替代品如 Quorn 和豆腐的价格在近年来上涨幅度超过了便宜肉类的价格。</p>
<p>“由于生活成本危机，消费者非常关注价格，” Withers 说。“无肉产品的价格高于猪肉和鸡肉，因此它们在价格上没有竞争力。”</p>
<p>加剧素食困境的是一些健康意识强的消费者转向了其他潮流。</p>
<p>“随着力量训练趋势的持续流行，蛋白质摄入变得更加重要，” 健身集团（Gym Group）的教练 Jenni Tardiff 说。</p>
<p>来自零售分析师 Kantar 的数据表明，46% 的购物者试图在饮食中包含高蛋白食品，较 2022 年的 38% 有所上升。</p>
<p>文化的逆风同样发生了变化，尤其是在唐纳德·特朗普重新进入白宫之后。</p>
<p>他卫生部门本月早些时候发布的食物金字塔将乳制品和健康脂肪置于顶部。</p>
<p>“我们看到文化开始回归，庆祝真实、简单的食物：红肉、黄油和全脂牛奶，” Kantar 的 Bia Bezamat 说。“从动物来源获取蛋白质更容易。在一个日益复杂的世界中，简单性与人们产生共鸣。”</p>
<p>减肥药的兴起也是一个因素，Bezamat 说：“当你在服用药物时，你需要确保摄入所需的营养，而像素食主义这样限制性很大的饮食并不支持这一点。”</p>
<p>此外，针对所谓 “超加工食品” 的反弹也削弱了无肉替代品的受欢迎程度。</p>
<p>“当你查看一些素食产品包装的背面时，成分列表非常庞大，” Futter 说。</p>
<p>“大部分素食产品是由人们并不真正认识或理解的东西制成的。品牌和超市已经意识到这并不是顾客所寻找的。”</p>
<p>尽管偶尔有像燕麦奶这样的素食产品脱颖而出，但全面的素食革命的希望已经破灭。</p>
<p>“我认为对素食主义受欢迎程度的估计过高，” Bezamat 说，她将其与无麸质饮食的兴起和衰落进行了比较。</p>
<p>“那是最初的限制性饮食，最初几乎没有产品供应，然后突然出现了大量产品，” 她说。“现在它只是静静地放在货架上。”</p>

<p>英国的素食热潮正在下降，2025 年植物性食品销售额下降了 4.5%，降至 8.98 亿英镑。报告显示，灵活素食者的购物习惯正在回归动物性蛋白。行业专家指出，素食主义一直是一个小众市场，许多企业，包括 Neat Burger，因消费者兴趣低迷而关闭。导致这一下降的因素包括植物性产品成本上升、饮食趋势的变化倾向于高蛋白饮食，以及向传统食品的文化转变。整体对素食选择的需求似乎显著减弱</p>

<p>Perhaps nothing represented Britain’s vegan craze more than the launch of Greggs’ meat-free sausage roll.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>也许没有什么比格雷格斯（Greggs）推出无肉香肠卷更能代表英国的素食热潮。</p>
</div><p>Released by the bakery chain in January 2019, the vegan alternative was so popular that it was regarded in some corners of the internet as the UK’s cultural moment of the year.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这款素食替代品于 2019 年 1 月由这家面包连锁店推出，受到了极大的欢迎，以至于在网络的某些角落被视为英国年度文化时刻。</p>
</div><p>However, seven years later, it appears the vegan revolution is running out of steam, with some joking on social media that life has just become too depressing to swear off meat.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>然而，七年后，素食革命似乎正在失去动力，一些人在社交媒体上开玩笑说，生活变得太压抑，以至于无法戒掉肉类。</p>
</div><p>Signs of veganism’s decline appeared in a recent report by the Good Food Institute Europe, which found that sales of plant-based food in Britain fell by 4.5pc to £898m in the year to January 2025.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>最近由欧洲良好食品研究所发布的报告显示，素食主义衰退的迹象显现，报告指出截至 2025 年 1 月，英国植物性食品的销售额下降了 4.5%，降至 8.98 亿英镑。</p>
</div><p>Separate data from NIQ show that the share of households buying plant-based meat alternatives at least once a year has waned since 2022, with the organisation highlighting a shift in “flexitarian shoppers back into animal-based proteins”.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>来自 NIQ 的独立数据显示，自 2022 年以来，至少每年购买植物性肉类替代品的家庭比例有所下降，该组织强调了 “灵活素食者重新回归动物蛋白” 的趋势。</p>
</div><p>For many industry experts, the collapse in Britain’s vegan boom has been a long time coming.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>对于许多行业专家来说，英国素食热潮的崩溃早已是意料之中。</p>
</div><p>“I told investment companies 10 years ago that veganism is a niche of a niche,” says Ged Futter, a retail expert and former buyer.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“十年前我就告诉投资公司，素食主义只是小众中的小众，” 零售专家和前买手 Ged Futter 说。</p>
</div><p>“It was no surprise to me at all. Veganism sits within vegetarianism and no one really talks about vegetarianism any more.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“这对我来说一点也不意外。素食主义属于素食主义，而现在几乎没有人再谈论素食主义了。”</p>
</div><p>The current state of affairs is a far cry from five years ago, when shoppers could hardly move for vegan ad campaigns.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>目前的状况与五年前大相径庭，那时购物者几乎无法避免素食广告活动。</p>
</div><p>Tesco, Marks &amp; Spencer, Asda and Aldi all unveiled plant-based ranges while KFC, Krispy Kreme and Magnum made similar attempts to cash in on the vegan hype.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>特易购（Tesco）、马克斯与斯宾塞（Marks &amp; Spencer）、阿斯达（Asda）和阿尔迪（Aldi）都推出了植物性产品系列，而肯德基（KFC）、克里斯皮克里姆（Krispy Kreme）和麦格农（Magnum）也试图借素食热潮获利。</p>
</div><p>But many are starting to realise the appetite from consumers simply isn’t there. Last year, Wagamama axed a string of vegan favourites from menus, including its “Vegatsu” curry and its “vegan K-Dogs”. Andy Hornby, the chief executive of the chain’s owner, The Restaurant Group, argued that interest from diners wasn’t high enough to justify continuing the dishes’ inclusion.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>但许多人开始意识到，消费者的胃口根本不在这里。去年，Wagamama 从菜单中剔除了多款素食热门菜品，包括 “Vegatsu” 咖喱和 “vegan K-Dogs”。该连锁店的母公司餐饮集团（The Restaurant Group）首席执行官安迪·霍恩比（Andy Hornby）表示，顾客的兴趣不足以继续保留这些菜品。</p>
</div><p>Marketing for the chain’s most recent menu additions makes noticeably less of a fuss about its vegan credentials.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>该连锁店最近菜单新增的营销宣传明显减少了对其素食资质的强调。</p>
</div><p>“People are realising that the volumes going through fully vegan products are very low,” says Futter.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“人们意识到，完全素食产品的销量非常低，” Futter 说。</p>
</div><p>“For manufacturers, when volumes are that small and you can’t see a long-term future, there comes a point where you decide to do something else.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“对于制造商来说，当销量如此之小且看不到长期前景时，就会有一个时刻让你决定去做其他事情。”</p>
</div><p>Last year was also a reckoning for businesses that sought to dominate the vegan market.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>去年也是那些试图主导素食市场的企业的一个清算时刻。</p>
</div><p>In April, Neat Burger, the vegan burger chain backed by Leonardo DiCaprio and Lewis Hamilton, shut all of its UK restaurants after suffering substantial losses.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>四月，受到莱昂纳多·迪卡普里奥（Leonardo DiCaprio）和刘易斯·汉密尔顿（Lewis Hamilton）支持的素食汉堡连锁店 Neat Burger 在遭受重大损失后关闭了所有英国餐厅。</p>
</div><p>Yet Britain is not alone – vegan specialities have also vanished from menus across Europe.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>然而，英国并不是唯一一个面临这种情况的地方——素食特色菜品也在欧洲各地的菜单上消失。</p>
</div><p>The McDonald’s plant burger was quietly pulled from Austrian Branches in July while Domino’s shrank its vegan offering as part of a November relaunch.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>麦当劳的植物汉堡在七月悄然从奥地利的分店撤回，而多米诺比萨（Domino’s）在十一月重新推出时缩减了其素食产品。</p>
</div><p>Meat-free menus are only a cost-saver for restaurants if vegan dishes sell, says Grace Withers, of the Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board (AHDB) – but consumer appetite has been overestimated.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Grace Withers，农业与园艺发展委员会（AHDB）的成员表示，只有在素食菜品畅销的情况下，无肉菜单才能为餐厅节省成本，但消费者的胃口被高估了。</p>
</div><p>“Even when veganism was at its most popular, we saw far more people claiming to be vegan than actually managing to stick to it,” says Withers.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“即使在素食主义最受欢迎的时候，我们看到的声称自己是素食主义者的人远远超过了真正坚持下来的，” Withers 说。</p>
</div><p>“People often lapsed when they were hungry and wanted something tasty. We saw this during Veganuary as well.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“人们常常在饿的时候放弃，想吃点美味的东西。我们在素食一月（Veganuary）期间也看到了这一点。”</p>
</div><p>Only 1pc of those who signed up for Veganuary made it to the end of the month having stuck to the diet, according to the AHDB, a public body which supports farmers and growers.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>根据支持农民和种植者的公共机构 AHDB 的数据，只有 1% 的素食一月参与者坚持到月底。</p>
</div><p>Cost has also been a factor, as plant-based substitutes such as Quorn and tofu have increased in price more than cheaper meats in recent years.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>成本也是一个因素，因为植物性替代品如 Quorn 和豆腐的价格在近年来上涨幅度超过了便宜肉类的价格。</p>
</div><p>“Consumers are very price-driven because of the cost-of-living crisis,” says Withers. “Meat-free products are more expensive than pig meat and chicken, so they are not competing on price.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“由于生活成本危机，消费者非常关注价格，” Withers 说。“无肉产品的价格高于猪肉和鸡肉，因此它们在价格上没有竞争力。”</p>
</div><p>Compounding vegan woes is the fact that some health-conscious consumers have moved on to other fads.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>加剧素食困境的是一些健康意识强的消费者转向了其他潮流。</p>
</div><p>“As the trend for strength training continues to grow in popularity, protein intake has become more of a priority,” says Jenni Tardiff, a trainer at the Gym Group.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“随着力量训练趋势的持续流行，蛋白质摄入变得更加重要，” 健身集团（Gym Group）的教练 Jenni Tardiff 说。</p>
</div><p>Data from retail analyst Kantar show that 46pc of shoppers try to include high-protein in their diets, up from 38pc in 2022.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>来自零售分析师 Kantar 的数据表明，46% 的购物者试图在饮食中包含高蛋白食品，较 2022 年的 38% 有所上升。</p>
</div><p>Cultural headwinds have similarly shifted, particularly since Donald Trump re-entered the White House.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>文化的逆风同样发生了变化，尤其是在唐纳德·特朗普重新进入白宫之后。</p>
</div><p>The food pyramid unveiled by his health department earlier this month put dairy and healthy fats at the top.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>他卫生部门本月早些时候发布的食物金字塔将乳制品和健康脂肪置于顶部。</p>
</div><p>“We are seeing culture swing back towards celebrating real, simple food: red meat, butter and full-fat milk,” says Bia Bezamat, of Kantar. “Protein is easier to get from animal sources. Simplicity is resonating with people in a world that feels increasingly multi-layered and complex.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“我们看到文化开始回归，庆祝真实、简单的食物：红肉、黄油和全脂牛奶，” Kantar 的 Bia Bezamat 说。“从动物来源获取蛋白质更容易。在一个日益复杂的世界中，简单性与人们产生共鸣。”</p>
</div><p>The rise of weight-loss drugs has also been a factor, Bezamat says: “When you are on medication, you need to make sure you eat the nutrients you need and a diet as restrictive as veganism does not really support that.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>减肥药的兴起也是一个因素，Bezamat 说：“当你在服用药物时，你需要确保摄入所需的营养，而像素食主义这样限制性很大的饮食并不支持这一点。”</p>
</div><p>Elsewhere, a growing pushback against so-called “ultra-processed foods” has dented the popularity of meat-free substitutes.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>此外，针对所谓 “超加工食品” 的反弹也削弱了无肉替代品的受欢迎程度。</p>
</div><p>“When you look at the back of the pack on some vegan products, the list of ingredients is enormous,” says Futter.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“当你查看一些素食产品包装的背面时，成分列表非常庞大，” Futter 说。</p>
</div><p>“A large proportion of vegan products are made from things people don’t really recognise or understand. Brands and supermarkets have recognised that this is not what customers are looking for.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“大部分素食产品是由人们并不真正认识或理解的东西制成的。品牌和超市已经意识到这并不是顾客所寻找的。”</p>
</div><p>Despite the cut-through of the odd vegan product like oat milk, the hope of a wholesale vegan revolution has unravelled.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>尽管偶尔有像燕麦奶这样的素食产品脱颖而出，但全面的素食革命的希望已经破灭。</p>
</div><p>“I think there was an overestimation of how popular veganism would be,” says Bezamat, who compares it to the rise and fall of gluten-free diets.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“我认为对素食主义受欢迎程度的估计过高，” Bezamat 说，她将其与无麸质饮食的兴起和衰落进行了比较。</p>
</div><p>“That was the original restrictive diet, where there was initially very little offer and then suddenly lots of products,” she says. “Now it just sits there on the shelf.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“那是最初的限制性饮食，最初几乎没有产品供应，然后突然出现了大量产品，” 她说。“现在它只是静静地放在货架上。”</p>
</div>

素食热潮的衰退