<p>位于中国西部云南省的大理，餐厅顾客被这座历史城市丰富的优质食材所宠坏。冰箱里堆满了时令蔬菜、豆腐制品和新鲜肉类，顾客可以随意挑选，而炸内脏和鱼则在巨大的金属碗中争相吸引注意。浸泡在水中的水生蔬菜在地板上排成一排。这就是大理的农场到餐桌风格。\n 得益于温和的气候和多样的地形，云南适合种植各种农作物，从大米和鳄梨到西红柿和蓝莓。其烹饪实践同样多样，受到 20 多个民族传统的影响。\n 大理距离省会昆明乘火车仅需两个小时，丰收的季节和悠闲的生活节奏为烹饪实验提供了肥沃的土壤。\n 现代中餐厅 Youshi 的主厨常华在 2015 年完成烹饪学校学业后首次访问这座城市，渴望在远离家乡安徽省的地方开始新的生活。他在大理生活了十多年。\n 他在云南的时光是一连串的实验。他最初以临时餐饮业务起步，骑着电动车送炸饭。后来，他经营了几家麻辣烫（辛辣火锅）店、私人酒店厨房和一家小餐馆。\n\n 受到一次前往上海的旅行启发，他在 2020 年开设了 Youshi，在那里他品尝到了对中国西南菜肴的精致处理。\n“正是在大理，我慢慢重新找到了烹饪的乐趣，” 常华说。\n 这家餐厅位于一座坐落在山丘上的乡村房屋，俯瞰着洱海的广阔水域。房屋后面是他的农场，种植着各种各样的农作物：高大的羽衣甘蓝、低矮的南瓜、饱满的茄子和小巧的西红柿共同占据着这片空间。\n 像许多城市年轻人一样，常华对农业知之甚少，但他说团队正在边做边学。这种对耕种土地的新兴趣在大理的许多年轻厨师中得到了共鸣。\n 在大理的另一个角落，Trout Restaurant 以云南养殖的淡水虹鳟鱼命名。它由主厨兼老板徐凯开设，他是美国烹饪学院的毕业生，曾在纽约市的 Eleven Madison Park 和曼谷的 Gaggan 实习。\n 徐凯在 2022 年夏天首次访问大理。“当我品尝到当地的西红柿时，我知道这就是我想要的地方，” 他说。\n\n 在深圳的厨房短暂工作后，他于 2023 年 3 月返回，寻找餐厅的地点，并在当年晚些时候开设了 Trout Restaurant。\n 自那时以来，徐凯和他的团队维护着餐厅的 400 平方米（4300 平方英尺）农场，植物在活泼的鸡和一只山羊之间生长。\n 对徐凯来说，餐厅的内部装潢与云南的食物同样重要。团队花了四个月的时间将一个旧木工车间改造成他们的新家。桌椅由当地木材制成，灯具则由鱼笼和蜜蜂桶制作而成。为了确保亲密的用餐体验，Trout Restaurant 仅有四张桌子。\n 现场种植的草药和植物融入了菜单中。迷你蒸馏器将天竺葵叶转化为精油，香茅与玉米棒浸泡制成舒缓的茶，而越南香菜则被调成酱汁，与当地牛肉搭配。\n 农场仍在开发中，但餐厅已经开始使用自己的鸡蛋，鲜羊奶也即将到来。随着冬季的深入，南瓜、辣椒和豌豆苗开始出现在餐桌上，还有常见的草药如紫苏和香蜂草。\n 对于常华和徐凯来说，维护一个农场是理解事物生长过程的方式，从发芽到结果。他们都不声称自己是专家，但显然都乐于亲自动手。\n\n 在农场之外，广阔的烹饪可能性宇宙延展开来，受耕种的田野、采集的野生食材、传统饮食和来自世界各地的风味影响。\n“云南的食材简直是最好的——季节性、质量和多样性，” 徐凯说。“作为厨师，我们烹饪这些食材，但真正教会和塑造我们的是这些食材。”\n 我在 Trout Restaurant 享用的品尝菜单包含了来自云南的各种食材，包括酸蜂蜜（中国傣族的传统药方）、来自剑川的腌火腿、在澜沧江捕获的红尾鲶鱼，以及一种当地品种的花肉（冬瓜猪）所产的花肉。\n“许多大城市的高档餐厅非常注重云南的食材，” 常华说。“我们在这里生活和呼吸。我们有很好的条件展示这里的优质农产品。”\n 常华在大理生活了十多年，每年 11 月，他和团队都会出发探索省内不同的角落。几乎不可避免地，他们会发现新的风味或技术引起他们的注意。\n 常华接受作为外来者接触云南食物的限制和自由。“我并不是在做传统的云南菜。我尝试使用当地食材，借鉴当地的烹饪方式，但以新的方式呈现它们。创造是我擅长的。”\n\n 徐凯将他的餐厅视为那些开始发现云南丰富饮食文化的人的介绍。他希望提升云南在中国和更广阔世界的知名度，以此表达对这片土地和接纳他的人民的感激之情。\n“云南对来自全国各地的年轻人非常友好。当我第一次搬到这里时，我和一个当地的白族家庭住在一起，三代人同住一屋。他们热情好客，总是邀请我一起吃早餐，” 他说。\n 徐凯和常华象征着大理古城的转变，曾经在这里找到由来自其他地方的年轻厨师经营的新餐厅几乎是不可能的。如今，这座城市充满了新鲜的烹饪理念。\n“看到城市中更多的活力，所有新餐厅的出现真是太好了，” 来自大理北部约半小时车程的西洲林登中心教授游客烹饪的白族当地人康辉说。\n“与此同时，要真正体验大理，你必须去当地商店，尽情享受美食。”（某些新餐厅只提供时尚的小份菜。）\n\n 根据 WildChina 的休闲旅行客户服务负责人 Alice Zhang 的说法，因新冠疫情封锁多年，行业被迫创新。\n“云南美食逐渐走到了前台，” Zhang 说。“现在每个人都知道云南咖啡，这在疫情期间也迅速崛起。我们现在开始向游客介绍云南葡萄酒。”\n 在一千英里外的香港，云南的丰饶已经被广泛享用，从普洱茶到 TamJai 云南米线的面碗。11 月，云南菜在新开业的香港尖沙咀 Kimpton 酒店找到了一个意想不到的家，推出了由 Vicky Lau 创办的 Jija，这是一家受到中国西南省份（包括云南和贵州）风味启发的小酒馆。\nLau 在 2023 年首次访问云南时被云南的美食所吸引。\n“我之前怎么不知道云南呢？对每个厨师来说，找到全年可用的美丽食材是梦想，” Lau 说，怀抱着一盒云南种植的坚果。\n 尽管是法国菜的老手，Lau 渴望从不同的食材库中烹饪。“云南菜比其他地方的中国菜更清新和酸爽。草药、香料和调味品与我在法国烹饪中习惯的酱汁和肉汁截然不同，” 她说。\n\n 与大理的 Youshi 一样，Jija 也公开地将云南风味适应当地口味。云南食材与香港的审美相结合：蘑菇出现在沙拉、汤和炒菜中，新鲜的草药和香料为烤肉调味，而一份丰盛的炒饭则以云南腌火腿、干巴蘑菇和贵州风格的炸猪油为主打。\n 在大理、香港和中国其他地方，受到云南省所提供的谦卑启发的厨师们正在向当地人学习，融合新的风味和技术，创造出新鲜的烹饪体验。</p>

<p>大理，位于中国云南省，是一个美食天堂，拥有丰富多样的新鲜食材和多元的民族影响。像常华和徐凯这样的厨师正在他们的餐厅——优食和鳟鱼餐厅，将当地农产品转化为创新菜肴。两位厨师都强调农场到餐桌的做法的重要性，现场农场提供新鲜的蔬菜和香草。大理独特的气候和农业多样性激发了烹饪实验，使其成为寻求正宗风味和优质食材的美食冒险者的理想目的地</p>

<p>Restaurant-goers in Dali, in China’s western Yunnan province, are spoiled by the historical city’s abundance of quality ingredients. Fridges stacked with seasonal vegetables, tofu concoctions and fresh cuts of meat are common sights for diners to browse, while fried innards and fish vie for attention in giant metal bowls. Aquatic vegetables soaking in water line floors. This is farm-to-table, Dali style.\nThanks to its temperate climate and diverse terrain, Yunnan is suitable for growing all manner of produce, from rice and avocados to tomatillos and blueberries. Its culinary practices are equally varied, shaped by the traditions of over 20 ethnic communities that converge there.\nA two-hour train ride from the provincial capital Kunming, Dali, with its bountiful harvests and slower pace of life, is fertile ground for culinary experimentation.\nChang Hua, the chef behind Youshi, a modern Chinese restaurant, first visited the city after finishing culinary school in 2015, eager for a fresh start away from his home in Anhui province. He has called Dali home for over a decade.\nHis time in Yunnan has been a chain of experiments. He began with a makeshift catering business, delivering fried rice on his scooter. He later ran a couple of mala tang (spicy hotpot) businesses, private hotel kitchens and a small restaurant.\n\nInspired by a trip to Shanghai, where he tasted polished approaches to China’s southwestern cuisines, he opened Youshi in 2020.\n“It was in Dali [that] I slowly found joy in cooking again,” Chang says.\nThe restaurant is located in a rustic house perched on a hill overlooking the expansive waters of Erhai Lake. Just behind the house lies its farm, which is dotted with an eclectic mix of produce: tall stalks of kale, low-lying pumpkins, plump eggplants and petite tomatillos all share the space.\nLike many urban youths, Chang knew little about farming, but says the team is learning as they go. This newfound interest in cultivating the land is shared by many young chefs in Dali.\nTucked away in another corner of Dali is Trout Restaurant, named after the freshwater rainbow trout farmed in Yunnan. It was opened by chef-owner Xu Kai, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America who went on to intern at Eleven Madison Park in New York City and Gaggan in Bangkok.\nXu first visited Dali in the summer of 2022. “The moment I tasted a local tomato, I knew this was it,” he says.\n\nAfter a short stint in a Shenzhen kitchen, he returned in March 2023 to find a location for a restaurant, opening Trout Restaurant later that year.\nSince then, Xu and his team have maintained the restaurant’s 400 square metre (4,300 sq ft) farm, where plants grow amid rambunctious chickens and a goat.\nFor Xu, the restaurant’s interior speaks of Yunnan as much as the food. The team spent four months transforming an old wood workshop into their new home. Tables and chairs were crafted from local timber, while lamps were fashioned from fish cages and bee buckets. To ensure an intimate experience, Trout has just four tables.\nThe herbs and plants grown on-site seep into the menu. A mini distiller transforms geranium leaves into essential oil, lemongrass is steeped with corn cobs for a soothing tea, and Vietnamese coriander is blended into a sauce to pair with local beef.\nThe farm is still under development, but the restaurant already uses its own eggs, and fresh goat’s milk is coming soon. As winter deepens, pumpkins, peppers and pea shoots begin to grace the tables, along with perennial herbs like perilla and lemon balm.\nFor both Chang and Xu, maintaining a farm is a way to understand how things grow, from germination to fruition. Neither claims expertise, but both clearly relish getting their hands dirty.\n\nBeyond the farms stretches a vast universe of culinary possibilities, shaped by cultivated fields, foraged wilds, traditional diets and flavours imported from across the world.\n“Yunnan has simply the best ingredients – the seasonality, the quality, the diversity,” Xu says. “We as chefs cook the ingredients, but it’s really the ingredients that teach and shape us.”\nThe tasting menu at Trout I had that evening featured a wide range of ingredients from the province, including sour honey (a traditional remedy of China’s Dai people), cured ham from Jianchuan county, redtail catfish caught in the Lancang River, and marbled pork from a local breed called dong gua zhu (winter melon pig).\n“Many fine restaurants in bigger cities place a huge focus on ingredients from Yunnan,” Chang says. “We live and breathe here. We’re well positioned to showcase the quality of the produce here.”\nHaving lived in Dali for over a decade, Chang still sets out each November with his team to explore different corners of the province. Almost inevitably, a new flavour or technique will catch their attention.\nChang embraces the constraints and liberties of approaching Yunnan food as an outsider. “I am not making traditional Yunnan food. I try to work with local ingredients and borrow from local ways of cooking, but present them in new ways. Creating is what I’m good at.”\n\nXu views his restaurant as an introduction for those beginning to discover the richness of Yunnan’s food culture. He hopes to raise the profile of Yunnan in both China and the wider world as a gesture of gratitude to the land and people that took him in.\n“Yunnan is such a welcoming place for young people from all over the country. When I first moved here, I stayed with a local Bai family, three generations under one roof. They were endlessly hospitable, always inviting me to join them for breakfast,” he says.\nXu and Chang are symbolic of a shift in Dali’s old town, where finding new restaurants run by young chefs from elsewhere was once unthinkable. Today, the city hums with fresh culinary ideas.\n“It’s great to see more dynamism in the city, with all the new restaurants,” says Kang Hui, a Bai local who teaches cooking to visitors at the Linden Centre in Xizhou, a town about half an hour north of Dali by car.\n“At the same time, to truly experience Dali, you have to go out to the local shops and eat to your heart’s content.” (Certain new establishments offer only fashionably tiny portions.)\n\nAccording to Alice Zhang, head of leisure travel customer service at WildChina, years of lockdown due to the Covid pandemic pushed the industry to innovate.\n“Yunnan food gradually came to the forefront,” Zhang says. “Everyone now knows about Yunnan coffee, which also took off during the pandemic. We’re now starting to introduce travellers to Yunnan wine as well.”\nA thousand miles away in Hong Kong, Yunnan’s bounty is already widely enjoyed, from Pu’er tea to bowls of noodles at TamJai Yunnan Mixian. In November, its cuisine found an unlikely home at the newly opened Kimpton Tsim Sha Tsui Hong Kong, with the launch of Jija by Vicky Lau, a bistro inspired by flavours from China’s southwestern provinces, including Yunnan and Guizhou.\nLau was captivated by Yunnan’s food on her first visit in 2023.\n“How did I not know about Yunnan before? It’s every chef’s dream to find beautiful ingredients to work with year-round,” Lau says, cradling a box of hong guo shen, a sturdy berry grown in Yunnan.\nAlthough a veteran of French cuisine, Lau is eager to cook from a different pantry. “Yunnan food has more freshness and acidity than other regional Chinese cuisines. The herbs, spices and dips are so different from what I’m used to in French cooking, with its sauces and meat jus,” she says.\n\nLike Youshi in Dali, Jija openly adapts Yunnan flavours for local tastes. Yunnanese ingredients meet Hong Kong sensibilities: mushrooms appear in salads, soups and stir-fries, fresh herbs and spices season grilled meats, and a hearty fried rice with Yunnan cured ham, ganba mushrooms and Guizhou-style fried pork fat anchors the menu.\nIn Dali, Hong Kong and elsewhere across China, chefs who find themselves humbled by what Yunnan province offers are learning from locals and blending new flavours and techniques to create fresh culinary experiences.\n</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>位于中国西部云南省的大理，餐厅顾客被这座历史城市丰富的优质食材所宠坏。冰箱里堆满了时令蔬菜、豆腐制品和新鲜肉类，顾客可以随意挑选，而炸内脏和鱼则在巨大的金属碗中争相吸引注意。浸泡在水中的水生蔬菜在地板上排成一排。这就是大理的农场到餐桌风格。\n 得益于温和的气候和多样的地形，云南适合种植各种农作物，从大米和鳄梨到西红柿和蓝莓。其烹饪实践同样多样，受到 20 多个民族传统的影响。\n 大理距离省会昆明乘火车仅需两个小时，丰收的季节和悠闲的生活节奏为烹饪实验提供了肥沃的土壤。\n 现代中餐厅 Youshi 的主厨常华在 2015 年完成烹饪学校学业后首次访问这座城市，渴望在远离家乡安徽省的地方开始新的生活。他在大理生活了十多年。\n 他在云南的时光是一连串的实验。他最初以临时餐饮业务起步，骑着电动车送炸饭。后来，他经营了几家麻辣烫（辛辣火锅）店、私人酒店厨房和一家小餐馆。\n\n 受到一次前往上海的旅行启发，他在 2020 年开设了 Youshi，在那里他品尝到了对中国西南菜肴的精致处理。\n“正是在大理，我慢慢重新找到了烹饪的乐趣，” 常华说。\n 这家餐厅位于一座坐落在山丘上的乡村房屋，俯瞰着洱海的广阔水域。房屋后面是他的农场，种植着各种各样的农作物：高大的羽衣甘蓝、低矮的南瓜、饱满的茄子和小巧的西红柿共同占据着这片空间。\n 像许多城市年轻人一样，常华对农业知之甚少，但他说团队正在边做边学。这种对耕种土地的新兴趣在大理的许多年轻厨师中得到了共鸣。\n 在大理的另一个角落，Trout Restaurant 以云南养殖的淡水虹鳟鱼命名。它由主厨兼老板徐凯开设，他是美国烹饪学院的毕业生，曾在纽约市的 Eleven Madison Park 和曼谷的 Gaggan 实习。\n 徐凯在 2022 年夏天首次访问大理。“当我品尝到当地的西红柿时，我知道这就是我想要的地方，” 他说。\n\n 在深圳的厨房短暂工作后，他于 2023 年 3 月返回，寻找餐厅的地点，并在当年晚些时候开设了 Trout Restaurant。\n 自那时以来，徐凯和他的团队维护着餐厅的 400 平方米（4300 平方英尺）农场，植物在活泼的鸡和一只山羊之间生长。\n 对徐凯来说，餐厅的内部装潢与云南的食物同样重要。团队花了四个月的时间将一个旧木工车间改造成他们的新家。桌椅由当地木材制成，灯具则由鱼笼和蜜蜂桶制作而成。为了确保亲密的用餐体验，Trout Restaurant 仅有四张桌子。\n 现场种植的草药和植物融入了菜单中。迷你蒸馏器将天竺葵叶转化为精油，香茅与玉米棒浸泡制成舒缓的茶，而越南香菜则被调成酱汁，与当地牛肉搭配。\n 农场仍在开发中，但餐厅已经开始使用自己的鸡蛋，鲜羊奶也即将到来。随着冬季的深入，南瓜、辣椒和豌豆苗开始出现在餐桌上，还有常见的草药如紫苏和香蜂草。\n 对于常华和徐凯来说，维护一个农场是理解事物生长过程的方式，从发芽到结果。他们都不声称自己是专家，但显然都乐于亲自动手。\n\n 在农场之外，广阔的烹饪可能性宇宙延展开来，受耕种的田野、采集的野生食材、传统饮食和来自世界各地的风味影响。\n“云南的食材简直是最好的——季节性、质量和多样性，” 徐凯说。“作为厨师，我们烹饪这些食材，但真正教会和塑造我们的是这些食材。”\n 我在 Trout Restaurant 享用的品尝菜单包含了来自云南的各种食材，包括酸蜂蜜（中国傣族的传统药方）、来自剑川的腌火腿、在澜沧江捕获的红尾鲶鱼，以及一种当地品种的花肉（冬瓜猪）所产的花肉。\n“许多大城市的高档餐厅非常注重云南的食材，” 常华说。“我们在这里生活和呼吸。我们有很好的条件展示这里的优质农产品。”\n 常华在大理生活了十多年，每年 11 月，他和团队都会出发探索省内不同的角落。几乎不可避免地，他们会发现新的风味或技术引起他们的注意。\n 常华接受作为外来者接触云南食物的限制和自由。“我并不是在做传统的云南菜。我尝试使用当地食材，借鉴当地的烹饪方式，但以新的方式呈现它们。创造是我擅长的。”\n\n 徐凯将他的餐厅视为那些开始发现云南丰富饮食文化的人的介绍。他希望提升云南在中国和更广阔世界的知名度，以此表达对这片土地和接纳他的人民的感激之情。\n“云南对来自全国各地的年轻人非常友好。当我第一次搬到这里时，我和一个当地的白族家庭住在一起，三代人同住一屋。他们热情好客，总是邀请我一起吃早餐，” 他说。\n 徐凯和常华象征着大理古城的转变，曾经在这里找到由来自其他地方的年轻厨师经营的新餐厅几乎是不可能的。如今，这座城市充满了新鲜的烹饪理念。\n“看到城市中更多的活力，所有新餐厅的出现真是太好了，” 来自大理北部约半小时车程的西洲林登中心教授游客烹饪的白族当地人康辉说。\n“与此同时，要真正体验大理，你必须去当地商店，尽情享受美食。”（某些新餐厅只提供时尚的小份菜。）\n\n 根据 WildChina 的休闲旅行客户服务负责人 Alice Zhang 的说法，因新冠疫情封锁多年，行业被迫创新。\n“云南美食逐渐走到了前台，” Zhang 说。“现在每个人都知道云南咖啡，这在疫情期间也迅速崛起。我们现在开始向游客介绍云南葡萄酒。”\n 在一千英里外的香港，云南的丰饶已经被广泛享用，从普洱茶到 TamJai 云南米线的面碗。11 月，云南菜在新开业的香港尖沙咀 Kimpton 酒店找到了一个意想不到的家，推出了由 Vicky Lau 创办的 Jija，这是一家受到中国西南省份（包括云南和贵州）风味启发的小酒馆。\nLau 在 2023 年首次访问云南时被云南的美食所吸引。\n“我之前怎么不知道云南呢？对每个厨师来说，找到全年可用的美丽食材是梦想，” Lau 说，怀抱着一盒云南种植的坚果。\n 尽管是法国菜的老手，Lau 渴望从不同的食材库中烹饪。“云南菜比其他地方的中国菜更清新和酸爽。草药、香料和调味品与我在法国烹饪中习惯的酱汁和肉汁截然不同，” 她说。\n\n 与大理的 Youshi 一样，Jija 也公开地将云南风味适应当地口味。云南食材与香港的审美相结合：蘑菇出现在沙拉、汤和炒菜中，新鲜的草药和香料为烤肉调味，而一份丰盛的炒饭则以云南腌火腿、干巴蘑菇和贵州风格的炸猪油为主打。\n 在大理、香港和中国其他地方，受到云南省所提供的谦卑启发的厨师们正在向当地人学习，融合新的风味和技术，创造出新鲜的烹饪体验。</p>
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为什么中国云南省的大理是美食探险者的理想之地