<h3>对手工织物和精致刺绣的日益青睐反映了社会的变化和对不同事物的渴望，这种趋势已经开始渗透到大众市场零售商中。</h3>
<p>男士时尚正在接受刺绣和手工纺织品，这些曾被视为过时或女性化的元素，现代印度品牌正准备从这一由时装秀和名人驱动的趋势中受益。</p>
<p>刺绣是亚洲或中东传统服装以及西方高级定制的历史主流，但它在巴黎、米兰或纽约的现代男士衬衫、飞行员夹克或西装外套中越来越常见。Dior、Dolce &amp; Gabbana、Kenzo 或 Gucci 的设计师在最近的时装秀中采用了这一元素，而路易威登的名人说唱设计师 Pharell Williams 在访问印度后将整个六月系列献给了印度。</p>
<p>在巴黎男士时装周上，新德里总部的 Kartik Research 举行了第二场秀，去年首次加入全球最负盛名的时尚日历，以现代视角展示传统面料和工艺。</p>
<p>“我们正在建立一种具有这种势头并受到如此欣赏的事物，这很酷，” 创始人 Kartik Kumra 在秀前采访中说道。</p>
<p>这位 26 岁的小伙子去年在纽约开设了旗舰店，曾为演员 Paul Mescal 和说唱歌手 Kendrick Lamar 提供服务，他将巴黎的展示比作在欧洲冠军联赛中踢球。</p>
<p>“能够到达那里，意味着你做对了什么。而一旦你在那里，你就想在其中表现出色，这会推动你，” 他说。</p>
<p>Kardo 的创始人 Rikki Kher 表示，男性对手工织物或精致刺绣的喜好反映了社会的变化和行业对新奇事物的渴望。</p>
<p>“时尚是通过音乐和年轻人驱动的，年轻人变得更加性别流动，” Kher 说，他自 2013 年以来一直倡导手工艺艺术纺织品。</p>
<p>刺绣似乎正走在手袋和珠宝的同一路线上，这些元素在过去几年中进入了男士时尚，并模糊了行业的传统性别界限。</p>
<p>这种热情也反映了对 “工作服” 或 “低调奢华” 的兴趣减退，这些趋势多年来主导了男装，以其简单且常常单色的面料为特点。</p>
<p>“男士们正在寻找不同的东西，” Kher 说，他在时装周期间展示了他的秋冬系列。“他们能够更好地表达自己。”</p>
<p>他说，他最近发现大众市场零售商 Zara 和 Marks &amp; Spencer 正在销售刺绣衬衫——这表明这一趋势已经从时装秀渗透到高街。其他帮助现代化印度工艺传统的品牌包括 11.11/Eleven Eleven、Pero、Mii 和 Rkive City。</p>
<p>西方买家也注意到了这些变化。</p>
<p>“我们刚刚经历了几个更中性的季节……现在我们想用图案和颜色重新改造一切，” 巴黎时尚商店 Le Bon Marche 和 La Samaritaine 的男装负责人 Franck Nauerz 说。“刺绣，特别是印度起源的刺绣，确实是一种趋势。”</p>
<p>在澳大利亚墨尔本经营 PPHH 时尚商店的 Carlan Pickings 表示，她看到需求和男士风格在过去几年中发生了根本性的变化。</p>
<p>“十年前，我们绝对不会相信我们现在会购买刺绣、色彩丰富、花卉图案的东西，” 她说，并补充说她的客户希望 “有趣的东西，但也有背后的故事。”</p>
<p>“我们在过去五年中看到的变化，尤其是来自印度市场，但也包括日本，真的很有趣，” Pickings 说。</p>

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<p>男士时尚正从传统的中性色转向拥抱刺绣和手工纺织品，反映了社会变迁和对新奇事物的渴望。像迪奥和古驰这样的设计师正在将这些元素融入他们的系列中，而印度品牌如 Kartik Research 和 Kardo 也逐渐获得认可。这一趋势标志着从工作服向更具表现力的风格转变，大众市场零售商也开始采用刺绣设计。男士时尚的这一演变突显了人们对图案和颜色日益增长的兴趣，尤其是那些源自印度的元素，因为消费者寻求具有故事背景的独特单品</p>

<h3>The emerging taste for handwoven fabrics and intricate embroidery reflects a change in society and a desire for something different, which has begun trickling down to mass-market retailers</h3>
<div class="lb-trans"><h3>对手工织物和精致刺绣的日益青睐反映了社会的变化和对不同事物的渴望，这种趋势已经开始渗透到大众市场零售商中。</h3>
</div><p>Men’s fashion is embracing embroidery and handcrafted textiles that were once viewed as old-fashioned or feminine, with a clutch of modern Indian brands poised to benefit from the catwalk and celebrity-driven trend.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>男士时尚正在接受刺绣和手工纺织品，这些曾被视为过时或女性化的元素，现代印度品牌正准备从这一由时装秀和名人驱动的趋势中受益。</p>
</div><p>Embroidery is a historic mainstay of traditional clothing in Asia or the Middle East, as well as Western haute couture, but it is increasingly present in Paris, Milan or New York on modern men’s shirts, bomber jackets or blazers. Designers at Dior, Dolce &amp; Gabbana, Kenzo or Gucci have adopted it in recent runway shows, while Louis Vuitton’s celebrity rapper-designer Pharell Williams dedicated his entire June collection to India after visiting the country.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>刺绣是亚洲或中东传统服装以及西方高级定制的历史主流，但它在巴黎、米兰或纽约的现代男士衬衫、飞行员夹克或西装外套中越来越常见。Dior、Dolce &amp; Gabbana、Kenzo 或 Gucci 的设计师在最近的时装秀中采用了这一元素，而路易威登的名人说唱设计师 Pharell Williams 在访问印度后将整个六月系列献给了印度。</p>
</div><p>At Men’s Fashion Week in Paris on Thursday, New Delhi-based Kartik Research put on its second show, having joined the world’s most prestigious style calendar for the first time last year with its modern take on traditional fabrics and crafts.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在巴黎男士时装周上，新德里总部的 Kartik Research 举行了第二场秀，去年首次加入全球最负盛名的时尚日历，以现代视角展示传统面料和工艺。</p>
</div><p>“It’s cool that we’re building something that has this momentum and is being appreciated in the way that it is,” founder Kartik Kumra said during a pre-show interview.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“我们正在建立一种具有这种势头并受到如此欣赏的事物，这很酷，” 创始人 Kartik Kumra 在秀前采访中说道。</p>
</div><p>The 26-year-old, who opened a flagship store in New York last year and counts actor Paul Mescal and rapper Kendrick Lamar as past clients, likens showing in Paris to being a footballer in the European Champions League.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这位 26 岁的小伙子去年在纽约开设了旗舰店，曾为演员 Paul Mescal 和说唱歌手 Kendrick Lamar 提供服务，他将巴黎的展示比作在欧洲冠军联赛中踢球。</p>
</div><p>“Just to get there, it means you’re doing something right. And then once you’re there, you want to do well in it, and so it pushes you,” he said.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“能够到达那里，意味着你做对了什么。而一旦你在那里，你就想在其中表现出色，这会推动你，” 他说。</p>
</div><p>Kardo founder Rikki Kher said the taste for handwoven fabrics or intricate embroidery among men reflected societal change and the industry’s desire for novelty.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Kardo 的创始人 Rikki Kher 表示，男性对手工织物或精致刺绣的喜好反映了社会的变化和行业对新奇事物的渴望。</p>
</div><p>“Fashion is driven through music and young people, and young people are becoming more gender fluid,” said Kher, who has championed hand-crafted artisanal textiles since 2013.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“时尚是通过音乐和年轻人驱动的，年轻人变得更加性别流动，” Kher 说，他自 2013 年以来一直倡导手工艺艺术纺织品。</p>
</div><p>Embroidery appears to be on the same route as handbags and jewellery, which have entered men’s fashion over the past few years and blurred the industry’s traditional gender lines.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>刺绣似乎正走在手袋和珠宝的同一路线上，这些元素在过去几年中进入了男士时尚，并模糊了行业的传统性别界限。</p>
</div><p>The enthusiasm also reflects a loss of interest in “workwear” or “quiet luxury,” trends that have dominated menswear for years with their simple and often monochrome fabrics.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这种热情也反映了对 “工作服” 或 “低调奢华” 的兴趣减退，这些趋势多年来主导了男装，以其简单且常常单色的面料为特点。</p>
</div><p>“Guys are looking for something different,” said Kher, who was showcasing his Fall/Winter collection in Paris during Fashion Week. “They’re able to express themselves a bit more.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“男士们正在寻找不同的东西，” Kher 说，他在时装周期间展示了他的秋冬系列。“他们能够更好地表达自己。”</p>
</div><p>He said he recently spotted mass-market retailers Zara and Marks &amp; Spencer selling embroidered shirts — a sign that the trend has trickled down from catwalks to the high street. Other Indian brands helping modernize their country’s craft traditions include 11.11/Eleven Eleven, Pero, Mii or Rkive City.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>他说，他最近发现大众市场零售商 Zara 和 Marks &amp; Spencer 正在销售刺绣衬衫——这表明这一趋势已经从时装秀渗透到高街。其他帮助现代化印度工艺传统的品牌包括 11.11/Eleven Eleven、Pero、Mii 和 Rkive City。</p>
</div><p>Western buyers have also noted the changes.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>西方买家也注意到了这些变化。</p>
</div><p>“We’re coming out of a few seasons that were more on the neutral side ... Now we want to revamp everything with patterns and colors,” said Franck Nauerz, head of menswear at Paris fashion stores Le Bon Marche and La Samaritaine. “There’s a real trend for embroidery, particularly of Indian origin.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“我们刚刚经历了几个更中性的季节……现在我们想用图案和颜色重新改造一切，” 巴黎时尚商店 Le Bon Marche 和 La Samaritaine 的男装负责人 Franck Nauerz 说。“刺绣，特别是印度起源的刺绣，确实是一种趋势。”</p>
</div><p>Carlan Pickings, who runs the PPHH fashion store in Melbourne, Australia, said she had seen demand and men’s styles change radically over the past few years.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在澳大利亚墨尔本经营 PPHH 时尚商店的 Carlan Pickings 表示，她看到需求和男士风格在过去几年中发生了根本性的变化。</p>
</div><p>“Ten years ago, we’d never have believed that we’d now be buying things that were embroidered, colorful, floral,” she said, adding that her clients want “something interesting, but that also has a story behind it.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“十年前，我们绝对不会相信我们现在会购买刺绣、色彩丰富、花卉图案的东西，” 她说，并补充说她的客户希望 “有趣的东西，但也有背后的故事。”</p>
</div><p>“The changes we’ve seen in the last five years, particularly coming out of the Indian market, but also Japan, are really interesting,” Pickings said.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“我们在过去五年中看到的变化，尤其是来自印度市场，但也包括日本，真的很有趣，” Pickings 说。</p>
</div>

男装风格从传统的中性色调转向刺绣设计