<p>隨着中國傳統烈酒和高端葡萄酒消費的下降，飲料市場正在發生重大變化。本系列文章分為三部分，探討了茅台鎮面臨的挑戰，曾經備受追捧的白酒失去光彩的原因，經濟封鎖對歐洲葡萄酒進口的影響，以及精釀啤酒作為尋求高品質但不想花費過多的消費者的經濟實惠替代品的崛起。\n 在農曆九月初九，雨季通常結束，赤水河的水清澈見底，位於中國貴州省的茅台鎮的白酒釀酒廠舉行盛大的儀式，開啓年度釀造週期。\n 這是一個吉祥的時刻，中國慶祝重陽節——也稱為雙九節，因為九與相當積極的能量相關。釀酒廠藉助節日的氣氛，將第一批壓碎的紅高粱——他們高濃度烈酒的主要原料——投入發酵池中。\n 但今年，作為中國酒都的茅台鎮的節日氣氛大為減弱。持續的降雨和濃霧籠罩着這個地方，似乎映射出全國白酒行業的長期低迷。\n 在假期的 10 月 29 日，該鎮奢華旗艦產品——由貴州茅台公司生產並以 “茅台飛天” 品牌銷售——的批發價格降至觀察者所稱的近年來的新低。\n 這家國有巨頭的名字源於貴州茅台的較早羅馬化名稱，面臨着越來越大的壓力。根據居民的説法，曾經超過 1000 家小型釀酒廠中的幾百家已經在過去幾年中被迫關閉，現存的僅佔一小部分。\n“我們不知道這是否是長期轉型，還是春天到來之前的暫時冬天，” 當地釀酒廠長虹的老闆羅佳佳説。她的家族經營着一家名為 Longhoom 的釀酒廠。“坦率地説，我們也感到困惑，正在經歷一個不確定的時期。”\n 該行業的掙扎反映了國內消費疲軟，但更深層次的變化也在發生。年輕的中國人拒絕強迫飲酒的規範，而北京最新的緊縮措施部分禁止在官方宴會上飲酒——這對白酒的傳統需求驅動因素造成了雙重打擊。對於釀酒廠來説，重新品牌化和尋找新市場的過程變得至關重要。\n 與其他以白酒生產而聞名的城鎮相比，茅台特別容易受到北京對共產黨紀律的收緊的影響。幾十年來，國有的貴州茅台的繁榮與公共部門的採購密切相關，而這些採購對價格基本上不敏感。該公司的成功催生了無數小型酒類製造商和商人。走在鎮上，發現這裏買白酒比買瓶裝水更容易。\n 茅台鎮在歷史上也具有重要意義，是一個紅色旅遊景點，與長征有着深厚的聯繫——這是 1934 年至 1936 年間共產黨紅軍從國民黨軍隊大規模撤退的過程。將軍耿飈（1909-2000）在他的回憶錄中説：“一些士兵買了 [茅台生產的白酒] 來提神，一些則用它 [塗抹] 在腳上以放鬆肌肉和促進血液循環。”\n 在更近的歷史中，茅台鎮經常舉辦公共官員的團隊建設活動。許多人會訪問小商店，購買相對實惠的大宗白酒，通常作為紀念品或禮物。但幾位店主表示，這種訪問已經減少，當它們發生時，遊客更猶豫於脱離導遊的行程去購買酒。\n 如今，貴州茅台和鎮上剩餘的小型釀酒廠面臨着自己版本的長征——努力擺脱對官方、公共部門和他們長期依賴的飲酒文化的依賴。\n“總之，酒在中國的表達方式確實需要重建，” 中國酒類協會秘書長何勇在上個月的茅台鎮赤水河論壇上表示。“我們常説，世界各地的飲酒有兩個目的：取悦他人或取悦自己。中國以其主要以社交為驅動的飲酒文化而獨樹一幟。\n“然而，我們正在目睹一種從取悦他人轉向取悦自己的轉變，尤其是在年輕一代中。”\n“過去，我們主要關注企業對企業的交易。但現在，我們也需要一個面向終端用户的渠道。”\n 羅佳佳，長虹釀酒廠\n 與此同時，貴州茅台已開始與奢華和腐敗的形象保持距離，同時推出針對年輕消費者的產品——從白酒口味的冰淇淋到與中國最大的咖啡連鎖店瑞幸咖啡合作的酒精咖啡拿鐵。\n 隨着中國迅速老齡化，這一轉變變得更加緊迫。核心白酒消費者羣體——通常是 30 至 55 歲的人羣——在過去五年中減少了約 2800 萬，中央財經大學首席經濟學家李迅雷在同一活動中表示。\n 本月，為了扭轉白酒行業的疲軟狀態，貴州發佈了一項為期三年的計劃，將該行業的框架從單純的 “賣酒” 轉變為推廣更廣泛的以白酒為中心的 “生活方式”。該戰略包括將白酒與旅遊、體育、文化活動和健康服務相結合，開發低酒精、果味白酒和中式雞尾酒。\n 但與行業巨頭相比，缺乏廣泛認可品牌的小型生產商在推出新產品時面臨更大的挑戰。\n“我們只能專注於擴大銷售渠道，” 長虹的羅佳佳説。\n 三年前，羅的家族從不需要擔心分銷：商人和公司直接購買成品，釀酒廠通常需要排隊等待包裝材料。今年，在重陽節前一天，羅在鎮廣場附近的一個政府組織的白酒博覽會上設立了一個小攤位，試圖吸引路過的遊客。\n“過去，我們主要關注企業對企業的交易，” 她説。“但現在，我們也需要一個面向終端用户的渠道。”\n\n 其他當地白酒製造商正在嘗試在社交媒體上改變人們的看法。在赤水河旁的千泰釀酒廠，經理肖帥在抖音上發佈視頻，展示釀酒廠的日常操作——從蒸煮到發酵——同時也對中國的飲酒文化進行自己的評論。\n“我不認為年輕人迴避白酒僅僅是因為他們拒絕烈酒，” 肖説。“許多人仍然喜歡去酒吧喝朗姆酒、雞尾酒、威士忌或軒尼詩，但實際上那些也是烈酒。\n“只是他們更喜歡不在權威或高壓的情況下被迫過量飲酒。”\n 與其他面臨國內需求疲軟的行業一樣，白酒生產商也在關注海外市場。與其他烈酒類別不同，中國白酒在很大程度上依賴於國內市場。但行業內部人士表示，隨着 Z 世代對輕飲酒的全球趨勢，挑戰依然存在。\n 貴州茅台在海外市場的探索中處於領先地位，甚至在 6 月的巴黎 Viva Technology 大會上亮相。目前，該公司在中國企業集中海外擴張的地區加大了市場努力，公司董事王莉本月告訴投資者。\n 消費場景的喪失、習慣的轉變和不兼容的商業模式意味着該行業正處於關鍵的轉型點，王説。\n“儘管面臨眾多困難和挑戰，但這也為行業重新啓動、重塑和重新調整自身以更好地適應市場、滿足需求和促進發展提供了寶貴的機會，” 王補充道。\n\n 在地方政府、商會和行業協會的指導下，小品牌也通過參加海外葡萄酒博覽會和貿易展覽加入了這一運動。\n 許多白酒生產商首先將香港和東南亞作為擴展的重點。在 11 月初，十多家貴州釀酒廠參加了香港國際葡萄酒與烈酒博覽會。\n“在東南亞國家，人們對中國文化相對熟悉，因此向這些市場出口應該是可行的，” 羅説。“關鍵問題是當地經濟是否能夠承受。”\n 對於茅台鎮的許多人來説，四年前市場繁榮的記憶仍然鮮明。貴州茅台的批發價格是現在的兩倍多。不僅僅是酒，這種烈酒被視為 “液體黃金”——在送禮時的地位象徵，鎖在保險箱裏的收藏品，或是以其價值會升值的投資。\n 行業內部人士指出，白酒是一個週期性行業，約五年一個週期，但許多人懷疑之前的狂熱是否會再度迴歸。\n“我認為只有在中國，酒才會被附加上金融價值。畢竟，它並不是真正的黃金，對吧？” 千泰釀酒廠的肖説。“現在我們逐漸看到它迴歸到其基本價值”——飲用的東西。\n“在我看來，這正是它應該有的樣子。”</p>

貴州茅台

<p>中國的白酒行業以茅台鎮為中心，面臨消費下降、經濟轉型和文化規範變化等挑戰。貴州茅台公司和一些小型釀酒廠正在苦苦掙扎，因為年輕的中國人拒絕傳統的飲酒習俗，而節儉措施限制了官方活動中的酒精消費。該行業正試圖重新品牌化並尋找新市場，努力通過創新產品吸引年輕消費者，例如白酒口味的冰淇淋和酒精飲料拿鐵</p>

<p>As China’s traditional spirits and premium wines grapple with declining consumption, a significant shift is under way across the beverage landscape. This three-part series examines the challenges faced by Maotai town as its once-coveted baijiu loses its lustre, the impact of economic shutdowns on European wine imports, and the rise of craft beer as a budget-friendly alternative for consumers seeking quality without breaking the bank.\nOn the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, when the rainy season has typically come to an end and the waters of the Chishui River run clear, baijiu distilleries in Maotai town in China’s Guizhou province stage elaborate ceremonies to kick off the annual brewing cycle.\nIt is an auspicious time when China celebrates the Chung Yeung Festival – also known as the Double Ninth Festival, as nine is associated with considerable positive energy. And distilleries capitalise on the festivities by feeding the first batch of crushed red sorghum – the main raw material for their high-proof fiery spirits – into fermentation pits.\nBut this year, the festive mood in what is known as China’s liquor capital was largely tempered. Relentless rain and thick fog settled in, seemingly mirroring a prolonged downturn across the baijiu sector nationwide.\nOn the holiday, October 29, the wholesale price of the town’s luxurious flagship product – made by the Kweichow Moutai Company and marketed as Moutai Flying Fairy – fell to what observers described as a new low in recent years.\nThe state-backed giant, whose name derives from an older romanisation of Guizhou Maotai, has come under mounting pressure. And several hundred of what were once more than 1,000 smaller distilleries in the town have already been forced to shut down in the last several years, leaving only a fraction in operation, according to residents.\n“We don’t know if this is a long-term transformation or just a temporary winter before spring returns,” said Luo Jiajia, whose family runs a local distillery, Changhong, which operates under the English brand name Longhoom. “Frankly, we’re also at a loss and navigating a period of uncertainty.”\n\nThe sector’s struggle reflects weak domestic consumption, but deeper shifts are also at play. Younger Chinese are rejecting forced-drinking norms, and Beijing’s latest austerity measures, in part, ban alcohol at official banquets – a double blow to the traditional demand drivers of baijiu. For distilleries, the process of rebranding and finding new markets has become existential.\nCompared with other towns also known for baijiu production, Maotai is especially exposed to Beijing’s tightening grip on Communist Party discipline. For decades, the state-owned Kweichow Moutai’s prosperity was linked to public-sector purchases that were largely indifferent to prices. And the firm’s success gave rise to myriad smaller liquor makers and merchants. A stroll through town finds it is easier here to buy baijiu than bottled water.\nMaotai town also holds historical significance as a red-tourism site, with a deep connection to the Long March – the large-scale military retreat by the Communist Party’s Red Army from the Kuomintang, or Nationalist, forces from 1934 to 1936. General Geng Biao (1909-2000) said in his memoir: “Some soldiers bought [baijiu made in Maotai] to refresh themselves, some rubbed [it on] their feet to relax the muscles and stimulate blood circulation.”\nAnd in more recent history, Maotai town frequently hosted team-building activities among public officials. Many would visit small shops to purchase relatively affordable bulk baijiu, often as souvenirs or gifts. But several shop owners say such visits have dwindled, and when they do occur, visitors are more hesitant to break away from guided tours to buy liquor.\nToday, Kweichow Moutai and the remaining small distilleries in the township face their own version of a long march – striving to break free from a reliance on officialdom, the public sector and a drinking culture that they long depended on.\n“In short, the way liquor is expressed [in China] truly needs reconstruction,” said He Yong, secretary general of the China Alcoholic Drinks Association, an industry group. He was speaking last month at the Chishui River Forum in Maotai town. “We often say that drinking around the world serves two purposes: to please others or to please oneself. China stands out for its predominantly social-driven drinking culture.\n“Yet, we are witnessing a shift from pleasing others to pleasing oneself, especially among the younger generation.”\nIn the past, we primarily focused on business-to-business. But now, we also need an outlet for end users\nLuo Jiajia, Changhong distillery\nAt the same time, Kweichow Moutai has moved to distance itself from images of extravagance and corruption, while launching products aimed at younger consumers – from baijiu-flavoured ice cream, to alcohol-infused lattes in a partnership with China’s biggest coffee chain, Luckin Coffee.\nThe pivot has become more urgent as China rapidly ages. The core baijiu consumer cohort – typically people in the 30-55 age range – has shrunk by about 28 million over the past five years, said Li Xunlei, chief economist at Zhongtai International, at the same event.\nThis month, in an effort to reverse the weakened state of the baijiu industry, Guizhou issued a three-year plan to reframe the sector from merely “selling liquor” to promoting a broader baijiu-centred “lifestyle”. The strategy includes integrating baijiu with tourism, sports, cultural events and wellness services, and developing low-alcohol, fruit-infused baijiu and Chinese-style cocktails.\nBut compared with industry giants, smaller producers without widely recognised brands face steeper challenges in launching new products.\n“We can only focus on expanding sales channels,” said Luo at Changhong.\nThree years ago, Luo’s family never had to worry about distribution: merchants and companies bought finished products directly, and distilleries often had to queue for packaging supplies. This year, a day before Chung Yeung, Luo manned a small stall at a government-organised baijiu fair near the town square in a bid to entice passing tourists.\n“In the past, we primarily focused on business-to-business,” she said. “But now, we also need an outlet for end users.”\n\nOther local baijiu makers are trying to change perceptions on social media. At the Qiantai distillery by the Chishui River, manager Xiao Shuai posts videos to Douyin, the Chinese version of TikTok, showing the distillery’s daily operations – from steaming to fermentation – while also offering his own commentary on China’s drinking culture.\n“I don’t think young people avoid baijiu simply because they reject strong alcoholic drinks,” Xiao said. “Many still enjoy going to bars to drink rum, cocktails, whisky or Hennessy, but actually those are also strong.\n“It’s just that they prefer not to be in authoritative or high-pressure situations where they’re forced to drink excessively.”\nLike other domestic sectors facing sluggish domestic demand, baijiu producers are also eyeing overseas markets. Unlike other spirits categories, Chinese baijiu is overwhelmingly dependent on the home market. But challenges remain amid a global trend by Generation Z towards lighter drinking, industry insiders say.\nKweichow Moutai has been taking the lead in the quest overseas, even making an appearance at Paris’ Viva Technology conference in June. Currently, the firm has intensified its market efforts in regions where Chinese enterprises are concentrating their overseas expansion, company director Wang Li told investors this month.\nA loss of consumption scenarios, shifting habits and incompatible business models mean the industry is at a critical transformation point, Wang said.\n“Despite numerous difficulties and challenges, it also represents a valuable opportunity for the industry to restart, reinvent and realign itself to better adapt to the market, meet demand and foster development,” Wang added.\n\nSmaller brands, under the guidance of local governments, commerce chambers and industry associations, have also joined the campaign by participating in overseas wine expos and trade fairs.\nMany baijiu producers first prioritise Hong Kong and Southeast Asia in expansion efforts. In early November, more than a dozen Guizhou distilleries attended the Hong Kong International Wine &amp; Spirits Fair.\n“In Southeast Asian countries, people are relatively familiar with Chinese culture, so exporting to these markets should be feasible,” Luo said. “The key question is whether local economies can afford it.”\nFor many in Maotai town, memories of a booming market just four years ago still burn bright in their minds. The wholesale price of Kweichow Moutai was more than twice what it is now. More than just liquor, the spirit was treated as “liquid gold” – a status symbol in gift-giving, a collectible to be locked away in a safe, or an investment made with the belief that the spirit’s value would appreciate.\nIndustry insiders point out that baijiu is a cyclical sector, with roughly five-year swings, but many doubt whether the previous frenzy will ever return.\n“I think only in China would liquor be attached to a financial value. After all, it isn’t really gold, right?” said Xiao at Qiantai Distillery. “Now we’re gradually seeing a return to its fundamental value” – something to drink.\n“In my opinion, that’s exactly how it should be.”\n</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>隨着中國傳統烈酒和高端葡萄酒消費的下降，飲料市場正在發生重大變化。本系列文章分為三部分，探討了茅台鎮面臨的挑戰，曾經備受追捧的白酒失去光彩的原因，經濟封鎖對歐洲葡萄酒進口的影響，以及精釀啤酒作為尋求高品質但不想花費過多的消費者的經濟實惠替代品的崛起。\n 在農曆九月初九，雨季通常結束，赤水河的水清澈見底，位於中國貴州省的茅台鎮的白酒釀酒廠舉行盛大的儀式，開啓年度釀造週期。\n 這是一個吉祥的時刻，中國慶祝重陽節——也稱為雙九節，因為九與相當積極的能量相關。釀酒廠藉助節日的氣氛，將第一批壓碎的紅高粱——他們高濃度烈酒的主要原料——投入發酵池中。\n 但今年，作為中國酒都的茅台鎮的節日氣氛大為減弱。持續的降雨和濃霧籠罩着這個地方，似乎映射出全國白酒行業的長期低迷。\n 在假期的 10 月 29 日，該鎮奢華旗艦產品——由貴州茅台公司生產並以 “茅台飛天” 品牌銷售——的批發價格降至觀察者所稱的近年來的新低。\n 這家國有巨頭的名字源於貴州茅台的較早羅馬化名稱，面臨着越來越大的壓力。根據居民的説法，曾經超過 1000 家小型釀酒廠中的幾百家已經在過去幾年中被迫關閉，現存的僅佔一小部分。\n“我們不知道這是否是長期轉型，還是春天到來之前的暫時冬天，” 當地釀酒廠長虹的老闆羅佳佳説。她的家族經營着一家名為 Longhoom 的釀酒廠。“坦率地説，我們也感到困惑，正在經歷一個不確定的時期。”\n 該行業的掙扎反映了國內消費疲軟，但更深層次的變化也在發生。年輕的中國人拒絕強迫飲酒的規範，而北京最新的緊縮措施部分禁止在官方宴會上飲酒——這對白酒的傳統需求驅動因素造成了雙重打擊。對於釀酒廠來説，重新品牌化和尋找新市場的過程變得至關重要。\n 與其他以白酒生產而聞名的城鎮相比，茅台特別容易受到北京對共產黨紀律的收緊的影響。幾十年來，國有的貴州茅台的繁榮與公共部門的採購密切相關，而這些採購對價格基本上不敏感。該公司的成功催生了無數小型酒類製造商和商人。走在鎮上，發現這裏買白酒比買瓶裝水更容易。\n 茅台鎮在歷史上也具有重要意義，是一個紅色旅遊景點，與長征有着深厚的聯繫——這是 1934 年至 1936 年間共產黨紅軍從國民黨軍隊大規模撤退的過程。將軍耿飈（1909-2000）在他的回憶錄中説：“一些士兵買了 [茅台生產的白酒] 來提神，一些則用它 [塗抹] 在腳上以放鬆肌肉和促進血液循環。”\n 在更近的歷史中，茅台鎮經常舉辦公共官員的團隊建設活動。許多人會訪問小商店，購買相對實惠的大宗白酒，通常作為紀念品或禮物。但幾位店主表示，這種訪問已經減少，當它們發生時，遊客更猶豫於脱離導遊的行程去購買酒。\n 如今，貴州茅台和鎮上剩餘的小型釀酒廠面臨着自己版本的長征——努力擺脱對官方、公共部門和他們長期依賴的飲酒文化的依賴。\n“總之，酒在中國的表達方式確實需要重建，” 中國酒類協會秘書長何勇在上個月的茅台鎮赤水河論壇上表示。“我們常説，世界各地的飲酒有兩個目的：取悦他人或取悦自己。中國以其主要以社交為驅動的飲酒文化而獨樹一幟。\n“然而，我們正在目睹一種從取悦他人轉向取悦自己的轉變，尤其是在年輕一代中。”\n“過去，我們主要關注企業對企業的交易。但現在，我們也需要一個面向終端用户的渠道。”\n 羅佳佳，長虹釀酒廠\n 與此同時，貴州茅台已開始與奢華和腐敗的形象保持距離，同時推出針對年輕消費者的產品——從白酒口味的冰淇淋到與中國最大的咖啡連鎖店瑞幸咖啡合作的酒精咖啡拿鐵。\n 隨着中國迅速老齡化，這一轉變變得更加緊迫。核心白酒消費者羣體——通常是 30 至 55 歲的人羣——在過去五年中減少了約 2800 萬，中央財經大學首席經濟學家李迅雷在同一活動中表示。\n 本月，為了扭轉白酒行業的疲軟狀態，貴州發佈了一項為期三年的計劃，將該行業的框架從單純的 “賣酒” 轉變為推廣更廣泛的以白酒為中心的 “生活方式”。該戰略包括將白酒與旅遊、體育、文化活動和健康服務相結合，開發低酒精、果味白酒和中式雞尾酒。\n 但與行業巨頭相比，缺乏廣泛認可品牌的小型生產商在推出新產品時面臨更大的挑戰。\n“我們只能專注於擴大銷售渠道，” 長虹的羅佳佳説。\n 三年前，羅的家族從不需要擔心分銷：商人和公司直接購買成品，釀酒廠通常需要排隊等待包裝材料。今年，在重陽節前一天，羅在鎮廣場附近的一個政府組織的白酒博覽會上設立了一個小攤位，試圖吸引路過的遊客。\n“過去，我們主要關注企業對企業的交易，” 她説。“但現在，我們也需要一個面向終端用户的渠道。”\n\n 其他當地白酒製造商正在嘗試在社交媒體上改變人們的看法。在赤水河旁的千泰釀酒廠，經理肖帥在抖音上發佈視頻，展示釀酒廠的日常操作——從蒸煮到發酵——同時也對中國的飲酒文化進行自己的評論。\n“我不認為年輕人迴避白酒僅僅是因為他們拒絕烈酒，” 肖説。“許多人仍然喜歡去酒吧喝朗姆酒、雞尾酒、威士忌或軒尼詩，但實際上那些也是烈酒。\n“只是他們更喜歡不在權威或高壓的情況下被迫過量飲酒。”\n 與其他面臨國內需求疲軟的行業一樣，白酒生產商也在關注海外市場。與其他烈酒類別不同，中國白酒在很大程度上依賴於國內市場。但行業內部人士表示，隨着 Z 世代對輕飲酒的全球趨勢，挑戰依然存在。\n 貴州茅台在海外市場的探索中處於領先地位，甚至在 6 月的巴黎 Viva Technology 大會上亮相。目前，該公司在中國企業集中海外擴張的地區加大了市場努力，公司董事王莉本月告訴投資者。\n 消費場景的喪失、習慣的轉變和不兼容的商業模式意味着該行業正處於關鍵的轉型點，王説。\n“儘管面臨眾多困難和挑戰，但這也為行業重新啓動、重塑和重新調整自身以更好地適應市場、滿足需求和促進發展提供了寶貴的機會，” 王補充道。\n\n 在地方政府、商會和行業協會的指導下，小品牌也通過參加海外葡萄酒博覽會和貿易展覽加入了這一運動。\n 許多白酒生產商首先將香港和東南亞作為擴展的重點。在 11 月初，十多家貴州釀酒廠參加了香港國際葡萄酒與烈酒博覽會。\n“在東南亞國家，人們對中國文化相對熟悉，因此向這些市場出口應該是可行的，” 羅説。“關鍵問題是當地經濟是否能夠承受。”\n 對於茅台鎮的許多人來説，四年前市場繁榮的記憶仍然鮮明。貴州茅台的批發價格是現在的兩倍多。不僅僅是酒，這種烈酒被視為 “液體黃金”——在送禮時的地位象徵，鎖在保險箱裏的收藏品，或是以其價值會升值的投資。\n 行業內部人士指出，白酒是一個週期性行業，約五年一個週期，但許多人懷疑之前的狂熱是否會再度迴歸。\n“我認為只有在中國，酒才會被附加上金融價值。畢竟，它並不是真正的黃金，對吧？” 千泰釀酒廠的肖説。“現在我們逐漸看到它迴歸到其基本價值”——飲用的東西。\n“在我看來，這正是它應該有的樣子。”</p>
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隨着白酒的 “液體黃金” 光輝逐漸消退，中國的白酒之都正面臨漫長的重生之路