<p>也許沒有什麼比格雷格斯（Greggs）推出無肉香腸卷更能代表英國的素食熱潮。</p>
<p>這款素食替代品於 2019 年 1 月由這家麪包連鎖店推出，受到了極大的歡迎，以至於在網絡的某些角落被視為英國年度文化時刻。</p>
<p>然而，七年後，素食革命似乎正在失去動力，一些人在社交媒體上開玩笑説，生活變得太壓抑，以至於無法戒掉肉類。</p>
<p>最近由歐洲良好食品研究所發佈的報告顯示，素食主義衰退的跡象顯現，報告指出截至 2025 年 1 月，英國植物性食品的銷售額下降了 4.5%，降至 8.98 億英鎊。</p>
<p>來自 NIQ 的獨立數據顯示，自 2022 年以來，至少每年購買植物性肉類替代品的家庭比例有所下降，該組織強調了 “靈活素食者重新迴歸動物蛋白” 的趨勢。</p>
<p>對於許多行業專家來説，英國素食熱潮的崩潰早已是意料之中。</p>
<p>“十年前我就告訴投資公司，素食主義只是小眾中的小眾，” 零售專家和前買手 Ged Futter 説。</p>
<p>“這對我來説一點也不意外。素食主義屬於素食主義，而現在幾乎沒有人再談論素食主義了。”</p>
<p>目前的狀況與五年前大相徑庭，那時購物者幾乎無法避免素食廣告活動。</p>
<p>特易購（Tesco）、馬克斯與斯賓塞（Marks &amp; Spencer）、阿斯達（Asda）和阿爾迪（Aldi）都推出了植物性產品系列，而肯德基（KFC）、克里斯皮克里姆（Krispy Kreme）和麥格農（Magnum）也試圖借素食熱潮獲利。</p>
<p>但許多人開始意識到，消費者的胃口根本不在這裏。去年，Wagamama 從菜單中剔除了多款素食熱門菜品，包括 “Vegatsu” 咖喱和 “vegan K-Dogs”。該連鎖店的母公司餐飲集團（The Restaurant Group）首席執行官安迪·霍恩比（Andy Hornby）表示，顧客的興趣不足以繼續保留這些菜品。</p>
<p>該連鎖店最近菜單新增的營銷宣傳明顯減少了對其素食資質的強調。</p>
<p>“人們意識到，完全素食產品的銷量非常低，” Futter 説。</p>
<p>“對於製造商來説，當銷量如此之小且看不到長期前景時，就會有一個時刻讓你決定去做其他事情。”</p>
<p>去年也是那些試圖主導素食市場的企業的一個清算時刻。</p>
<p>四月，受到萊昂納多·迪卡普里奧（Leonardo DiCaprio）和劉易斯·漢密爾頓（Lewis Hamilton）支持的素食漢堡連鎖店 Neat Burger 在遭受重大損失後關閉了所有英國餐廳。</p>
<p>然而，英國並不是唯一一個面臨這種情況的地方——素食特色菜品也在歐洲各地的菜單上消失。</p>
<p>麥當勞的植物漢堡在七月悄然從奧地利的分店撤回，而多米諾比薩（Domino’s）在十一月重新推出時縮減了其素食產品。</p>
<p>Grace Withers，農業與園藝發展委員會（AHDB）的成員表示，只有在素食菜品暢銷的情況下，無肉菜單才能為餐廳節省成本，但消費者的胃口被高估了。</p>
<p>“即使在素食主義最受歡迎的時候，我們看到的聲稱自己是素食主義者的人遠遠超過了真正堅持下來的，” Withers 説。</p>
<p>“人們常常在餓的時候放棄，想吃點美味的東西。我們在素食一月（Veganuary）期間也看到了這一點。”</p>
<p>根據支持農民和種植者的公共機構 AHDB 的數據，只有 1% 的素食一月參與者堅持到月底。</p>
<p>成本也是一個因素，因為植物性替代品如 Quorn 和豆腐的價格在近年來上漲幅度超過了便宜肉類的價格。</p>
<p>“由於生活成本危機，消費者非常關注價格，” Withers 説。“無肉產品的價格高於豬肉和雞肉，因此它們在價格上沒有競爭力。”</p>
<p>加劇素食困境的是一些健康意識強的消費者轉向了其他潮流。</p>
<p>“隨着力量訓練趨勢的持續流行，蛋白質攝入變得更加重要，” 健身集團（Gym Group）的教練 Jenni Tardiff 説。</p>
<p>來自零售分析師 Kantar 的數據表明，46% 的購物者試圖在飲食中包含高蛋白食品，較 2022 年的 38% 有所上升。</p>
<p>文化的逆風同樣發生了變化，尤其是在唐納德·特朗普重新進入白宮之後。</p>
<p>他衞生部門本月早些時候發佈的食物金字塔將乳製品和健康脂肪置於頂部。</p>
<p>“我們看到文化開始迴歸，慶祝真實、簡單的食物：紅肉、黃油和全脂牛奶，” Kantar 的 Bia Bezamat 説。“從動物來源獲取蛋白質更容易。在一個日益複雜的世界中，簡單性與人們產生共鳴。”</p>
<p>減肥藥的興起也是一個因素，Bezamat 説：“當你在服用藥物時，你需要確保攝入所需的營養，而像素食主義這樣限制性很大的飲食並不支持這一點。”</p>
<p>此外，針對所謂 “超加工食品” 的反彈也削弱了無肉替代品的受歡迎程度。</p>
<p>“當你查看一些素食產品包裝的背面時，成分列表非常龐大，” Futter 説。</p>
<p>“大部分素食產品是由人們並不真正認識或理解的東西製成的。品牌和超市已經意識到這並不是顧客所尋找的。”</p>
<p>儘管偶爾有像燕麥奶這樣的素食產品脱穎而出，但全面的素食革命的希望已經破滅。</p>
<p>“我認為對素食主義受歡迎程度的估計過高，” Bezamat 説，她將其與無麩質飲食的興起和衰落進行了比較。</p>
<p>“那是最初的限制性飲食，最初幾乎沒有產品供應，然後突然出現了大量產品，” 她説。“現在它只是靜靜地放在貨架上。”</p>

<p>英國的素食熱潮正在下降，2025 年植物性食品銷售額下降了 4.5%，降至 8.98 億英鎊。報告顯示，靈活素食者的購物習慣正在迴歸動物性蛋白。行業專家指出，素食主義一直是一個小眾市場，許多企業，包括 Neat Burger，因消費者興趣低迷而關閉。導致這一下降的因素包括植物性產品成本上升、飲食趨勢的變化傾向於高蛋白飲食，以及向傳統食品的文化轉變。整體對素食選擇的需求似乎顯著減弱</p>

<p>Perhaps nothing represented Britain’s vegan craze more than the launch of Greggs’ meat-free sausage roll.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>也許沒有什麼比格雷格斯（Greggs）推出無肉香腸卷更能代表英國的素食熱潮。</p>
</div><p>Released by the bakery chain in January 2019, the vegan alternative was so popular that it was regarded in some corners of the internet as the UK’s cultural moment of the year.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>這款素食替代品於 2019 年 1 月由這家麪包連鎖店推出，受到了極大的歡迎，以至於在網絡的某些角落被視為英國年度文化時刻。</p>
</div><p>However, seven years later, it appears the vegan revolution is running out of steam, with some joking on social media that life has just become too depressing to swear off meat.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>然而，七年後，素食革命似乎正在失去動力，一些人在社交媒體上開玩笑説，生活變得太壓抑，以至於無法戒掉肉類。</p>
</div><p>Signs of veganism’s decline appeared in a recent report by the Good Food Institute Europe, which found that sales of plant-based food in Britain fell by 4.5pc to £898m in the year to January 2025.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>最近由歐洲良好食品研究所發佈的報告顯示，素食主義衰退的跡象顯現，報告指出截至 2025 年 1 月，英國植物性食品的銷售額下降了 4.5%，降至 8.98 億英鎊。</p>
</div><p>Separate data from NIQ show that the share of households buying plant-based meat alternatives at least once a year has waned since 2022, with the organisation highlighting a shift in “flexitarian shoppers back into animal-based proteins”.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>來自 NIQ 的獨立數據顯示，自 2022 年以來，至少每年購買植物性肉類替代品的家庭比例有所下降，該組織強調了 “靈活素食者重新迴歸動物蛋白” 的趨勢。</p>
</div><p>For many industry experts, the collapse in Britain’s vegan boom has been a long time coming.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>對於許多行業專家來説，英國素食熱潮的崩潰早已是意料之中。</p>
</div><p>“I told investment companies 10 years ago that veganism is a niche of a niche,” says Ged Futter, a retail expert and former buyer.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“十年前我就告訴投資公司，素食主義只是小眾中的小眾，” 零售專家和前買手 Ged Futter 説。</p>
</div><p>“It was no surprise to me at all. Veganism sits within vegetarianism and no one really talks about vegetarianism any more.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“這對我來説一點也不意外。素食主義屬於素食主義，而現在幾乎沒有人再談論素食主義了。”</p>
</div><p>The current state of affairs is a far cry from five years ago, when shoppers could hardly move for vegan ad campaigns.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>目前的狀況與五年前大相徑庭，那時購物者幾乎無法避免素食廣告活動。</p>
</div><p>Tesco, Marks &amp; Spencer, Asda and Aldi all unveiled plant-based ranges while KFC, Krispy Kreme and Magnum made similar attempts to cash in on the vegan hype.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>特易購（Tesco）、馬克斯與斯賓塞（Marks &amp; Spencer）、阿斯達（Asda）和阿爾迪（Aldi）都推出了植物性產品系列，而肯德基（KFC）、克里斯皮克里姆（Krispy Kreme）和麥格農（Magnum）也試圖借素食熱潮獲利。</p>
</div><p>But many are starting to realise the appetite from consumers simply isn’t there. Last year, Wagamama axed a string of vegan favourites from menus, including its “Vegatsu” curry and its “vegan K-Dogs”. Andy Hornby, the chief executive of the chain’s owner, The Restaurant Group, argued that interest from diners wasn’t high enough to justify continuing the dishes’ inclusion.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>但許多人開始意識到，消費者的胃口根本不在這裏。去年，Wagamama 從菜單中剔除了多款素食熱門菜品，包括 “Vegatsu” 咖喱和 “vegan K-Dogs”。該連鎖店的母公司餐飲集團（The Restaurant Group）首席執行官安迪·霍恩比（Andy Hornby）表示，顧客的興趣不足以繼續保留這些菜品。</p>
</div><p>Marketing for the chain’s most recent menu additions makes noticeably less of a fuss about its vegan credentials.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>該連鎖店最近菜單新增的營銷宣傳明顯減少了對其素食資質的強調。</p>
</div><p>“People are realising that the volumes going through fully vegan products are very low,” says Futter.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“人們意識到，完全素食產品的銷量非常低，” Futter 説。</p>
</div><p>“For manufacturers, when volumes are that small and you can’t see a long-term future, there comes a point where you decide to do something else.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“對於製造商來説，當銷量如此之小且看不到長期前景時，就會有一個時刻讓你決定去做其他事情。”</p>
</div><p>Last year was also a reckoning for businesses that sought to dominate the vegan market.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>去年也是那些試圖主導素食市場的企業的一個清算時刻。</p>
</div><p>In April, Neat Burger, the vegan burger chain backed by Leonardo DiCaprio and Lewis Hamilton, shut all of its UK restaurants after suffering substantial losses.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>四月，受到萊昂納多·迪卡普里奧（Leonardo DiCaprio）和劉易斯·漢密爾頓（Lewis Hamilton）支持的素食漢堡連鎖店 Neat Burger 在遭受重大損失後關閉了所有英國餐廳。</p>
</div><p>Yet Britain is not alone – vegan specialities have also vanished from menus across Europe.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>然而，英國並不是唯一一個面臨這種情況的地方——素食特色菜品也在歐洲各地的菜單上消失。</p>
</div><p>The McDonald’s plant burger was quietly pulled from Austrian Branches in July while Domino’s shrank its vegan offering as part of a November relaunch.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>麥當勞的植物漢堡在七月悄然從奧地利的分店撤回，而多米諾比薩（Domino’s）在十一月重新推出時縮減了其素食產品。</p>
</div><p>Meat-free menus are only a cost-saver for restaurants if vegan dishes sell, says Grace Withers, of the Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board (AHDB) – but consumer appetite has been overestimated.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Grace Withers，農業與園藝發展委員會（AHDB）的成員表示，只有在素食菜品暢銷的情況下，無肉菜單才能為餐廳節省成本，但消費者的胃口被高估了。</p>
</div><p>“Even when veganism was at its most popular, we saw far more people claiming to be vegan than actually managing to stick to it,” says Withers.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“即使在素食主義最受歡迎的時候，我們看到的聲稱自己是素食主義者的人遠遠超過了真正堅持下來的，” Withers 説。</p>
</div><p>“People often lapsed when they were hungry and wanted something tasty. We saw this during Veganuary as well.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“人們常常在餓的時候放棄，想吃點美味的東西。我們在素食一月（Veganuary）期間也看到了這一點。”</p>
</div><p>Only 1pc of those who signed up for Veganuary made it to the end of the month having stuck to the diet, according to the AHDB, a public body which supports farmers and growers.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>根據支持農民和種植者的公共機構 AHDB 的數據，只有 1% 的素食一月參與者堅持到月底。</p>
</div><p>Cost has also been a factor, as plant-based substitutes such as Quorn and tofu have increased in price more than cheaper meats in recent years.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>成本也是一個因素，因為植物性替代品如 Quorn 和豆腐的價格在近年來上漲幅度超過了便宜肉類的價格。</p>
</div><p>“Consumers are very price-driven because of the cost-of-living crisis,” says Withers. “Meat-free products are more expensive than pig meat and chicken, so they are not competing on price.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“由於生活成本危機，消費者非常關注價格，” Withers 説。“無肉產品的價格高於豬肉和雞肉，因此它們在價格上沒有競爭力。”</p>
</div><p>Compounding vegan woes is the fact that some health-conscious consumers have moved on to other fads.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>加劇素食困境的是一些健康意識強的消費者轉向了其他潮流。</p>
</div><p>“As the trend for strength training continues to grow in popularity, protein intake has become more of a priority,” says Jenni Tardiff, a trainer at the Gym Group.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“隨着力量訓練趨勢的持續流行，蛋白質攝入變得更加重要，” 健身集團（Gym Group）的教練 Jenni Tardiff 説。</p>
</div><p>Data from retail analyst Kantar show that 46pc of shoppers try to include high-protein in their diets, up from 38pc in 2022.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>來自零售分析師 Kantar 的數據表明，46% 的購物者試圖在飲食中包含高蛋白食品，較 2022 年的 38% 有所上升。</p>
</div><p>Cultural headwinds have similarly shifted, particularly since Donald Trump re-entered the White House.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>文化的逆風同樣發生了變化，尤其是在唐納德·特朗普重新進入白宮之後。</p>
</div><p>The food pyramid unveiled by his health department earlier this month put dairy and healthy fats at the top.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>他衞生部門本月早些時候發佈的食物金字塔將乳製品和健康脂肪置於頂部。</p>
</div><p>“We are seeing culture swing back towards celebrating real, simple food: red meat, butter and full-fat milk,” says Bia Bezamat, of Kantar. “Protein is easier to get from animal sources. Simplicity is resonating with people in a world that feels increasingly multi-layered and complex.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“我們看到文化開始迴歸，慶祝真實、簡單的食物：紅肉、黃油和全脂牛奶，” Kantar 的 Bia Bezamat 説。“從動物來源獲取蛋白質更容易。在一個日益複雜的世界中，簡單性與人們產生共鳴。”</p>
</div><p>The rise of weight-loss drugs has also been a factor, Bezamat says: “When you are on medication, you need to make sure you eat the nutrients you need and a diet as restrictive as veganism does not really support that.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>減肥藥的興起也是一個因素，Bezamat 説：“當你在服用藥物時，你需要確保攝入所需的營養，而像素食主義這樣限制性很大的飲食並不支持這一點。”</p>
</div><p>Elsewhere, a growing pushback against so-called “ultra-processed foods” has dented the popularity of meat-free substitutes.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>此外，針對所謂 “超加工食品” 的反彈也削弱了無肉替代品的受歡迎程度。</p>
</div><p>“When you look at the back of the pack on some vegan products, the list of ingredients is enormous,” says Futter.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“當你查看一些素食產品包裝的背面時，成分列表非常龐大，” Futter 説。</p>
</div><p>“A large proportion of vegan products are made from things people don’t really recognise or understand. Brands and supermarkets have recognised that this is not what customers are looking for.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“大部分素食產品是由人們並不真正認識或理解的東西製成的。品牌和超市已經意識到這並不是顧客所尋找的。”</p>
</div><p>Despite the cut-through of the odd vegan product like oat milk, the hope of a wholesale vegan revolution has unravelled.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>儘管偶爾有像燕麥奶這樣的素食產品脱穎而出，但全面的素食革命的希望已經破滅。</p>
</div><p>“I think there was an overestimation of how popular veganism would be,” says Bezamat, who compares it to the rise and fall of gluten-free diets.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“我認為對素食主義受歡迎程度的估計過高，” Bezamat 説，她將其與無麩質飲食的興起和衰落進行了比較。</p>
</div><p>“That was the original restrictive diet, where there was initially very little offer and then suddenly lots of products,” she says. “Now it just sits there on the shelf.”</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“那是最初的限制性飲食，最初幾乎沒有產品供應，然後突然出現了大量產品，” 她説。“現在它只是靜靜地放在貨架上。”</p>
</div>

素食熱潮的衰退