<p>劣质成分、毁坏的食谱和棕榈油的泛滥——“劣质化” 已经侵蚀了现代生活的各个方面，我们的超市货架也不例外。</p>
<p>这个术语（最初用来形容在线服务的恶化）引起了公众的共鸣，公众对多年来价格上涨和质量下降感到厌倦。它主要描述像谷歌（已经不再是曾经有用的影子）和皇家邮政（现在试图像一个懒惰的送报员一样逃避周六的投递）这样的服务，但同样适用于产品——例如迅速恶化的微软 Windows、一次性家用电器，以及，没错，食品。</p>
<p>我只需输入 “Dairy Milk” 或 “Creme Egg” 这几个词，你就知道我在说什么。卡德伯里可能是劣质化最臭名昭著的受害者，自 2010 年被美国巨头卡夫（现为蒙德利兹国际）收购以来，其产品质量稳步下降。但翻过你最喜欢的任何包装（由于 “缩水通胀”，包装可能本来就更小），你会注意到标签上的类似模式——对既定食谱的削减成本调整、用更便宜的成分替代优质成分，以及，通常，将生产外包给外国工厂。</p>
<p>棕榈油——制造商可以使用的最便宜的食用脂肪——无处不在。可可含量在下降，植物涂抹油中的橄榄油比例也在下降。香蒜酱制造商用腰果代替更昂贵的松子，其他硬奶酪代替帕尔马奶酪。利比纳的黑加仑含量减少了，蓝色条形巧克力技术上不再是巧克力棒，而 Yeo Valley 的可涂抹黄油中实际的黄油含量也减少了一点。总体而言，鳄梨酱的鳄梨含量减少，香肠中的猪肉含量减少，几乎所有超市的即食餐肉类含量都在缓慢但明显地减少，取而代之的是更便宜的填充物。</p>
<p>这被形容为一场向底部的竞赛。监管因素如糖税在某些情况下助长了这一现象，环境压力、成分短缺和运营考虑也是如此，但——与所有其他类型的劣质化一样——这主要是关于金钱。销售更便宜的产品以更高的零售价格意味着比保持食谱不变获得更好的回报。</p>
<p>因此，向这些尚未受到影响的最爱致敬。请在评论区告诉我们你最喜欢的英国食品。</p>
<h2>Bird’s Custard Powder</h2>
<p>由阿尔弗雷德·伯德在伯明翰开发，因为他的妻子对鸡蛋过敏，Bird’s custard powder 在近两个世纪后仍然保持着简单的素食成分列表，包括玉米淀粉、盐、天然香料和来自植物的食用色素安纳托。它与 1830 年代的原型并不完全相同，但也差不多，而且与几乎所有其他布丁通道的产品不同，它不含棕榈油或乳木果油、甜味剂或字母汤乳化剂。</p>
<p>拥有者 Tate &amp; Lyle 可能在 2024 年对 140 年历史的死狮子标志进行了令人遗忘的千禧风格——抱歉，“新鲜和现代” 的重新设计，但内部产品（一种琥珀色的反转糖浆）基本上没有变化。原版（坦率地说有点奇怪）的圣经参考仍然可以在金属罐上找到，而挤压塑料瓶则有风格化的、更愉快的（敢我说是劣质化的）版本。</p>
<h2>Lea &amp; Perrins</h2>
<p>尽管无法正确发音 “Worcestershire”，美国人在十年前成功收购了 Lea &amp; Perrins，并为他们的国内市场生产了一种变种的、甜味的版本。然而，英国人仍然可以获得相对真实的历史食谱反映，包括相对昂贵的麦芽醋，而在劣质化的调味品中，麦芽醋常常被更便宜的酒精醋所替代。</p>
<p>水、葡萄糖、糖和薄荷油仍然是大多数流行版本的唯一成分。虽然其他高能量棒的加工和改动几乎到了极致，但来自像 Romney’s、Wilson’s 和 Quiggins 这样的多代制造商的 Kendal Mint Cake 几乎与以往一样。</p>
<h2>Gentleman’s Relish</h2>
<p>在全国的冰箱门中，依然存在这种由凤尾鱼、黄油和香料混合而成的调味品，每天早晨为英国的黄油吐司提供复杂而强烈的鲜味。现在由波兰制造，通常以塑料罐而非陶瓷碗的形式出现，但仍遵循 1820 年代的原始食谱。</p>
<h2>Walker’s Shortbread</h2>
<p>在一罐短饼的成分列表中，你应该只找到 3:2:1 比例的面粉、糖和黄油，以及一小撮盐，而 Walker’s 是一个在过去一个世纪中默默满足这一期望的品牌。较小的制造商有时会在食谱中加入其他脂肪，有时是以素食主义的名义。</p>
<p>作为玛格丽特·撒切尔和埃马纽埃尔·马克龙的最爱，Fisherman’s Friend 喉糖——由已故的多琳·洛夫斯开发并推广，仍由同名家族公司在兰开夏郡生产，包含几乎相同的桉树油、甘草、糖和一种古老的增稠剂——龙舌兰胶。Fisherman’s Friend 的生产中超过 90% 是出口，每年在国外消费超过 40 亿颗喉糖。</p>
<h2>Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls</h2>
<p>Uncle Joe’s 三种成分的薄荷球仍在维根按照 1898 年的原始食谱生产，成分包括塔塔粉、薄荷和甘蔗糖。喜欢传统糖果的人可以探索 William Santus &amp; Co 的其他产品，其中包括一些令人愉悦的未被改动的糖果。</p>

COCO

<p>这篇文章讨论了由于削减成本措施，许多英国食品产品质量下降的现象，称之为 “ensh-ttification”。文章强调了像卡德伯里巧克力和各种调味品等受欢迎的产品因成分质量降低和使用更便宜的替代品而受到影响。然而，文章也赞扬了一些保持不变的英国食品，如 Bird’s Custard Powder、Lea & Perrins、Kendal Mint Cake、Gentleman’s Relish 和 Walker’s Shortbread，这些产品继续使用传统配方和高质量成分</p>

<p>Inferior ingredients, ruined recipes and a proliferation of palm oil – “ensh-ttification” has infested all parts of modern life and our supermarket shelves are no exception.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>劣质成分、毁坏的食谱和棕榈油的泛滥——“劣质化” 已经侵蚀了现代生活的各个方面，我们的超市货架也不例外。</p>
</div><p>The term (first coined to describe the worsening of online services) has struck a chord with an exasperated public, weary from many years of rising prices and falling quality. It primarily describes services like Google (a shadow of its former useful self) and Royal Mail (now trying to shirk its Saturday rounds like an idle paper boy), but it applies just as much to products – such as the rapidly worsening Microsoft Windows, throwaway domestic appliances and, yes, food.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这个术语（最初用来形容在线服务的恶化）引起了公众的共鸣，公众对多年来价格上涨和质量下降感到厌倦。它主要描述像谷歌（已经不再是曾经有用的影子）和皇家邮政（现在试图像一个懒惰的送报员一样逃避周六的投递）这样的服务，但同样适用于产品——例如迅速恶化的微软 Windows、一次性家用电器，以及，没错，食品。</p>
</div><p>I only need to type the words “Dairy Milk” or “Creme Egg” for you to know what I mean. Cadbury is probably ensh-ttification’s most notorious victim, its products having steadily worsened since being bought out by US giant Kraft (now Mondelēz International) in 2010. But flip over any of your favourite packets (likely smaller anyway thanks to “shrinkflation”) and you’ll notice similar patterns on the label – cost-cutting tweaks to established recipes, substitution of quality ingredients for cheaper ones and, often, outsourcing of production to foreign factories.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>我只需输入 “Dairy Milk” 或 “Creme Egg” 这几个词，你就知道我在说什么。卡德伯里可能是劣质化最臭名昭著的受害者，自 2010 年被美国巨头卡夫（现为蒙德利兹国际）收购以来，其产品质量稳步下降。但翻过你最喜欢的任何包装（由于 “缩水通胀”，包装可能本来就更小），你会注意到标签上的类似模式——对既定食谱的削减成本调整、用更便宜的成分替代优质成分，以及，通常，将生产外包给外国工厂。</p>
</div><p>Palm oil – the cheapest edible fat manufacturers can use – is everywhere. Cocoa content is falling, as is the percentage of olive oil in vegetable spreads. Pesto manufacturers are using cashews instead of more expensive pine nuts, and other hard cheeses in place of Parmesan. Ribena has a little less blackcurrant in it, Blue Riband is technically no longer a chocolate bar and Yeo Valley’s spreadable butter has just a little bit less actual butter in it. Across the board, guacamole delivers less avocado, sausages contain less pork and ready meals from almost all supermarkets are having their meat content slowly but noticeably reduced, to be replaced with cheaper filler.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>棕榈油——制造商可以使用的最便宜的食用脂肪——无处不在。可可含量在下降，植物涂抹油中的橄榄油比例也在下降。香蒜酱制造商用腰果代替更昂贵的松子，其他硬奶酪代替帕尔马奶酪。利比纳的黑加仑含量减少了，蓝色条形巧克力技术上不再是巧克力棒，而 Yeo Valley 的可涂抹黄油中实际的黄油含量也减少了一点。总体而言，鳄梨酱的鳄梨含量减少，香肠中的猪肉含量减少，几乎所有超市的即食餐肉类含量都在缓慢但明显地减少，取而代之的是更便宜的填充物。</p>
</div><p>It’s been described as a race to the bottom. Regulatory factors such as the sugar tax contribute to this phenomenon in some circumstances, as do environmental pressures, ingredient shortages and operational considerations, but – as with all other types of ensh-ttification – this is mostly about money. Selling less of a cheaper product for a higher retail price means much better returns than leaving recipes unchanged.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这被形容为一场向底部的竞赛。监管因素如糖税在某些情况下助长了这一现象，环境压力、成分短缺和运营考虑也是如此，但——与所有其他类型的劣质化一样——这主要是关于金钱。销售更便宜的产品以更高的零售价格意味着比保持食谱不变获得更好的回报。</p>
</div><p>Kudos, then, to these so-far-untouched favourites. Let us know your go-to British foods in the comments section below.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>因此，向这些尚未受到影响的最爱致敬。请在评论区告诉我们你最喜欢的英国食品。</p>
</div><h2>Bird’s Custard Powder</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Bird’s Custard Powder</h2>
</div><p>Developed by Alfred Bird in Birmingham, because his wife was allergic to eggs, Bird’s custard powder retains its straightforward, vegan ingredient list of cornflour, salt, natural flavouring and annatto (the plant-derived food colouring) after almost two full centuries. It isn’t identical to the 1830s prototypes but it isn’t far off, and, unlike almost every other product in the pudding aisle, it doesn’t contain palm or shea oil, sweeteners or alphabet-soup emulsifiers.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>由阿尔弗雷德·伯德在伯明翰开发，因为他的妻子对鸡蛋过敏，Bird’s custard powder 在近两个世纪后仍然保持着简单的素食成分列表，包括玉米淀粉、盐、天然香料和来自植物的食用色素安纳托。它与 1830 年代的原型并不完全相同，但也差不多，而且与几乎所有其他布丁通道的产品不同，它不含棕榈油或乳木果油、甜味剂或字母汤乳化剂。</p>
</div><p>Owner Tate &amp; Lyle might have given the 140-year-old dead lion logo a forgettably millennial-flavoured – sorry, “fresh and contemporary” – redesign in 2024, but the product inside (an amber-coloured form of inverted sugar syrup) remains fundamentally unchanged. Fans of the original (and frankly a bit weird) Biblical reference can still find it on the metal tins, while the squeezy plastic bottles have the stylised, cheerier (dare I say ensh-ttified) version.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>拥有者 Tate &amp; Lyle 可能在 2024 年对 140 年历史的死狮子标志进行了令人遗忘的千禧风格——抱歉，“新鲜和现代” 的重新设计，但内部产品（一种琥珀色的反转糖浆）基本上没有变化。原版（坦率地说有点奇怪）的圣经参考仍然可以在金属罐上找到，而挤压塑料瓶则有风格化的、更愉快的（敢我说是劣质化的）版本。</p>
</div><h2>Lea &amp; Perrins</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Lea &amp; Perrins</h2>
</div><p>Despite not being able to pronounce “Worcestershire”, the Americans managed to acquire Lea &amp; Perrins a decade ago and produce a bastardised, sweetened version for their domestic market. However, Brits still get a plausibly authentic reflection of the historic recipe, including relatively expensive malt vinegar, which often gets swapped out for cheaper spirit vinegar in ensh-ttified condiments.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>尽管无法正确发音 “Worcestershire”，美国人在十年前成功收购了 Lea &amp; Perrins，并为他们的国内市场生产了一种变种的、甜味的版本。然而，英国人仍然可以获得相对真实的历史食谱反映，包括相对昂贵的麦芽醋，而在劣质化的调味品中，麦芽醋常常被更便宜的酒精醋所替代。</p>
</div><p>Water, glucose, sugar and peppermint oil are still the only ingredients in most popular versions of this hiking snack. While other high-energy bars are about as processed and messed-around-with as possible, Kendal Mint Cake from multi-generational manufacturers like Romney’s, Wilson’s and Quiggins’ is pretty much the same as it’s always been.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>水、葡萄糖、糖和薄荷油仍然是大多数流行版本的唯一成分。虽然其他高能量棒的加工和改动几乎到了极致，但来自像 Romney’s、Wilson’s 和 Quiggins 这样的多代制造商的 Kendal Mint Cake 几乎与以往一样。</p>
</div><h2>Gentleman’s Relish</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Gentleman’s Relish</h2>
</div><p>Lurking unchanged in the nation’s fridge door is this mixture of anchovies, butter and spice that delivers a sophisticated but powerful umami honk to buttery toast across Britain every morning. Poland now manufactures it, and it tends to come in plastic pots rather than ceramic dishes, but it still follows the original 1820s recipe.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在全国的冰箱门中，依然存在这种由凤尾鱼、黄油和香料混合而成的调味品，每天早晨为英国的黄油吐司提供复杂而强烈的鲜味。现在由波兰制造，通常以塑料罐而非陶瓷碗的形式出现，但仍遵循 1820 年代的原始食谱。</p>
</div><h2>Walker’s Shortbread</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Walker’s Shortbread</h2>
</div><p>Flour, sugar and butter in a 3:2:1 ratio, with a pinch of salt, is all you should find on the ingredients list of a tin of shortbread, and Walker’s is one of the brands that has been quietly meeting this expectation for over a century. Lesser manufacturers have managed to shoehorn other fats into the recipe, sometimes in the name of veganism.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在一罐短饼的成分列表中，你应该只找到 3:2:1 比例的面粉、糖和黄油，以及一小撮盐，而 Walker’s 是一个在过去一个世纪中默默满足这一期望的品牌。较小的制造商有时会在食谱中加入其他脂肪，有时是以素食主义的名义。</p>
</div><p>A favourite of both Margaret Thatcher and Emmanuel Macron, the Fisherman’s Friend lozenge – developed and popularised by the late Doreen Lofthouse, and still manufactured in the billions by the family firm of the same name in Lancashire – contains pretty much the same eucalyptus, liquorice, sugar and an old-timey thickener called tragacanth. More than 90 per cent of Fisherman’s Friend production is exported, with over four billion individual lozenges consumed abroad each year.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>作为玛格丽特·撒切尔和埃马纽埃尔·马克龙的最爱，Fisherman’s Friend 喉糖——由已故的多琳·洛夫斯开发并推广，仍由同名家族公司在兰开夏郡生产，包含几乎相同的桉树油、甘草、糖和一种古老的增稠剂——龙舌兰胶。Fisherman’s Friend 的生产中超过 90% 是出口，每年在国外消费超过 40 亿颗喉糖。</p>
</div><h2>Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls</h2>
</div><p>Uncle Joe’s three-ingredient Mint Balls are still produced in Wigan to the original recipe involving cream of tartar, peppermint and cane sugar, as they were in 1898. Enjoyers of no-nonsense traditional confectionery can explore the rest of the William Santus &amp; Co range, which includes some pleasingly un-messed-around-with sweets.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Uncle Joe’s 三种成分的薄荷球仍在维根按照 1898 年的原始食谱生产，成分包括塔塔粉、薄荷和甘蔗糖。喜欢传统糖果的人可以探索 William Santus &amp; Co 的其他产品，其中包括一些令人愉悦的未被改动的糖果。</p>
</div>

那些一直以来都保持着优良品质的英国食品