<p>提到玫瑰红酒，大多数酒爱好者会联想到一系列熟悉的风味联想——甜美丰盈，或清新果香。然而，Célébris Rosé 2009 并不符合这两种描述。</p>
<p>这是一款来自该产区最古老酒庄的高端香槟。它是一款建立在强大酒基之上的玫瑰红酒——它在餐桌上占有一席之地。稍后会详细介绍。</p>
<p><strong>温暖而慷慨的年份</strong></p>
<p>尽管在过程中遇到了一些挑战，2009 年的香槟年份依然温暖。葡萄的成熟度和实质感得到了很好的体现。但在这样的年份，酒窖中的操作与葡萄园中的情况同样重要。在戈塞酒庄，这一责任由 <strong>Odilon de Varine</strong> 担任酒窖主管近二十年。</p>
<p><strong>传统与现代商业模式</strong></p>
<p>戈塞酒庄被广泛认为是香槟最古老的酒庄。对于这个品牌来说，2009 年也是一个组织上的关键年份：在收获前不久，酒庄迁到了位于埃佩尔奈的新家。这一搬迁得以实现，是通过收购 <strong>Laurent-Perrier</strong> 的一处设备齐全的物业——该物业最初是通过购买 Château Malakoff 获得的。</p>
<p><strong>Bernard de Nonancourt</strong> 在 2010 年去世之前一直塑造着 Laurent-Perrier，他希望一家家族经营的香槟酒庄能够接管该地产。戈塞在多个层面上符合这一愿景。位于 Aÿ 的现有设施早已达到容量极限，而戈塞自 1993/1994 年起一直由 Renaud-Cointreau/Cointreau 家族管理。</p>
<p><strong>当葡萄价格重要时</strong></p>
<p>从商业角度来看，戈塞对其运营的一个方面非常坦诚：大约 99% 的葡萄是从外部种植者那里购买的，正如酒庄在埃佩尔奈设施的参观中所明确表示的那样。葡萄价格在每公斤 8 到 14 欧元之间，这意味着每次收获都需要进行大量投资。生产一瓶酒需要 1.4 公斤的葡萄——这意味着年产量至少需要 140 万公斤。</p>
<p>戈塞如今几乎没有自有葡萄园，这在一定程度上是由于多年来所有权的变迁，期间葡萄园的持有逐渐减少。这种模式在香槟中普遍存在，当品牌易手时，焦点往往转向土地而非酒庄身份。这并不是缺陷——但这完全改变了任务。质量不再建立在自己的地块上，而是依赖于选择、供应商关系、与种植者家庭的持续联系，以及从购买的水果中构建可识别风格的能力。</p>
<p><em><img src="https://imageproxy.pbkrs.com/https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg?x-oss-process=image/auto-orient,1/interlace,1/resize,w_1440,h_1440/quality,q_95/format,jpg" alt="" original-src="https://imageproxy.pbkrs.com/https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg"/></em></p>
<p><em>干爽和清晰使得 Célébris Rosé 2009 成为餐桌上的自然伴侣。（图片：提供）</em></p>
<p><strong>定义风格的两个声音</strong></p>
<p>在戈塞，这项工作有两个名字。Odilon de Varine 担任酒窖主管和常务董事，<strong>Pierre de Caffarelli</strong> 在过去近一年中担任酿酒学负责人。经过一次以品酒结束的埃佩尔奈设施参观后，两人的发言听起来更像是工艺和明确的角色分工，而非营销文案。</p>
<p>Odilon 的逻辑很简单：在戈塞，讨论很少以百分比目标开始。目标是风味识别——数字是从正确的味道中得出的。</p>
<p>他同样明确玫瑰红酒应该是什么：精致、优雅、易饮。玫瑰红酒的颜色是次要的。这也是所有后调配品尝都在黑色酒杯中进行的原因之一。一个一致的风味轮廓是基础系列玫瑰红酒的基准。</p>
<p>Pierre 强调了一个常常被低估但强烈塑造玫瑰香槟特征的点：戈塞的玫瑰红酒是通过将自家红酒混合而成，而不是通过浸渍或泵压法。他补充道，这句话在某种程度上是本文的关键：玫瑰红酒可以是果味的——但请，不仅仅是果味。</p>
<p><strong>为何仅以玫瑰红酒的形式存在</strong></p>
<p>戈塞将 Célébris 2009 仅作为玫瑰红酒发布。没有白酒，也没有第二种变体。这很少见——正是这使其变得有趣。这反映了一种深思熟虑的决定：在最佳年份，仅创造最能代表戈塞风格的酒。</p>
<p>参数很简单——然而它们非常清楚地解释了为何 Célébris Rosé 2009 在酒杯中的表现如此。70% 的霞多丽，30% 的黑比诺，9% 的来自 Bouzy 和 Cumières 的红酒，以及每升三克的糖分，使其坚定地处于特干香槟的领域。这种结构保持了香槟的干爽，并赋予其清晰的线条——这意味着它不依赖于快速开胃的效果，而是真正适合餐桌。</p>
<p>在口感上，红果的味道让位于精确的轮廓——随着温度的升高，这种轮廓变得更加丰富。冷饮但不冰冷，迅速显现出这款酒是为设定好的餐桌而酿造的：一个香槟不仅仅是为了提神，而是为了搭配菜肴。</p>
<p><strong>时间，而非橡木</strong></p>
<p>品尝中有一个观察值得强调，因为它常常被误解。许多人将成熟的香槟解读为 “橡木”。Pierre 的表述令人难忘：一些人认为的橡木往往只是时间。</p>
<p><strong>食物：海鲜——以及为何咖啡酱扇贝是真正的考验</strong></p>
<p>海鲜被称为自然搭配。但令人印象深刻的搭配是咖啡酱扇贝。这个组合听起来像是对比——而且确实是一个诚实的考验。如果一款玫瑰香槟能够在不变甜或金属味的情况下保持干净，那么它就跨越了一个门槛：它不再是 “瞬间的玫瑰”。它是一款酒。</p>
<p>三种特别适合的搭配：</p>
<p>… 金枪鱼（塔塔基或生鱼片）：盐、蛋白质、干爽。</p>
<p>… 带有烤香气的家禽：鸡肉、蘑菇、少许柑橘。</p>
<p>… 熟肉：风干、优雅调味、不沉重。</p>
<hr/>
<p><strong>享受工具</strong></p>
<p>… 温度：不要从冰冷开始。大约 10 摄氏度是最佳表现的温度；在酒杯中升高几度会更好。</p>
<p>… 酒杯：不要使用香槟杯。使用郁金香杯或小红酒杯——这样它仍然是酒，而不仅仅是气泡。</p>
<p>… 时机：第一杯是引入。几分钟后，它会沉淀，变得更干净、更清晰。</p>
<p>瑞士的通知：<strong>Martel Weine</strong> 将在 2026 年秋季在瑞士销售和展示 Célébris Rosé 2009。</p>
<p><strong>Jauch 的结论</strong></p>
<p>Célébris Rosé 2009 并不是仅仅依靠红色水果来取胜的玫瑰酒。它通过干爽、清晰和与食物的搭配来发挥作用。这是像 Gosset 这样的酒庄必须提供的强有力的例证——几乎所有东西都来自外部：选择、关系和酒窖中的一致性。或者，借用 Odilon 的逻辑：百分比不是目标，而是获得正确风味的结果。</p>
<hr/>
<p><em>«Jauch 的选择»：每两周一次的 finews 专栏，<strong>Peter Jauch</strong> 精确分类香槟和其他优质饮品，并补充实用的服务建议。</em></p>

酒ETF

招商中证白酒指数A

华夏中证细分食品饮料产业主题ETF

招商国证食品饮料ETF

<p>Gosset，最古老的香槟酒庄，推出了 Célébris Rosé 2009，这是一款独特的奢华玫瑰香槟，挑战了典型的风味特征。该酒由 99% 的外部葡萄酿成，体现了对质量和传统的承诺，注重风味而非生产目标。2009 年份以温暖为特征，展示了 70% 的霞多丽和 30% 的黑比诺的混合，旨在酿造出干爽而优雅的口感。Gosset 决定将这款酒仅以玫瑰香槟的形式发布，突显了其对展现独特风格的执着</p>

<p>Mention rosé to most wine lovers and a familiar set of flavor associations tends to surface – sweet and lush, or fresh and berry-forward. The Célébris Rosé 2009 fits neither description.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>提到玫瑰红酒，大多数酒爱好者会联想到一系列熟悉的风味联想——甜美丰盈，或清新果香。然而，Célébris Rosé 2009 并不符合这两种描述。</p>
</div><p>This is a prestige Champagne from the oldest wine house in the appellation. A rosé built on a powerful wine foundation – one that earns its place at the table. More on that shortly.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这是一款来自该产区最古老酒庄的高端香槟。它是一款建立在强大酒基之上的玫瑰红酒——它在餐桌上占有一席之地。稍后会详细介绍。</p>
</div><p><strong>A Warm and Generous Vintage</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>温暖而慷慨的年份</strong></p>
</div><p>The 2009 vintage in Champagne was warm, despite some challenges along the way. Ripeness and substance were well expressed in the grapes. But in years like this, what happens in the cellar matters just as much as what happens in the vineyard. At Gosset, that responsibility has rested with <strong>Odilon de Varine</strong> as cellar master for nearly two decades.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>尽管在过程中遇到了一些挑战，2009 年的香槟年份依然温暖。葡萄的成熟度和实质感得到了很好的体现。但在这样的年份，酒窖中的操作与葡萄园中的情况同样重要。在戈塞酒庄，这一责任由 <strong>Odilon de Varine</strong> 担任酒窖主管近二十年。</p>
</div><p><strong>Tradition and a Very Current Business Model</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>传统与现代商业模式</strong></p>
</div><p>Gosset is widely recognized as Champagne's oldest wine house. For the brand, 2009 was also a pivotal year organizationally: just before harvest, the house relocated to a new home in Épernay. The move was made possible by acquiring a fully equipped property from <strong>Laurent-Perrier</strong> – originally obtained through its purchase of Château Malakoff.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>戈塞酒庄被广泛认为是香槟最古老的酒庄。对于这个品牌来说，2009 年也是一个组织上的关键年份：在收获前不久，酒庄迁到了位于埃佩尔奈的新家。这一搬迁得以实现，是通过收购 <strong>Laurent-Perrier</strong> 的一处设备齐全的物业——该物业最初是通过购买 Château Malakoff 获得的。</p>
</div><p><strong>Bernard de Nonancourt</strong>, who shaped Laurent-Perrier until his death in 2010, had hoped a family-run Champagne house would take over the estate. Gosset fit that vision on multiple levels. The existing facilities in Aÿ had long since reached capacity, and Gosset had been under the management of the Renaud-Cointreau/Cointreau family since 1993/1994.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>Bernard de Nonancourt</strong> 在 2010 年去世之前一直塑造着 Laurent-Perrier，他希望一家家族经营的香槟酒庄能够接管该地产。戈塞在多个层面上符合这一愿景。位于 Aÿ 的现有设施早已达到容量极限，而戈塞自 1993/1994 年起一直由 Renaud-Cointreau/Cointreau 家族管理。</p>
</div><p><strong>When the Price of Grapes Matters</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>当葡萄价格重要时</strong></p>
</div><p>From a business perspective, Gosset is unusually candid about one aspect of its operation: roughly 99 percent of its grapes are purchased from outside growers, as the house makes clear during tours of its Épernay facilities. With grape prices ranging between eight and 14 euros per kilogram, that represents a substantial investment at every harvest. Producing a single bottle requires 1.4 kilograms of grapes – meaning annual production demands at least 1.4 million kilograms.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>从商业角度来看，戈塞对其运营的一个方面非常坦诚：大约 99% 的葡萄是从外部种植者那里购买的，正如酒庄在埃佩尔奈设施的参观中所明确表示的那样。葡萄价格在每公斤 8 到 14 欧元之间，这意味着每次收获都需要进行大量投资。生产一瓶酒需要 1.4 公斤的葡萄——这意味着年产量至少需要 140 万公斤。</p>
</div><p>The fact that Gosset owns almost no vineyards today is partly a consequence of ownership transitions over the years, during which vineyard holdings were gradually lost. This pattern recurs across Champagne when brands change hands and the focus shifts to land rather than house identity. It is not a flaw – but it changes the task entirely. Quality is no longer built on one's own parcels. It depends on selection, supplier relationships, continuity with grower families, and the ability to construct a recognizable style from purchased fruit.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>戈塞如今几乎没有自有葡萄园，这在一定程度上是由于多年来所有权的变迁，期间葡萄园的持有逐渐减少。这种模式在香槟中普遍存在，当品牌易手时，焦点往往转向土地而非酒庄身份。这并不是缺陷——但这完全改变了任务。质量不再建立在自己的地块上，而是依赖于选择、供应商关系、与种植者家庭的持续联系，以及从购买的水果中构建可识别风格的能力。</p>
</div><p><em><img src="https://imageproxy.pbkrs.com/https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg" alt="" original-src="https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg"/></em></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><em><img src="https://imageproxy.pbkrs.com/https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg" alt="" original-src="https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg"/></em></p>
</div><p><em>Dryness and clarity make the Célébris Rosé 2009 a natural companion at the table. (Image: Courtesy)</em></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><em>干爽和清晰使得 Célébris Rosé 2009 成为餐桌上的自然伴侣。（图片：提供）</em></p>
</div><p><strong>Two Voices That Define the Style</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>定义风格的两个声音</strong></p>
</div><p>At Gosset, this work carries two names. Odilon de Varine leads the house as cellar master and managing director. <strong>Pierre de Caffarelli</strong> has worked alongside him for nearly a year as head of oenology. Following a tour of the Épernay facilities that concluded with a tasting, both spoke in ways that sounded less like marketing copy and more like craft and clear division of roles.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在戈塞，这项工作有两个名字。Odilon de Varine 担任酒窖主管和常务董事，<strong>Pierre de Caffarelli</strong> 在过去近一年中担任酿酒学负责人。经过一次以品酒结束的埃佩尔奈设施参观后，两人的发言听起来更像是工艺和明确的角色分工，而非营销文案。</p>
</div><p>Odilon's logic was straightforward: at Gosset, the conversation rarely starts with percentage targets. The goal is flavor recognition – the numbers follow from getting the taste right.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Odilon 的逻辑很简单：在戈塞，讨论很少以百分比目标开始。目标是风味识别——数字是从正确的味道中得出的。</p>
</div><p>He was equally clear about what rosé should be: fine, elegant, easy to drink. The color of the rosé is secondary. That is one reason all post-blending tastings take place using black glasses. A consistent flavor profile is the benchmark for the base range rosés.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>他同样明确玫瑰红酒应该是什么：精致、优雅、易饮。玫瑰红酒的颜色是次要的。这也是所有后调配品尝都在黑色酒杯中进行的原因之一。一个一致的风味轮廓是基础系列玫瑰红酒的基准。</p>
</div><p>Pierre focused on a point that is frequently underestimated but strongly shapes rosé Champagne's character: Gosset produces rosé as a blend incorporating its own red wine, rather than through the maceration or saignée method. And he added the sentence that is, in some ways, the key to this article: rosé may be fruity – but please, not only fruity.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Pierre 强调了一个常常被低估但强烈塑造玫瑰香槟特征的点：戈塞的玫瑰红酒是通过将自家红酒混合而成，而不是通过浸渍或泵压法。他补充道，这句话在某种程度上是本文的关键：玫瑰红酒可以是果味的——但请，不仅仅是果味。</p>
</div><p><strong>Why It Exists Only as a Rosé</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>为何仅以玫瑰红酒的形式存在</strong></p>
</div><p>Gosset releases the Célébris 2009 exclusively as a rosé. No blanc alongside it, no second variant. That is rare – and precisely what makes it interesting. It reflects a deliberate decision: in the best years, to create only what best represents the Gosset style.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>戈塞将 Célébris 2009 仅作为玫瑰红酒发布。没有白酒，也没有第二种变体。这很少见——正是这使其变得有趣。这反映了一种深思熟虑的决定：在最佳年份，仅创造最能代表戈塞风格的酒。</p>
</div><p>The parameters are straightforward – and yet they explain remarkably well why the Célébris Rosé 2009 shows the way it does in the glass. Seventy percent Chardonnay, 30 percent Pinot Noir, nine percent red wine from Bouzy and Cumières, and a dosage of three grams per liter, placing it firmly in extra brut territory. This architecture keeps the Champagne dry and gives it a clean line – meaning it does not rely on the quick apéritif effect, but genuinely makes sense at the table.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>参数很简单——然而它们非常清楚地解释了为何 Célébris Rosé 2009 在酒杯中的表现如此。70% 的霞多丽，30% 的黑比诺，9% 的来自 Bouzy 和 Cumières 的红酒，以及每升三克的糖分，使其坚定地处于特干香槟的领域。这种结构保持了香槟的干爽，并赋予其清晰的线条——这意味着它不依赖于快速开胃的效果，而是真正适合餐桌。</p>
</div><p>On the palate, red fruit takes a back seat to precise contour – one that becomes even more expressive with a few degrees of temperature. Serve it cold but not ice-cold, and it quickly becomes clear that this wine was made for a set table: a place where Champagne is not only meant to refresh, but to carry a dish.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在口感上，红果的味道让位于精确的轮廓——随着温度的升高，这种轮廓变得更加丰富。冷饮但不冰冷，迅速显现出这款酒是为设定好的餐桌而酿造的：一个香槟不仅仅是为了提神，而是为了搭配菜肴。</p>
</div><p><strong>Time, Not Oak</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>时间，而非橡木</strong></p>
</div><p>One observation from the tasting is worth highlighting, because it is so often misread. Many people interpret mature Champagne as «oak.» Pierre's formulation was memorable: what some take for oak is often simply time.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>品尝中有一个观察值得强调，因为它常常被误解。许多人将成熟的香槟解读为 “橡木”。Pierre 的表述令人难忘：一些人认为的橡木往往只是时间。</p>
</div><p><strong>Food: Seafood – and Why Scallops with Coffee Sauce Are a Real Test</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>食物：海鲜——以及为何咖啡酱扇贝是真正的考验</strong></p>
</div><p>Seafood was named as the natural partner. But the pairing that lingers is scallops with coffee sauce. The combination sounds like contrast – and it is an honest test. If a rosé Champagne can carry that without turning sweet or metallic, while staying clean throughout, it has crossed a threshold: it is no longer «rosé for the moment.» It is wine.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>海鲜被称为自然搭配。但令人印象深刻的搭配是咖啡酱扇贝。这个组合听起来像是对比——而且确实是一个诚实的考验。如果一款玫瑰香槟能够在不变甜或金属味的情况下保持干净，那么它就跨越了一个门槛：它不再是 “瞬间的玫瑰”。它是一款酒。</p>
</div><p>Three pairings that work particularly well:</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>三种特别适合的搭配：</p>
</div><p>… Tuna (tataki or tartare): salt, protein, dryness.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 金枪鱼（塔塔基或生鱼片）：盐、蛋白质、干爽。</p>
</div><p>… Poultry with roasted notes: poularde, mushroom, a hint of citrus.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 带有烤香气的家禽：鸡肉、蘑菇、少许柑橘。</p>
</div><p>… Charcuterie: air-dried, elegantly spiced, not heavy.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 熟肉：风干、优雅调味、不沉重。</p>
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</div><p><strong>Enjoyment Tool</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>享受工具</strong></p>
</div><p>… Temperature: Do not start ice-cold. Around 10 degrees Celsius is where it shows best; a few degrees gained in the glass do it good.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 温度：不要从冰冷开始。大约 10 摄氏度是最佳表现的温度；在酒杯中升高几度会更好。</p>
</div><p>… Glass: No flute. A tulip glass or a small red wine glass – so it remains wine, not just bubbles.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 酒杯：不要使用香槟杯。使用郁金香杯或小红酒杯——这样它仍然是酒，而不仅仅是气泡。</p>
</div><p>… Timing: The first glass is the introduction. After a few minutes, it settles and becomes cleaner and clearer.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 时机：第一杯是引入。几分钟后，它会沉淀，变得更干净、更清晰。</p>
</div><p>A note for Switzerland: <strong>Martel Weine</strong> will carry and present the Célébris Rosé 2009 in Switzerland in the fall of 2026.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>瑞士的通知：<strong>Martel Weine</strong> 将在 2026 年秋季在瑞士销售和展示 Célébris Rosé 2009。</p>
</div><p><strong>Jauch's Conclusion</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>Jauch 的结论</strong></p>
</div><p>The Célébris Rosé 2009 is not a rosé that tries to win on red fruit alone. It works through dryness, clarity, and food. And it is a strong example of what a house like Gosset – sourcing almost everything externally – must deliver: selection, relationships, and consistency in the cellar. Or, to borrow Odilon's logic: the percentages are not the goal. They are the result of getting the flavor right.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Célébris Rosé 2009 并不是仅仅依靠红色水果来取胜的玫瑰酒。它通过干爽、清晰和与食物的搭配来发挥作用。这是像 Gosset 这样的酒庄必须提供的强有力的例证——几乎所有东西都来自外部：选择、关系和酒窖中的一致性。或者，借用 Odilon 的逻辑：百分比不是目标，而是获得正确风味的结果。</p>
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</div><p><em>«Jauch's Selection»: The biweekly finews column in which <strong>Peter Jauch</strong> precisely classifies Champagne and other fine beverages and supplements them with practical service advice.</em></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><em>«Jauch 的选择»：每两周一次的 finews 专栏，<strong>Peter Jauch</strong> 精确分类香槟和其他优质饮品，并补充实用的服务建议。</em></p>
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乔赫的选择：一款为餐桌而打造的玫瑰红葡萄酒