<p>比尔·彼得斯</p>
<p>据报道，Everlane 正在被 Shein 收购。Depop 以折扣价出售。Allbirds 现在是一家人工智能公司。可持续时尚发生了什么？</p>
<p>4 月 2 日，在芝加哥，一家关闭的 Allbirds 商店的前门上挂着一块标志。</p>
<p>千禧一代的零售本应有原则。在过去的十年里，强调质量、可持续性和道德生产的品牌获得了大量消费者和高估值。然而，现在这些公司在一个消费者越来越关注单一购物指标——价格的时代中苦苦挣扎。</p>
<p>这一趋势的最新证据是：Everlane——一家在线服装零售商，其网站的可持续性部分表示其理想是 “反对快时尚模式而建立的”——据报道正在以 1 亿美元的交易被出售给终极快时尚品牌 Shein，新闻网站 Puck 周日报道。根据《信息》报道，这 1 亿美元的价格标签相比 Everlane 在 2020 年的 5.5 亿美元估值是一个大幅折扣。</p>
<p>Everlane 的出售报告是在面向年轻消费者的品牌（如 Allbirds 和 Depop）苦苦挣扎或以折扣价出售之后出现的。随着年轻消费者对价格的敏感性增加，社交媒体驱动的更快时尚周期和更便宜的制造成本使得那些为保持服装更可持续而支付更多的品牌面临更大的竞争压力。</p>
<p>对于许多千禧一代的购物者来说，Everlane 特别代表了品牌首次告诉他们一件 T 恤的制作成本和生产地点，LiquiDonate 的创始人兼首席执行官迪士尼·佩蒂特（Disney Petit）表示，该公司位于旧金山，软件将零售商的过剩库存和无法销售的退货产品与附近需要这些产品的非营利组织和学校匹配。</p>
<p>这与 Shein 的情况形成鲜明对比，后者被指控过度工作和低薪，并且是一个巨大的行业污染者。这家在线零售商对这些指控提出了异议，并表示正在投资改善。</p>
<p>“看到他们被 Shein 收购不仅仅是一个商业故事，这感觉像是一个世代故事，因为我们曾被承诺千禧一代的零售可以有所不同，” 佩蒂特谈到 Everlane 的消息时说。“但它刚刚被一个证明事情没有太大变化的品牌收购。”</p>
<p>Everlane 成立于 2011 年，公布了一些关于其使用的工厂以及其审计标准的细节。该公司强调其承诺使用回收和可再生材料，以及在一个超过 80% 的二手服装被焚烧或送往垃圾填埋场的行业中努力转售服装。根据政府数据，这些努力可能会很昂贵，从而推高消费者的价格。</p>
<p>Everlane 拒绝对 Puck 报道发表评论。该公司也拒绝回答有关其生产和采购可能如何变化的问题。</p>
<p>Shein 没有回应评论请求。Everlane 的主要股东投资公司 L Catterton 也没有回应，Puck 报道称该公司参与了此次出售。</p>
<p>理想可能不足以让零售商生存</p>
<p>据报道，Everlane 在收购前就面临困境，这表明仅仅迎合购物者的原则并不足够。</p>
<p>Puck 报道称，Everlane 的首席执行官一直在寻求投资者来帮助其应对大约 9000 万美元的债务。该报告还指出，来自亚马逊（AMZN）和迅销（JP:9983）的优衣库等公司的竞争使 Everlane 的业务更加困难，一些观察人士表示，Everlane 曾希望成为更高尚版本的 Gap（GAP）。</p>
<p>特拉华大学时尚与服装研究教授 Sheng Lu 表示，遵循更环保的商业模式的成本可能会累积。有机材料可能比聚酯更昂贵。此外，还有与收集和验证公司环境影响相关的数据的费用。</p>
<p>Lu 表示，这笔交易可能有助于 Shein 增强收入，因为它面临更严格的监管审查和美国主导的贸易战。他说，Shein 去年在美国失去了市场份额。根据 eMarketer 的数据，Shein 去年在美国的电子商务销售增长了 5%，低于更广泛的在线零售行业的 6.2% 增长。</p>
<p>eMarketer 分析师 Zak Stambor 在周一的一篇文章中写道，Shein 可能希望通过收购 Everlane 来提升其信誉。但他说，Everlane 的客户不太可能忽视 Shein 的声誉——或 Everlane 的采购标准与 Shein 的批评之间的差距。</p>
<p>“这种脱节可能使收购感觉更像是品牌扩张，而不是努力提升 Shein 的形象，” 他说。</p>
<p>Shein 通过廉价的外包劳动力和选择不建立零售店来保持低价。消费者继续购买，因为他们选择低价而非任何道德问题。</p>
<p>但即使是重视可持续性的服装购物者也并不总是坚持自己的标准。</p>
<p>佩蒂特表示，年轻消费者确实关心可持续性。但她指出，整体购物者的购买模式可能会有所不同：他们可能会为 Everlane 的道德采购产品支付 150 美元，但在同一周也可能会为 Shein 的商品花费 50 美元。</p>
<p>一次出售和向人工智能的转型</p>
<p>这种动态可能部分解释了为什么其他高尚的千禧一代企业表现不佳。</p>
<p>在 3 月，Allbirds（BIRD）表示已同意将其知识产权和其他资产以 3900 万美元出售给时尚品牌管理公司 American Exchange Group，并将寻求批准结束运营。过度扩张、竞争和科技男孩的陈词滥调最终使这家以树纤维和蟹壳制成鞋类而自豪的可持续运动鞋制造商沉没，曾经的市值为 41 亿美元。</p>
<p>上个月，Allbirds 宣布正在向人工智能转型。</p>
<p>今年早些时候，Etsy（ETSY）表示将以约 12 亿美元的价格将在线二手服装网站 Depop 出售给 eBay（EBAY），以便更加专注于其核心业务。这也意味着 Etsy 在 2021 年为 Depop 支付的 16 亿美元的减值。</p>
<p>Lu 还表示，快时尚的优势在于不平等的竞争环境以及政策制定者在鼓励更好行为方面的行动不足。</p>
<p>“如果他们的产品便宜是因为没有合理对待工人，或者便宜是因为使用了非常低质量、低成本的材料而不考虑其产品对环境和社会的影响，那就不是公平的竞争，” 他说。</p>
<p>尽管如此，Lu 表示他并不认为可持续的商业模式和更有意识的消费主义已经死去。原因之一是他学生们对 Everlane 被出售给 Shein 的消息感到失望，他说。</p>
<p>“他们表达的担忧让我感到一些信心，” 他说。</p>
<p>-Bill Peters</p>
<p>此内容由 MarketWatch 创作，MarketWatch 由道琼斯公司运营。MarketWatch 与道琼斯新闻通讯和《华尔街日报》独立出版。</p>
<p>（完）道琼斯新闻通讯</p>
<p>05-19-26 1541ET</p>

BIRD

<p>据报道，可持续时尚品牌 Everlane 正以 1 亿美元的价格出售给快时尚巨头 Shein，这一价格较其 2020 年 5.5 亿美元的估值大幅下降。这反映了消费者优先考虑低价而非可持续性的趋势。其他品牌如 Allbirds 和 Depop 也面临困境，突显了在价格敏感市场中强调伦理生产的公司所面临的挑战。专家表示，Everlane 的收购可能不会改善 Shein 的形象，因为消费者对其劳动实践仍持谨慎态度</p>

<p>By Bill Peters</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>比尔·彼得斯</p>
</div><p>Everlane is reportedly being sold to Shein. Depop was sold at a markdown. Allbirds is now an AI company. What's going on in sustainable fashion?</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>据报道，Everlane 正在被 Shein 收购。Depop 以折扣价出售。Allbirds 现在是一家人工智能公司。可持续时尚发生了什么？</p>
</div><p>A sign hangs on the front door of a shuttered Allbirds store on April 2 in Chicago.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>4 月 2 日，在芝加哥，一家关闭的 Allbirds 商店的前门上挂着一块标志。</p>
</div><p>Millennial-era retail was supposed to have principles. Over the past decade, brands emphasizing quality, sustainability and ethical production were rewarded with legions of shoppers and sky-high valuations. Now, those same companies are struggling to survive in an era where consumers are becoming laser-focused on one shopping metric - price.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>千禧一代的零售本应有原则。在过去的十年里，强调质量、可持续性和道德生产的品牌获得了大量消费者和高估值。然而，现在这些公司在一个消费者越来越关注单一购物指标——价格的时代中苦苦挣扎。</p>
</div><p>The latest evidence of this trend: Everlane - an online clothing retailer whose website's sustainability section says its ideals were &#34;built in opposition to the fast-fashion model&#34; - is reportedly being sold in a $100 million deal to the ultimate fast-fashion brand, Shein, the news site Puck reported Sunday. That $100 million price tag would be a steep discount to Everlane's valuation of $550 million in 2020, according to The Information.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这一趋势的最新证据是：Everlane——一家在线服装零售商，其网站的可持续性部分表示其理想是 “反对快时尚模式而建立的”——据报道正在以 1 亿美元的交易被出售给终极快时尚品牌 Shein，新闻网站 Puck 周日报道。根据《信息》报道，这 1 亿美元的价格标签相比 Everlane 在 2020 年的 5.5 亿美元估值是一个大幅折扣。</p>
</div><p>Everlane's reported sale comes after brands catering to younger consumers trying to shop their values, including Allbirds and Depop, have struggled or been sold at a markdown. Along with growing price-consciousness, particularly among younger consumers, faster fashion cycles driven by social media and cheaper manufacturing have made competition tougher for brands paying more to keep their clothing more sustainable.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Everlane 的出售报告是在面向年轻消费者的品牌（如 Allbirds 和 Depop）苦苦挣扎或以折扣价出售之后出现的。随着年轻消费者对价格的敏感性增加，社交媒体驱动的更快时尚周期和更便宜的制造成本使得那些为保持服装更可持续而支付更多的品牌面临更大的竞争压力。</p>
</div><p>For many millennial shoppers, Everlane in particular represented the first time a brand had told them how much a T-shirt cost to make and where it was made, said Disney Petit, the founder and CEO of LiquiDonate, a San Francisco-based company whose software matches retailers' excess inventory and unsellable returned products with nearby nonprofits and schools that need them</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>对于许多千禧一代的购物者来说，Everlane 特别代表了品牌首次告诉他们一件 T 恤的制作成本和生产地点，LiquiDonate 的创始人兼首席执行官迪士尼·佩蒂特（Disney Petit）表示，该公司位于旧金山，软件将零售商的过剩库存和无法销售的退货产品与附近需要这些产品的非营利组织和学校匹配。</p>
</div><p>That's a stark contrast with Shein, which has been accused of overworking and underpaying its workers, and of being a massive industry polluter. The online retailer has disputed those claims, and has said it is investing in improvements</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这与 Shein 的情况形成鲜明对比，后者被指控过度工作和低薪，并且是一个巨大的行业污染者。这家在线零售商对这些指控提出了异议，并表示正在投资改善。</p>
</div><p>&#34;Watching them get acquired by Shein isn't just a business story, it feels like a generational story, because we were promised that millennial retail could be different,&#34; Petit said of the news about Everlane. &#34;But it just got bought by a brand that has proven that things haven't changed very much.&#34;</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“看到他们被 Shein 收购不仅仅是一个商业故事，这感觉像是一个世代故事，因为我们曾被承诺千禧一代的零售可以有所不同，” 佩蒂特谈到 Everlane 的消息时说。“但它刚刚被一个证明事情没有太大变化的品牌收购。”</p>
</div><p>Founded in 2011, Everlane publishes some details about the factories it uses, as well as its audit standards. The company has emphasized its commitments to use recycled and renewable materials, and its efforts to resell clothing in an industry where more than 80% of used clothing gets incinerated or sent to a landfill, according to government data. Those kinds of efforts can be costly, pushing up prices for consumers.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Everlane 成立于 2011 年，公布了一些关于其使用的工厂以及其审计标准的细节。该公司强调其承诺使用回收和可再生材料，以及在一个超过 80% 的二手服装被焚烧或送往垃圾填埋场的行业中努力转售服装。根据政府数据，这些努力可能会很昂贵，从而推高消费者的价格。</p>
</div><p>Everlane declined to comment on the Puck report. The company also declined to answer questions about how its production and sourcing might change.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Everlane 拒绝对 Puck 报道发表评论。该公司也拒绝回答有关其生产和采购可能如何变化的问题。</p>
</div><p>Shein did not respond to a request for comment. Neither did the investment firm L Catterton, Everlane's majority owner, which Puck reported participated in the sale.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Shein 没有回应评论请求。Everlane 的主要股东投资公司 L Catterton 也没有回应，Puck 报道称该公司参与了此次出售。</p>
</div><p>Ideals may not be enough to keep retailers afloat</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>理想可能不足以让零售商生存</p>
</div><p>Everlane was reportedly struggling before the acquisition, indicating that catering to shoppers' principles alone wasn't enough.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>据报道，Everlane 在收购前就面临困境，这表明仅仅迎合购物者的原则并不足够。</p>
</div><p>Puck reported that Everlane's CEO had been seeking an investor to help it deal with roughly $90 million in debt. That report also noted that competition from companies like Amazon (AMZN) and Fast Retailing's (JP:9983) Uniqlo made business more difficult for Everlane, which some observers said once aspired to be a higher-minded version of the Gap (GAP).</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Puck 报道称，Everlane 的首席执行官一直在寻求投资者来帮助其应对大约 9000 万美元的债务。该报告还指出，来自亚马逊（AMZN）和迅销（JP:9983）的优衣库等公司的竞争使 Everlane 的业务更加困难，一些观察人士表示，Everlane 曾希望成为更高尚版本的 Gap（GAP）。</p>
</div><p>Sheng Lu, a fashion and apparel-studies professor at the University of Delaware, said that the costs of adhering to a more environmentally friendly approach to business can add up. Organic materials can be more expensive than polyester. And there are expenses related to collecting and verifying data related to a company's environmental impact.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>特拉华大学时尚与服装研究教授 Sheng Lu 表示，遵循更环保的商业模式的成本可能会累积。有机材料可能比聚酯更昂贵。此外，还有与收集和验证公司环境影响相关的数据的费用。</p>
</div><p>Lu said the deal could help Shein shore up revenue, as it deals with tougher regulatory scrutiny and the U.S.-led trade war. Shein also lost market share in the U.S. last year, he said. According to eMarketer, Shein's U.S. e-commerce sales rose 5% last year, lagging the 6.2% growth for the broader online retail industry.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Lu 表示，这笔交易可能有助于 Shein 增强收入，因为它面临更严格的监管审查和美国主导的贸易战。他说，Shein 去年在美国失去了市场份额。根据 eMarketer 的数据，Shein 去年在美国的电子商务销售增长了 5%，低于更广泛的在线零售行业的 6.2% 增长。</p>
</div><p>Shein could be seeking to elevate its credibility in possibly pursuing Everlane, eMarketer analyst Zak Stambor wrote in a post on Monday. But he said Everlane's customers were unlikely to ignore Shein's reputation - or the gap between Everlane's sourcing standards and the criticisms made against Shein.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>eMarketer 分析师 Zak Stambor 在周一的一篇文章中写道，Shein 可能希望通过收购 Everlane 来提升其信誉。但他说，Everlane 的客户不太可能忽视 Shein 的声誉——或 Everlane 的采购标准与 Shein 的批评之间的差距。</p>
</div><p>&#34;That disconnect risks making the acquisition feel less like brand expansion and more like an effort to polish Shein's image,&#34; he said.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“这种脱节可能使收购感觉更像是品牌扩张，而不是努力提升 Shein 的形象，” 他说。</p>
</div><p>Shein has kept prices low through cheap, outsourced labor and by opting not to build retail stores. Customers have kept buying, as they choose low prices over any ethical concerns.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Shein 通过廉价的外包劳动力和选择不建立零售店来保持低价。消费者继续购买，因为他们选择低价而非任何道德问题。</p>
</div><p>But even clothing shoppers who value sustainability aren't totally consistent with their standards.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>但即使是重视可持续性的服装购物者也并不总是坚持自己的标准。</p>
</div><p>Petit said that younger consumers do care about sustainability. But she noted the buying patterns of shoppers overall can vary: They might pay $150 for ethically-sourced gear from Everlane, but in the same week also spend $50 for items on Shein.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>佩蒂特表示，年轻消费者确实关心可持续性。但她指出，整体购物者的购买模式可能会有所不同：他们可能会为 Everlane 的道德采购产品支付 150 美元，但在同一周也可能会为 Shein 的商品花费 50 美元。</p>
</div><p>A sale and a pivot to AI</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>一次出售和向人工智能的转型</p>
</div><p>That dynamic may partly account for why other high-minded millennial businesses haven't fared well.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>这种动态可能部分解释了为什么其他高尚的千禧一代企业表现不佳。</p>
</div><p>In March, Allbirds (BIRD) said it had agreed to sell its intellectual property and other assets to fashion-brand manager American Exchange Group for $39 million and would seek approval to wind down. Overexpansion, competition and tech-bro cliches ultimately sank the sustainable sneaker-maker, which prided itself on footwear made from tree fiber and crab shells and once had a market cap of $4.1 billion.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在 3 月，Allbirds（BIRD）表示已同意将其知识产权和其他资产以 3900 万美元出售给时尚品牌管理公司 American Exchange Group，并将寻求批准结束运营。过度扩张、竞争和科技男孩的陈词滥调最终使这家以树纤维和蟹壳制成鞋类而自豪的可持续运动鞋制造商沉没，曾经的市值为 41 亿美元。</p>
</div><p>Last month, Allbirds announced it was making a pivot to AI.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>上个月，Allbirds 宣布正在向人工智能转型。</p>
</div><p>Earlier this year, Etsy (ETSY) said it would sell online secondhand-clothing site Depop to eBay (EBAY) for roughly $1.2 billion, in an effort to focus more on its core business. That also represented a markdown from the $1.6 billion Etsy paid for Depop in 2021.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>今年早些时候，Etsy（ETSY）表示将以约 12 亿美元的价格将在线二手服装网站 Depop 出售给 eBay（EBAY），以便更加专注于其核心业务。这也意味着 Etsy 在 2021 年为 Depop 支付的 16 亿美元的减值。</p>
</div><p>Lu also said fast-fashion's advantages came down to an uneven playing field and insufficient action from policymakers to encourage better behavior.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Lu 还表示，快时尚的优势在于不平等的竞争环境以及政策制定者在鼓励更好行为方面的行动不足。</p>
</div><p>&#34;If they're cheap because they do not treat their workers decently enough, or they're cheap because they use really low-quality, low-cost materials without considering the environmental and social impact of their products, that is not a fair game,&#34; he said.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“如果他们的产品便宜是因为没有合理对待工人，或者便宜是因为使用了非常低质量、低成本的材料而不考虑其产品对环境和社会的影响，那就不是公平的竞争，” 他说。</p>
</div><p>Still, Lu said he doesn't believe sustainable businesses - and a more conscientious consumerism - are dead. One reason why? The disappointment in his students on the news that Everlane was being sold to Shein, he said.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>尽管如此，Lu 表示他并不认为可持续的商业模式和更有意识的消费主义已经死去。原因之一是他学生们对 Everlane 被出售给 Shein 的消息感到失望，他说。</p>
</div><p>&#34;Their expressed concern gives me some confidence,&#34; he said.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>“他们表达的担忧让我感到一些信心，” 他说。</p>
</div><p>-Bill Peters</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>-Bill Peters</p>
</div><p>This content was created by MarketWatch, which is operated by Dow Jones &amp; Co. MarketWatch is published independently from Dow Jones Newswires and The Wall Street Journal.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>此内容由 MarketWatch 创作，MarketWatch 由道琼斯公司运营。MarketWatch 与道琼斯新闻通讯和《华尔街日报》独立出版。</p>
</div><p>(END) Dow Jones Newswires</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>（完）道琼斯新闻通讯</p>
</div><p>05-19-26 1541ET</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>05-19-26 1541ET</p>
</div>

Millennial-era retail was supposed to have principles. But lower prices have won out.

Dow Jones

千禧一代时代的零售业本应坚持原则，但最终还是较低的价格占据了主导地位