<p>劣質成分、毀壞的食譜和棕櫚油的泛濫——“劣質化” 已經侵蝕了現代生活的各個方面，我們的超市貨架也不例外。</p>
<p>這個術語（最初用來形容在線服務的惡化）引起了公眾的共鳴，公眾對多年來價格上漲和質量下降感到厭倦。它主要描述像谷歌（已經不再是曾經有用的影子）和皇家郵政（現在試圖像一個懶惰的送報員一樣逃避週六的投遞）這樣的服務，但同樣適用於產品——例如迅速惡化的微軟 Windows、一次性家用電器，以及，沒錯，食品。</p>
<p>我只需輸入 “Dairy Milk” 或 “Creme Egg” 這幾個詞，你就知道我在説什麼。卡德伯裏可能是劣質化最臭名昭著的受害者，自 2010 年被美國巨頭卡夫（現為蒙德利茲國際）收購以來，其產品質量穩步下降。但翻過你最喜歡的任何包裝（由於 “縮水通脹”，包裝可能本來就更小），你會注意到標籤上的類似模式——對既定食譜的削減成本調整、用更便宜的成分替代優質成分，以及，通常，將生產外包給外國工廠。</p>
<p>棕櫚油——製造商可以使用的最便宜的食用脂肪——無處不在。可可含量在下降，植物塗抹油中的橄欖油比例也在下降。香蒜醬製造商用腰果代替更昂貴的松子，其他硬奶酪代替帕爾馬奶酪。利比納的黑加侖含量減少了，藍色條形巧克力技術上不再是巧克力棒，而 Yeo Valley 的可塗抹黃油中實際的黃油含量也減少了一點。總體而言，鱷梨醬的鱷梨含量減少，香腸中的豬肉含量減少，幾乎所有超市的即食餐肉類含量都在緩慢但明顯地減少，取而代之的是更便宜的填充物。</p>
<p>這被形容為一場向底部的競賽。監管因素如糖税在某些情況下助長了這一現象，環境壓力、成分短缺和運營考慮也是如此，但——與所有其他類型的劣質化一樣——這主要是關於金錢。銷售更便宜的產品以更高的零售價格意味着比保持食譜不變獲得更好的回報。</p>
<p>因此，向這些尚未受到影響的最愛致敬。請在評論區告訴我們你最喜歡的英國食品。</p>
<h2>Bird’s Custard Powder</h2>
<p>由阿爾弗雷德·伯德在伯明翰開發，因為他的妻子對雞蛋過敏，Bird’s custard powder 在近兩個世紀後仍然保持着簡單的素食成分列表，包括玉米澱粉、鹽、天然香料和來自植物的食用色素安納託。它與 1830 年代的原型並不完全相同，但也差不多，而且與幾乎所有其他布丁通道的產品不同，它不含棕櫚油或乳木果油、甜味劑或字母湯乳化劑。</p>
<p>擁有者 Tate &amp; Lyle 可能在 2024 年對 140 年曆史的死獅子標誌進行了令人遺忘的千禧風格——抱歉，“新鮮和現代” 的重新設計，但內部產品（一種琥珀色的反轉糖漿）基本上沒有變化。原版（坦率地説有點奇怪）的聖經參考仍然可以在金屬罐上找到，而擠壓塑料瓶則有風格化的、更愉快的（敢我説是劣質化的）版本。</p>
<h2>Lea &amp; Perrins</h2>
<p>儘管無法正確發音 “Worcestershire”，美國人在十年前成功收購了 Lea &amp; Perrins，併為他們的國內市場生產了一種變種的、甜味的版本。然而，英國人仍然可以獲得相對真實的歷史食譜反映，包括相對昂貴的麥芽醋，而在劣質化的調味品中，麥芽醋常常被更便宜的酒精醋所替代。</p>
<p>水、葡萄糖、糖和薄荷油仍然是大多數流行版本的唯一成分。雖然其他高能量棒的加工和改動幾乎到了極致，但來自像 Romney’s、Wilson’s 和 Quiggins 這樣的多代製造商的 Kendal Mint Cake 幾乎與以往一樣。</p>
<h2>Gentleman’s Relish</h2>
<p>在全國的冰箱門中，依然存在這種由鳳尾魚、黃油和香料混合而成的調味品，每天早晨為英國的黃油吐司提供複雜而強烈的鮮味。現在由波蘭製造，通常以塑料罐而非陶瓷碗的形式出現，但仍遵循 1820 年代的原始食譜。</p>
<h2>Walker’s Shortbread</h2>
<p>在一罐短餅的成分列表中，你應該只找到 3:2:1 比例的麪粉、糖和黃油，以及一小撮鹽，而 Walker’s 是一個在過去一個世紀中默默滿足這一期望的品牌。較小的製造商有時會在食譜中加入其他脂肪，有時是以素食主義的名義。</p>
<p>作為瑪格麗特·撒切爾和埃馬紐埃爾·馬克龍的最愛，Fisherman’s Friend 喉糖——由已故的多琳·洛夫斯開發並推廣，仍由同名家族公司在蘭開夏郡生產，包含幾乎相同的桉樹油、甘草、糖和一種古老的增稠劑——龍舌蘭膠。Fisherman’s Friend 的生產中超過 90% 是出口，每年在國外消費超過 40 億顆喉糖。</p>
<h2>Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls</h2>
<p>Uncle Joe’s 三種成分的薄荷球仍在維根按照 1898 年的原始食譜生產，成分包括塔塔粉、薄荷和甘蔗糖。喜歡傳統糖果的人可以探索 William Santus &amp; Co 的其他產品，其中包括一些令人愉悦的未被改動的糖果。</p>

COCO

<p>這篇文章討論了由於削減成本措施，許多英國食品產品質量下降的現象，稱之為 “ensh-ttification”。文章強調了像卡德伯裏巧克力和各種調味品等受歡迎的產品因成分質量降低和使用更便宜的替代品而受到影響。然而，文章也讚揚了一些保持不變的英國食品，如 Bird’s Custard Powder、Lea & Perrins、Kendal Mint Cake、Gentleman’s Relish 和 Walker’s Shortbread，這些產品繼續使用傳統配方和高質量成分</p>

<p>Inferior ingredients, ruined recipes and a proliferation of palm oil – “ensh-ttification” has infested all parts of modern life and our supermarket shelves are no exception.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>劣質成分、毀壞的食譜和棕櫚油的泛濫——“劣質化” 已經侵蝕了現代生活的各個方面，我們的超市貨架也不例外。</p>
</div><p>The term (first coined to describe the worsening of online services) has struck a chord with an exasperated public, weary from many years of rising prices and falling quality. It primarily describes services like Google (a shadow of its former useful self) and Royal Mail (now trying to shirk its Saturday rounds like an idle paper boy), but it applies just as much to products – such as the rapidly worsening Microsoft Windows, throwaway domestic appliances and, yes, food.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>這個術語（最初用來形容在線服務的惡化）引起了公眾的共鳴，公眾對多年來價格上漲和質量下降感到厭倦。它主要描述像谷歌（已經不再是曾經有用的影子）和皇家郵政（現在試圖像一個懶惰的送報員一樣逃避週六的投遞）這樣的服務，但同樣適用於產品——例如迅速惡化的微軟 Windows、一次性家用電器，以及，沒錯，食品。</p>
</div><p>I only need to type the words “Dairy Milk” or “Creme Egg” for you to know what I mean. Cadbury is probably ensh-ttification’s most notorious victim, its products having steadily worsened since being bought out by US giant Kraft (now Mondelēz International) in 2010. But flip over any of your favourite packets (likely smaller anyway thanks to “shrinkflation”) and you’ll notice similar patterns on the label – cost-cutting tweaks to established recipes, substitution of quality ingredients for cheaper ones and, often, outsourcing of production to foreign factories.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>我只需輸入 “Dairy Milk” 或 “Creme Egg” 這幾個詞，你就知道我在説什麼。卡德伯裏可能是劣質化最臭名昭著的受害者，自 2010 年被美國巨頭卡夫（現為蒙德利茲國際）收購以來，其產品質量穩步下降。但翻過你最喜歡的任何包裝（由於 “縮水通脹”，包裝可能本來就更小），你會注意到標籤上的類似模式——對既定食譜的削減成本調整、用更便宜的成分替代優質成分，以及，通常，將生產外包給外國工廠。</p>
</div><p>Palm oil – the cheapest edible fat manufacturers can use – is everywhere. Cocoa content is falling, as is the percentage of olive oil in vegetable spreads. Pesto manufacturers are using cashews instead of more expensive pine nuts, and other hard cheeses in place of Parmesan. Ribena has a little less blackcurrant in it, Blue Riband is technically no longer a chocolate bar and Yeo Valley’s spreadable butter has just a little bit less actual butter in it. Across the board, guacamole delivers less avocado, sausages contain less pork and ready meals from almost all supermarkets are having their meat content slowly but noticeably reduced, to be replaced with cheaper filler.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>棕櫚油——製造商可以使用的最便宜的食用脂肪——無處不在。可可含量在下降，植物塗抹油中的橄欖油比例也在下降。香蒜醬製造商用腰果代替更昂貴的松子，其他硬奶酪代替帕爾馬奶酪。利比納的黑加侖含量減少了，藍色條形巧克力技術上不再是巧克力棒，而 Yeo Valley 的可塗抹黃油中實際的黃油含量也減少了一點。總體而言，鱷梨醬的鱷梨含量減少，香腸中的豬肉含量減少，幾乎所有超市的即食餐肉類含量都在緩慢但明顯地減少，取而代之的是更便宜的填充物。</p>
</div><p>It’s been described as a race to the bottom. Regulatory factors such as the sugar tax contribute to this phenomenon in some circumstances, as do environmental pressures, ingredient shortages and operational considerations, but – as with all other types of ensh-ttification – this is mostly about money. Selling less of a cheaper product for a higher retail price means much better returns than leaving recipes unchanged.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>這被形容為一場向底部的競賽。監管因素如糖税在某些情況下助長了這一現象，環境壓力、成分短缺和運營考慮也是如此，但——與所有其他類型的劣質化一樣——這主要是關於金錢。銷售更便宜的產品以更高的零售價格意味着比保持食譜不變獲得更好的回報。</p>
</div><p>Kudos, then, to these so-far-untouched favourites. Let us know your go-to British foods in the comments section below.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>因此，向這些尚未受到影響的最愛致敬。請在評論區告訴我們你最喜歡的英國食品。</p>
</div><h2>Bird’s Custard Powder</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Bird’s Custard Powder</h2>
</div><p>Developed by Alfred Bird in Birmingham, because his wife was allergic to eggs, Bird’s custard powder retains its straightforward, vegan ingredient list of cornflour, salt, natural flavouring and annatto (the plant-derived food colouring) after almost two full centuries. It isn’t identical to the 1830s prototypes but it isn’t far off, and, unlike almost every other product in the pudding aisle, it doesn’t contain palm or shea oil, sweeteners or alphabet-soup emulsifiers.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>由阿爾弗雷德·伯德在伯明翰開發，因為他的妻子對雞蛋過敏，Bird’s custard powder 在近兩個世紀後仍然保持着簡單的素食成分列表，包括玉米澱粉、鹽、天然香料和來自植物的食用色素安納託。它與 1830 年代的原型並不完全相同，但也差不多，而且與幾乎所有其他布丁通道的產品不同，它不含棕櫚油或乳木果油、甜味劑或字母湯乳化劑。</p>
</div><p>Owner Tate &amp; Lyle might have given the 140-year-old dead lion logo a forgettably millennial-flavoured – sorry, “fresh and contemporary” – redesign in 2024, but the product inside (an amber-coloured form of inverted sugar syrup) remains fundamentally unchanged. Fans of the original (and frankly a bit weird) Biblical reference can still find it on the metal tins, while the squeezy plastic bottles have the stylised, cheerier (dare I say ensh-ttified) version.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>擁有者 Tate &amp; Lyle 可能在 2024 年對 140 年曆史的死獅子標誌進行了令人遺忘的千禧風格——抱歉，“新鮮和現代” 的重新設計，但內部產品（一種琥珀色的反轉糖漿）基本上沒有變化。原版（坦率地説有點奇怪）的聖經參考仍然可以在金屬罐上找到，而擠壓塑料瓶則有風格化的、更愉快的（敢我説是劣質化的）版本。</p>
</div><h2>Lea &amp; Perrins</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Lea &amp; Perrins</h2>
</div><p>Despite not being able to pronounce “Worcestershire”, the Americans managed to acquire Lea &amp; Perrins a decade ago and produce a bastardised, sweetened version for their domestic market. However, Brits still get a plausibly authentic reflection of the historic recipe, including relatively expensive malt vinegar, which often gets swapped out for cheaper spirit vinegar in ensh-ttified condiments.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>儘管無法正確發音 “Worcestershire”，美國人在十年前成功收購了 Lea &amp; Perrins，併為他們的國內市場生產了一種變種的、甜味的版本。然而，英國人仍然可以獲得相對真實的歷史食譜反映，包括相對昂貴的麥芽醋，而在劣質化的調味品中，麥芽醋常常被更便宜的酒精醋所替代。</p>
</div><p>Water, glucose, sugar and peppermint oil are still the only ingredients in most popular versions of this hiking snack. While other high-energy bars are about as processed and messed-around-with as possible, Kendal Mint Cake from multi-generational manufacturers like Romney’s, Wilson’s and Quiggins’ is pretty much the same as it’s always been.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>水、葡萄糖、糖和薄荷油仍然是大多數流行版本的唯一成分。雖然其他高能量棒的加工和改動幾乎到了極致，但來自像 Romney’s、Wilson’s 和 Quiggins 這樣的多代製造商的 Kendal Mint Cake 幾乎與以往一樣。</p>
</div><h2>Gentleman’s Relish</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Gentleman’s Relish</h2>
</div><p>Lurking unchanged in the nation’s fridge door is this mixture of anchovies, butter and spice that delivers a sophisticated but powerful umami honk to buttery toast across Britain every morning. Poland now manufactures it, and it tends to come in plastic pots rather than ceramic dishes, but it still follows the original 1820s recipe.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在全國的冰箱門中，依然存在這種由鳳尾魚、黃油和香料混合而成的調味品，每天早晨為英國的黃油吐司提供複雜而強烈的鮮味。現在由波蘭製造，通常以塑料罐而非陶瓷碗的形式出現，但仍遵循 1820 年代的原始食譜。</p>
</div><h2>Walker’s Shortbread</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Walker’s Shortbread</h2>
</div><p>Flour, sugar and butter in a 3:2:1 ratio, with a pinch of salt, is all you should find on the ingredients list of a tin of shortbread, and Walker’s is one of the brands that has been quietly meeting this expectation for over a century. Lesser manufacturers have managed to shoehorn other fats into the recipe, sometimes in the name of veganism.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在一罐短餅的成分列表中，你應該只找到 3:2:1 比例的麪粉、糖和黃油，以及一小撮鹽，而 Walker’s 是一個在過去一個世紀中默默滿足這一期望的品牌。較小的製造商有時會在食譜中加入其他脂肪，有時是以素食主義的名義。</p>
</div><p>A favourite of both Margaret Thatcher and Emmanuel Macron, the Fisherman’s Friend lozenge – developed and popularised by the late Doreen Lofthouse, and still manufactured in the billions by the family firm of the same name in Lancashire – contains pretty much the same eucalyptus, liquorice, sugar and an old-timey thickener called tragacanth. More than 90 per cent of Fisherman’s Friend production is exported, with over four billion individual lozenges consumed abroad each year.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>作為瑪格麗特·撒切爾和埃馬紐埃爾·馬克龍的最愛，Fisherman’s Friend 喉糖——由已故的多琳·洛夫斯開發並推廣，仍由同名家族公司在蘭開夏郡生產，包含幾乎相同的桉樹油、甘草、糖和一種古老的增稠劑——龍舌蘭膠。Fisherman’s Friend 的生產中超過 90% 是出口，每年在國外消費超過 40 億顆喉糖。</p>
</div><h2>Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls</h2>
<div class="lb-trans"><h2>Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls</h2>
</div><p>Uncle Joe’s three-ingredient Mint Balls are still produced in Wigan to the original recipe involving cream of tartar, peppermint and cane sugar, as they were in 1898. Enjoyers of no-nonsense traditional confectionery can explore the rest of the William Santus &amp; Co range, which includes some pleasingly un-messed-around-with sweets.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Uncle Joe’s 三種成分的薄荷球仍在維根按照 1898 年的原始食譜生產，成分包括塔塔粉、薄荷和甘蔗糖。喜歡傳統糖果的人可以探索 William Santus &amp; Co 的其他產品，其中包括一些令人愉悦的未被改動的糖果。</p>
</div>

那些一直以來都保持着優良品質的英國食品