<p>提到玫瑰紅酒，大多數酒愛好者會聯想到一系列熟悉的風味聯想——甜美豐盈，或清新果香。然而，Célébris Rosé 2009 並不符合這兩種描述。</p>
<p>這是一款來自該產區最古老酒莊的高端香檳。它是一款建立在強大酒基之上的玫瑰紅酒——它在餐桌上佔有一席之地。稍後會詳細介紹。</p>
<p><strong>温暖而慷慨的年份</strong></p>
<p>儘管在過程中遇到了一些挑戰，2009 年的香檳年份依然温暖。葡萄的成熟度和實質感得到了很好的體現。但在這樣的年份，酒窖中的操作與葡萄園中的情況同樣重要。在戈塞酒莊，這一責任由 <strong>Odilon de Varine</strong> 擔任酒窖主管近二十年。</p>
<p><strong>傳統與現代商業模式</strong></p>
<p>戈塞酒莊被廣泛認為是香檳最古老的酒莊。對於這個品牌來説，2009 年也是一個組織上的關鍵年份：在收穫前不久，酒莊遷到了位於埃佩爾奈的新家。這一搬遷得以實現，是通過收購 <strong>Laurent-Perrier</strong> 的一處設備齊全的物業——該物業最初是通過購買 Château Malakoff 獲得的。</p>
<p><strong>Bernard de Nonancourt</strong> 在 2010 年去世之前一直塑造着 Laurent-Perrier，他希望一家家族經營的香檳酒莊能夠接管該地產。戈塞在多個層面上符合這一願景。位於 Aÿ 的現有設施早已達到容量極限，而戈塞自 1993/1994 年起一直由 Renaud-Cointreau/Cointreau 家族管理。</p>
<p><strong>當葡萄價格重要時</strong></p>
<p>從商業角度來看，戈塞對其運營的一個方面非常坦誠：大約 99% 的葡萄是從外部種植者那裏購買的，正如酒莊在埃佩爾奈設施的參觀中所明確表示的那樣。葡萄價格在每公斤 8 到 14 歐元之間，這意味着每次收穫都需要進行大量投資。生產一瓶酒需要 1.4 公斤的葡萄——這意味着年產量至少需要 140 萬公斤。</p>
<p>戈塞如今幾乎沒有自有葡萄園，這在一定程度上是由於多年來所有權的變遷，期間葡萄園的持有逐漸減少。這種模式在香檳中普遍存在，當品牌易手時，焦點往往轉向土地而非酒莊身份。這並不是缺陷——但這完全改變了任務。質量不再建立在自己的地塊上，而是依賴於選擇、供應商關係、與種植者家庭的持續聯繫，以及從購買的水果中構建可識別風格的能力。</p>
<p><em><img src="https://imageproxy.pbkrs.com/https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg?x-oss-process=image/auto-orient,1/interlace,1/resize,w_1440,h_1440/quality,q_95/format,jpg" alt="" original-src="https://imageproxy.pbkrs.com/https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg"/></em></p>
<p><em>乾爽和清晰使得 Célébris Rosé 2009 成為餐桌上的自然伴侶。（圖片：提供）</em></p>
<p><strong>定義風格的兩個聲音</strong></p>
<p>在戈塞，這項工作有兩個名字。Odilon de Varine 擔任酒窖主管和常務董事，<strong>Pierre de Caffarelli</strong> 在過去近一年中擔任釀酒學負責人。經過一次以品酒結束的埃佩爾奈設施參觀後，兩人的發言聽起來更像是工藝和明確的角色分工，而非營銷文案。</p>
<p>Odilon 的邏輯很簡單：在戈塞，討論很少以百分比目標開始。目標是風味識別——數字是從正確的味道中得出的。</p>
<p>他同樣明確玫瑰紅酒應該是什麼：精緻、優雅、易飲。玫瑰紅酒的顏色是次要的。這也是所有後調配品嚐都在黑色酒杯中進行的原因之一。一個一致的風味輪廓是基礎系列玫瑰紅酒的基準。</p>
<p>Pierre 強調了一個常常被低估但強烈塑造玫瑰香檳特徵的點：戈塞的玫瑰紅酒是通過將自家紅酒混合而成，而不是通過浸漬或泵壓法。他補充道，這句話在某種程度上是本文的關鍵：玫瑰紅酒可以是果味的——但請，不僅僅是果味。</p>
<p><strong>為何僅以玫瑰紅酒的形式存在</strong></p>
<p>戈塞將 Célébris 2009 僅作為玫瑰紅酒發佈。沒有白酒，也沒有第二種變體。這很少見——正是這使其變得有趣。這反映了一種深思熟慮的決定：在最佳年份，僅創造最能代表戈塞風格的酒。</p>
<p>參數很簡單——然而它們非常清楚地解釋了為何 Célébris Rosé 2009 在酒杯中的表現如此。70% 的霞多麗，30% 的黑比諾，9% 的來自 Bouzy 和 Cumières 的紅酒，以及每升三克的糖分，使其堅定地處於特幹香檳的領域。這種結構保持了香檳的乾爽，並賦予其清晰的線條——這意味着它不依賴於快速開胃的效果，而是真正適合餐桌。</p>
<p>在口感上，紅果的味道讓位於精確的輪廓——隨着温度的升高，這種輪廓變得更加豐富。冷飲但不冰冷，迅速顯現出這款酒是為設定好的餐桌而釀造的：一個香檳不僅僅是為了提神，而是為了搭配菜餚。</p>
<p><strong>時間，而非橡木</strong></p>
<p>品嚐中有一個觀察值得強調，因為它常常被誤解。許多人將成熟的香檳解讀為 “橡木”。Pierre 的表述令人難忘：一些人認為的橡木往往只是時間。</p>
<p><strong>食物：海鮮——以及為何咖啡醬扇貝是真正的考驗</strong></p>
<p>海鮮被稱為自然搭配。但令人印象深刻的搭配是咖啡醬扇貝。這個組合聽起來像是對比——而且確實是一個誠實的考驗。如果一款玫瑰香檳能夠在不變甜或金屬味的情況下保持乾淨，那麼它就跨越了一個門檻：它不再是 “瞬間的玫瑰”。它是一款酒。</p>
<p>三種特別適合的搭配：</p>
<p>… 金槍魚（塔塔基或生魚片）：鹽、蛋白質、乾爽。</p>
<p>… 帶有烤香氣的家禽：雞肉、蘑菇、少許柑橘。</p>
<p>… 熟肉：風乾、優雅調味、不沉重。</p>
<hr/>
<p><strong>享受工具</strong></p>
<p>… 温度：不要從冰冷開始。大約 10 攝氏度是最佳表現的温度；在酒杯中升高幾度會更好。</p>
<p>… 酒杯：不要使用香檳杯。使用鬱金香杯或小紅酒杯——這樣它仍然是酒，而不僅僅是氣泡。</p>
<p>… 時機：第一杯是引入。幾分鐘後，它會沉澱，變得更乾淨、更清晰。</p>
<p>瑞士的通知：<strong>Martel Weine</strong> 將在 2026 年秋季在瑞士銷售和展示 Célébris Rosé 2009。</p>
<p><strong>Jauch 的結論</strong></p>
<p>Célébris Rosé 2009 並不是僅僅依靠紅色水果來取勝的玫瑰酒。它通過乾爽、清晰和與食物的搭配來發揮作用。這是像 Gosset 這樣的酒莊必須提供的強有力的例證——幾乎所有東西都來自外部：選擇、關係和酒窖中的一致性。或者，借用 Odilon 的邏輯：百分比不是目標，而是獲得正確風味的結果。</p>
<hr/>
<p><em>«Jauch 的選擇»：每兩週一次的 finews 專欄，<strong>Peter Jauch</strong> 精確分類香檳和其他優質飲品，並補充實用的服務建議。</em></p>

酒ETF

招商中證白酒指數A

華夏中證細分食品飲料產業主題ETF

招商國證食品飲料ETF

<p>Gosset，最古老的香檳酒莊，推出了 Célébris Rosé 2009，這是一款獨特的奢華玫瑰香檳，挑戰了典型的風味特徵。該酒由 99% 的外部葡萄釀成，體現了對質量和傳統的承諾，注重風味而非生產目標。2009 年份以温暖為特徵，展示了 70% 的霞多麗和 30% 的黑比諾的混合，旨在釀造出乾爽而優雅的口感。Gosset 決定將這款酒僅以玫瑰香檳的形式發佈，突顯了其對展現獨特風格的執着</p>

<p>Mention rosé to most wine lovers and a familiar set of flavor associations tends to surface – sweet and lush, or fresh and berry-forward. The Célébris Rosé 2009 fits neither description.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>提到玫瑰紅酒，大多數酒愛好者會聯想到一系列熟悉的風味聯想——甜美豐盈，或清新果香。然而，Célébris Rosé 2009 並不符合這兩種描述。</p>
</div><p>This is a prestige Champagne from the oldest wine house in the appellation. A rosé built on a powerful wine foundation – one that earns its place at the table. More on that shortly.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>這是一款來自該產區最古老酒莊的高端香檳。它是一款建立在強大酒基之上的玫瑰紅酒——它在餐桌上佔有一席之地。稍後會詳細介紹。</p>
</div><p><strong>A Warm and Generous Vintage</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>温暖而慷慨的年份</strong></p>
</div><p>The 2009 vintage in Champagne was warm, despite some challenges along the way. Ripeness and substance were well expressed in the grapes. But in years like this, what happens in the cellar matters just as much as what happens in the vineyard. At Gosset, that responsibility has rested with <strong>Odilon de Varine</strong> as cellar master for nearly two decades.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>儘管在過程中遇到了一些挑戰，2009 年的香檳年份依然温暖。葡萄的成熟度和實質感得到了很好的體現。但在這樣的年份，酒窖中的操作與葡萄園中的情況同樣重要。在戈塞酒莊，這一責任由 <strong>Odilon de Varine</strong> 擔任酒窖主管近二十年。</p>
</div><p><strong>Tradition and a Very Current Business Model</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>傳統與現代商業模式</strong></p>
</div><p>Gosset is widely recognized as Champagne's oldest wine house. For the brand, 2009 was also a pivotal year organizationally: just before harvest, the house relocated to a new home in Épernay. The move was made possible by acquiring a fully equipped property from <strong>Laurent-Perrier</strong> – originally obtained through its purchase of Château Malakoff.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>戈塞酒莊被廣泛認為是香檳最古老的酒莊。對於這個品牌來説，2009 年也是一個組織上的關鍵年份：在收穫前不久，酒莊遷到了位於埃佩爾奈的新家。這一搬遷得以實現，是通過收購 <strong>Laurent-Perrier</strong> 的一處設備齊全的物業——該物業最初是通過購買 Château Malakoff 獲得的。</p>
</div><p><strong>Bernard de Nonancourt</strong>, who shaped Laurent-Perrier until his death in 2010, had hoped a family-run Champagne house would take over the estate. Gosset fit that vision on multiple levels. The existing facilities in Aÿ had long since reached capacity, and Gosset had been under the management of the Renaud-Cointreau/Cointreau family since 1993/1994.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>Bernard de Nonancourt</strong> 在 2010 年去世之前一直塑造着 Laurent-Perrier，他希望一家家族經營的香檳酒莊能夠接管該地產。戈塞在多個層面上符合這一願景。位於 Aÿ 的現有設施早已達到容量極限，而戈塞自 1993/1994 年起一直由 Renaud-Cointreau/Cointreau 家族管理。</p>
</div><p><strong>When the Price of Grapes Matters</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>當葡萄價格重要時</strong></p>
</div><p>From a business perspective, Gosset is unusually candid about one aspect of its operation: roughly 99 percent of its grapes are purchased from outside growers, as the house makes clear during tours of its Épernay facilities. With grape prices ranging between eight and 14 euros per kilogram, that represents a substantial investment at every harvest. Producing a single bottle requires 1.4 kilograms of grapes – meaning annual production demands at least 1.4 million kilograms.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>從商業角度來看，戈塞對其運營的一個方面非常坦誠：大約 99% 的葡萄是從外部種植者那裏購買的，正如酒莊在埃佩爾奈設施的參觀中所明確表示的那樣。葡萄價格在每公斤 8 到 14 歐元之間，這意味着每次收穫都需要進行大量投資。生產一瓶酒需要 1.4 公斤的葡萄——這意味着年產量至少需要 140 萬公斤。</p>
</div><p>The fact that Gosset owns almost no vineyards today is partly a consequence of ownership transitions over the years, during which vineyard holdings were gradually lost. This pattern recurs across Champagne when brands change hands and the focus shifts to land rather than house identity. It is not a flaw – but it changes the task entirely. Quality is no longer built on one's own parcels. It depends on selection, supplier relationships, continuity with grower families, and the ability to construct a recognizable style from purchased fruit.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>戈塞如今幾乎沒有自有葡萄園，這在一定程度上是由於多年來所有權的變遷，期間葡萄園的持有逐漸減少。這種模式在香檳中普遍存在，當品牌易手時，焦點往往轉向土地而非酒莊身份。這並不是缺陷——但這完全改變了任務。質量不再建立在自己的地塊上，而是依賴於選擇、供應商關係、與種植者家庭的持續聯繫，以及從購買的水果中構建可識別風格的能力。</p>
</div><p><em><img src="https://imageproxy.pbkrs.com/https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg" alt="" original-src="https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg"/></em></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><em><img src="https://imageproxy.pbkrs.com/https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg" alt="" original-src="https://www.finews.com/images/news/2026/05/Cei%CC%80lebris_Rosei%CC%80_2009.jpg"/></em></p>
</div><p><em>Dryness and clarity make the Célébris Rosé 2009 a natural companion at the table. (Image: Courtesy)</em></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><em>乾爽和清晰使得 Célébris Rosé 2009 成為餐桌上的自然伴侶。（圖片：提供）</em></p>
</div><p><strong>Two Voices That Define the Style</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>定義風格的兩個聲音</strong></p>
</div><p>At Gosset, this work carries two names. Odilon de Varine leads the house as cellar master and managing director. <strong>Pierre de Caffarelli</strong> has worked alongside him for nearly a year as head of oenology. Following a tour of the Épernay facilities that concluded with a tasting, both spoke in ways that sounded less like marketing copy and more like craft and clear division of roles.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在戈塞，這項工作有兩個名字。Odilon de Varine 擔任酒窖主管和常務董事，<strong>Pierre de Caffarelli</strong> 在過去近一年中擔任釀酒學負責人。經過一次以品酒結束的埃佩爾奈設施參觀後，兩人的發言聽起來更像是工藝和明確的角色分工，而非營銷文案。</p>
</div><p>Odilon's logic was straightforward: at Gosset, the conversation rarely starts with percentage targets. The goal is flavor recognition – the numbers follow from getting the taste right.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Odilon 的邏輯很簡單：在戈塞，討論很少以百分比目標開始。目標是風味識別——數字是從正確的味道中得出的。</p>
</div><p>He was equally clear about what rosé should be: fine, elegant, easy to drink. The color of the rosé is secondary. That is one reason all post-blending tastings take place using black glasses. A consistent flavor profile is the benchmark for the base range rosés.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>他同樣明確玫瑰紅酒應該是什麼：精緻、優雅、易飲。玫瑰紅酒的顏色是次要的。這也是所有後調配品嚐都在黑色酒杯中進行的原因之一。一個一致的風味輪廓是基礎系列玫瑰紅酒的基準。</p>
</div><p>Pierre focused on a point that is frequently underestimated but strongly shapes rosé Champagne's character: Gosset produces rosé as a blend incorporating its own red wine, rather than through the maceration or saignée method. And he added the sentence that is, in some ways, the key to this article: rosé may be fruity – but please, not only fruity.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Pierre 強調了一個常常被低估但強烈塑造玫瑰香檳特徵的點：戈塞的玫瑰紅酒是通過將自家紅酒混合而成，而不是通過浸漬或泵壓法。他補充道，這句話在某種程度上是本文的關鍵：玫瑰紅酒可以是果味的——但請，不僅僅是果味。</p>
</div><p><strong>Why It Exists Only as a Rosé</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>為何僅以玫瑰紅酒的形式存在</strong></p>
</div><p>Gosset releases the Célébris 2009 exclusively as a rosé. No blanc alongside it, no second variant. That is rare – and precisely what makes it interesting. It reflects a deliberate decision: in the best years, to create only what best represents the Gosset style.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>戈塞將 Célébris 2009 僅作為玫瑰紅酒發佈。沒有白酒，也沒有第二種變體。這很少見——正是這使其變得有趣。這反映了一種深思熟慮的決定：在最佳年份，僅創造最能代表戈塞風格的酒。</p>
</div><p>The parameters are straightforward – and yet they explain remarkably well why the Célébris Rosé 2009 shows the way it does in the glass. Seventy percent Chardonnay, 30 percent Pinot Noir, nine percent red wine from Bouzy and Cumières, and a dosage of three grams per liter, placing it firmly in extra brut territory. This architecture keeps the Champagne dry and gives it a clean line – meaning it does not rely on the quick apéritif effect, but genuinely makes sense at the table.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>參數很簡單——然而它們非常清楚地解釋了為何 Célébris Rosé 2009 在酒杯中的表現如此。70% 的霞多麗，30% 的黑比諾，9% 的來自 Bouzy 和 Cumières 的紅酒，以及每升三克的糖分，使其堅定地處於特幹香檳的領域。這種結構保持了香檳的乾爽，並賦予其清晰的線條——這意味着它不依賴於快速開胃的效果，而是真正適合餐桌。</p>
</div><p>On the palate, red fruit takes a back seat to precise contour – one that becomes even more expressive with a few degrees of temperature. Serve it cold but not ice-cold, and it quickly becomes clear that this wine was made for a set table: a place where Champagne is not only meant to refresh, but to carry a dish.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>在口感上，紅果的味道讓位於精確的輪廓——隨着温度的升高，這種輪廓變得更加豐富。冷飲但不冰冷，迅速顯現出這款酒是為設定好的餐桌而釀造的：一個香檳不僅僅是為了提神，而是為了搭配菜餚。</p>
</div><p><strong>Time, Not Oak</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>時間，而非橡木</strong></p>
</div><p>One observation from the tasting is worth highlighting, because it is so often misread. Many people interpret mature Champagne as «oak.» Pierre's formulation was memorable: what some take for oak is often simply time.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>品嚐中有一個觀察值得強調，因為它常常被誤解。許多人將成熟的香檳解讀為 “橡木”。Pierre 的表述令人難忘：一些人認為的橡木往往只是時間。</p>
</div><p><strong>Food: Seafood – and Why Scallops with Coffee Sauce Are a Real Test</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>食物：海鮮——以及為何咖啡醬扇貝是真正的考驗</strong></p>
</div><p>Seafood was named as the natural partner. But the pairing that lingers is scallops with coffee sauce. The combination sounds like contrast – and it is an honest test. If a rosé Champagne can carry that without turning sweet or metallic, while staying clean throughout, it has crossed a threshold: it is no longer «rosé for the moment.» It is wine.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>海鮮被稱為自然搭配。但令人印象深刻的搭配是咖啡醬扇貝。這個組合聽起來像是對比——而且確實是一個誠實的考驗。如果一款玫瑰香檳能夠在不變甜或金屬味的情況下保持乾淨，那麼它就跨越了一個門檻：它不再是 “瞬間的玫瑰”。它是一款酒。</p>
</div><p>Three pairings that work particularly well:</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>三種特別適合的搭配：</p>
</div><p>… Tuna (tataki or tartare): salt, protein, dryness.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 金槍魚（塔塔基或生魚片）：鹽、蛋白質、乾爽。</p>
</div><p>… Poultry with roasted notes: poularde, mushroom, a hint of citrus.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 帶有烤香氣的家禽：雞肉、蘑菇、少許柑橘。</p>
</div><p>… Charcuterie: air-dried, elegantly spiced, not heavy.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 熟肉：風乾、優雅調味、不沉重。</p>
</div><hr/>
<div class="lb-trans"><hr/>
</div><p><strong>Enjoyment Tool</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>享受工具</strong></p>
</div><p>… Temperature: Do not start ice-cold. Around 10 degrees Celsius is where it shows best; a few degrees gained in the glass do it good.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 温度：不要從冰冷開始。大約 10 攝氏度是最佳表現的温度；在酒杯中升高幾度會更好。</p>
</div><p>… Glass: No flute. A tulip glass or a small red wine glass – so it remains wine, not just bubbles.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 酒杯：不要使用香檳杯。使用鬱金香杯或小紅酒杯——這樣它仍然是酒，而不僅僅是氣泡。</p>
</div><p>… Timing: The first glass is the introduction. After a few minutes, it settles and becomes cleaner and clearer.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>… 時機：第一杯是引入。幾分鐘後，它會沉澱，變得更乾淨、更清晰。</p>
</div><p>A note for Switzerland: <strong>Martel Weine</strong> will carry and present the Célébris Rosé 2009 in Switzerland in the fall of 2026.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>瑞士的通知：<strong>Martel Weine</strong> 將在 2026 年秋季在瑞士銷售和展示 Célébris Rosé 2009。</p>
</div><p><strong>Jauch's Conclusion</strong></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><strong>Jauch 的結論</strong></p>
</div><p>The Célébris Rosé 2009 is not a rosé that tries to win on red fruit alone. It works through dryness, clarity, and food. And it is a strong example of what a house like Gosset – sourcing almost everything externally – must deliver: selection, relationships, and consistency in the cellar. Or, to borrow Odilon's logic: the percentages are not the goal. They are the result of getting the flavor right.</p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p>Célébris Rosé 2009 並不是僅僅依靠紅色水果來取勝的玫瑰酒。它通過乾爽、清晰和與食物的搭配來發揮作用。這是像 Gosset 這樣的酒莊必須提供的強有力的例證——幾乎所有東西都來自外部：選擇、關係和酒窖中的一致性。或者，借用 Odilon 的邏輯：百分比不是目標，而是獲得正確風味的結果。</p>
</div><hr/>
<div class="lb-trans"><hr/>
</div><p><em>«Jauch's Selection»: The biweekly finews column in which <strong>Peter Jauch</strong> precisely classifies Champagne and other fine beverages and supplements them with practical service advice.</em></p>
<div class="lb-trans"><p><em>«Jauch 的選擇»：每兩週一次的 finews 專欄，<strong>Peter Jauch</strong> 精確分類香檳和其他優質飲品，並補充實用的服務建議。</em></p>
</div>

喬赫的選擇：一款為餐桌而打造的玫瑰紅葡萄酒